Doing all the mechanics before stripping, refurbishing and Painting
Joseph Noci 1 | 02/04/2017 17:05:38 |
1323 forum posts 1431 photos | I previous posts I showed the Electronic leadscrew setup I developed for my V10P. My aim is now is to add decent swarf/splash guards to the V10 and my milling machines, and then strip the lathe down completely, re-paint, fit new carriage leadscrew/nut, new headstock bearings, and the reassemble like new! Ditto the FB2 Mill - redo the wiring and fit new X and Y leadscrews and nuts. These pics show the development of the Splash guards - decently sized, from 2mm Aluminium. The lathe is also fitted with a sliding, flip up Acrylic Operator guard. A mix of Plywood and Ali templates were used to develop the shapes.. The lack of a Guillotine meant using a Plasma cutter, and a Radial arm saw..
Plasma Cutting the bigger pieces - no Guillotine... The plasma Cutter: Works well, But I do have a Box&Pan folder.. Aluminium Plates appearing
The lathe done, with flip down shield Flip down shield from the front, slid to the right slightly Oblique view
From left side - shows the drop side panel in raised position
drop side down to clear chuck key
Integral chuck key holder
Milling Machines next..
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Joseph Noci 1 | 02/04/2017 17:14:33 |
1323 forum posts 1431 photos | And now the mills.. They are both FB2 EMCO mills, the one is however fitted with a British Mill head MT3. 3 phase , via a VFD. The two Mills are placed back-to-back, with a common splash guard in between. here is the trial fit. And here the final fit, with some swarf!
And a view from above of the Standard FB2 Mill.
Now we strip and start cleaning, sanding, scraping, and finally painting the lathe and all the cabinets and swarf guards! I will try to take some decent photos when all done - this bright shiny aluminium does not photograph well! To many reflections.
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Lukas M | 31/05/2021 13:09:33 |
1 forum posts | Hello Joseph,
Brilliant design you came up with here! The open back of my V10 faces right into my shop as I don't have room on the walls, so the chips and oil get flung everywhere and make a huge mess that takes forever to clean up.
Do you happen to have any drawings for the chip tray you built? It's better than anything I would come up with on my own, so I'd love to follow your lead, as would other Maximat enthusiasts around the world for sure.
Cheers from Austria! Lukas |
old mart | 01/06/2021 18:22:57 |
4655 forum posts 304 photos | That leadscrew on the lathe could do with some protection. |
Kiwi Bloke | 02/06/2021 06:39:05 |
912 forum posts 3 photos | As usual, the quantity and quality of your work makes me feel inadequate... Just out of interest, why alloy, not steel? |
Nick Wheeler | 02/06/2021 09:35:20 |
1227 forum posts 101 photos | Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 02/06/2021 06:39:05:
As usual, the quantity and quality of your work makes me feel inadequate... Just out of interest, why alloy, not steel? Easier to bend, lighter, and doesn't need finishing would be my reasons |
Joseph Noci 1 | 02/06/2021 10:01:13 |
1323 forum posts 1431 photos | Goodness, those posts of mine are already 3 years old - downright frightening how time just flies. Somewhere on this forum I did post the finished goods - all gets lost in time, so briefly again...
some replies to the comments: Old Mart: That leadscrew on the lathe could do with some protection. Many folk have complained that It seems I never use the machines - there is never any swarf in evidence...So most know I am sort of an*l about keeping the machine and area clean...any swarf on the lead screw is blasted off with the compressed air-gun before a traverse, each time, with a squirt of oil every other time...And those covers steal Z feed space near the chuck on the V10.. Lukas M : Lukas, by chip tray I presume you mean the tray the lathe is standing in/on? That is part of the stand that I got with the lathe when I purchased it, so no drawings I fear. I can measure it up for you if you want. It is 6mm sheet steel, lips bent up abt 45deg, each lip abt 45mm long. There is a 150x40x8mm U channel under which forms the stand's backbone. The channel is tack welded along the contact points with the tray underside. Ondet each lathe bed foot is 150mmx150mmx20mm steel block, welded to the tray. It appears that the surface of those blocks were then machined flat and co-planar - the bed sits on that with bolts through into the blocks. Kiwi Bloke Thanks for the kind words - but I am just having fun.. sheet steel if not easily worked with my machines and tools - the bending brake can only do 1.5mm steel, and that is a bit floppy for say the rear panel on the lathe, or for the side covers on the mills - so I would have to fold lips all over, etc - more work! And if I could do 2mm steel, its is so heavy to manipulate, cannot cut with the radial arm saw, etc...I would love a guillotine, and managed to almost succumb to one a half dozen times, but I have no more space in the shops... Thanks Chaps! Joe
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Ady1 | 02/06/2021 10:11:01 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | Perhaps a different design would make life easier in the long run working life but is more difficult to implement Slant bed type lathes and mills, let gravity do the work |
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