Ady1 | 24/11/2017 08:50:35 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | This started as an acorn and is turning into a major work in progress, I don't like milling btw and have no milling machine aspirations but, sometimes we will have no choice in a project sooo... Originally I welded some metal onto the bottom to try and improve things but that only highlighted a milling slides inadequacies So I ground it off and went for a full wrap The only damage to the slide is two 6mm holes in the base and two 8mm holes in the upper part of the back of the slide, no other harm was inflicted and the slide can be removed The t-nuts are ski-nuts to make it easier to fit All welding was done in situ so the fit is great There are holes in the upper body so a hex key can reach down to the bolts B+Q fencing provided the angle iron, 30mm mostly The bottom swivelling part of the slide has been removed You can see all my pictures in here
Edited By Ady1 on 24/11/2017 08:54:02 |
Ady1 | 24/11/2017 09:02:37 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | So is it any good? Well yes and no, it's obviously an improvement but now the vice is moving minutely instead of the slide So I'm making a dedicated 4 point vice now, just for the slide, which will take me a while All it's really done is move the eternal lathe milling problem somewhere else So as I say, it's currently a WIP
Other points to note at the minit The envelope is small, I would guess at 2-3 inches, that myford cross slide extension mod will be essential I lost about 15mm in the vertical by removing the base to bring the bottom of the slide hard up against the cross slide with that 12mm bar Edit: I'd also like to submit this item as my entry for the John Stevenson guffy welding award Edited By Ady1 on 24/11/2017 09:14:52 |
Hopper | 24/11/2017 11:46:54 |
![]() 7881 forum posts 397 photos | Blimey, that's given the dancing vertical slide a good seeing to. It wouldn't dare get out of step now. Every time I use mine I swear to bolt the bottom of the vertical part directly to the cross slide. Never thought of the full orthopedic frame though. Certainly looks stout! |
Neil Wyatt | 24/11/2017 15:46:59 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Posted by Ady1 on 24/11/2017 09:02:37:
Edit: I'd also like to submit this item as my entry for the John Stevenson guffy welding award
John and I discovered the RABA-WIWIT, so you can have this month's virtual RABA_WIWIT Award: |
Eric Arthrell | 24/11/2017 17:19:23 |
47 forum posts 19 photos | Sorry Andy1 but I don't like it . To weld in situ can cause stress related movement which can effect more delicate parts .Weld spatter can stick on slides , bad earth can track and trash motor and switches Cast iron can and will snap/crack quite easily under stress I would make it off the job clean it up and fit to the job. Sorry to be negative Eric |
Ady1 | 24/11/2017 23:33:56 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | That's OK Eric, I described it badly too There was half a dozen tack welds on the lathe itself then the entire cross slide assembly was removed and taken to my welding and fabricating bit in the garage for the bulk of the work |
Chris Trice | 25/11/2017 00:48:46 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | I'm curious why you needed to make this. Traditionally you lock all the slides not in use which usually stiffens everything up.
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Eric Arthrell | 25/11/2017 06:53:32 |
47 forum posts 19 photos | Andy1 you might find this site use full, I use it a lot. "http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/". Regards Eric |
Ady1 | 25/11/2017 07:14:18 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | I'm curious why you needed to make this. Traditionally you lock all the slides not in use which usually stiffens everything up. Doesn't really work for many hobby lathes without a lot of effort to sort out tiny unwanted movements which can wreck a workpiece, especially for steel This is an attempt to find a one shot solution to simplify milling on a lathe |
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