Soft soldering a 71/4 g Bagnall saddle tank in brass
Clive Mowatt | 26/12/2016 12:45:37 |
2 forum posts | hi. Got all the brass component ready to solder. What is the best solder and flux and how is best to heat it up without causing distortion? Cheers CAM
|
Neil Wyatt | 26/12/2016 15:04:23 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Hello Clive, It depends... if these are decorative parts, use soft solder with a suitable flux, if they are 'working bits' use a silver solder. Brass tends not to distort much because it conducts heat very well and heats evenly. Neil |
JasonB | 26/12/2016 15:09:54 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | For tanks and tenders I like to "tin" both mating surfaces first, that is to apply a thin layer of solder to each. Then when it comes to assembly you just need to apply some flux and heat then the two will join, adding a bit of solder if needed. Unlike Neil I find that silversoldering to large sheets of brass will cause it to buckle and distort so gentle heat and soft solder, solder with lead in it is usually better and a paste flux. |
Nick Hulme | 27/12/2016 12:36:53 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | For soft soldering I tin the required areas with solder paste. The paste is painted onto the required areas, gently heated with a blowlamp and wiped off with a damp cloth leaving tinned surfaces and a clean job. - Nick |
Clive Mowatt | 02/01/2017 10:40:28 |
2 forum posts | Gentlemen. Thanks for your helpful advice. Clive |
Arny | 11/10/2019 14:16:59 |
3 forum posts | Hi Guys First time poster long time lurker. Not sure that I am posting this in the correct area so bare with me. If it needs transferring to a more appropriate place in the forum feel free to move it along. I am from Brisbane Australia and I am trying to help a good friend to get his 7.25" Bagnall with Bagnall-Price valve gear running. It has been built using M.J.Eng drawings and used the build series from the Engineering in Miniature magazine. Unfortunately we are having all sorts of problems getting the timing right. It will run on air & steam in forward gear but not in reverse it just locks up.My friend is not tech savvy so it fallen to me to help him find a solution. I have used Docksteader's Mark 1 “Bagnall-Price Outside Admission valve gear and the modified Mark 2 dimensional changes noted on the M.J.Engineering web site. Neither have been successful. In order to prove Docksteader configuration I have used AutoCad to plot in 5 degree increments the changes of the valve motion before and after maximum forward and reverse gear at 0 deg and 180 deg. I can make it work in Forward gear but not in Reverse and similar problems occur when favouring the Revese gear (which occurs under air and steam). I just hope that someone has built the 7.25” Bagnall with Bagnall-Price valve gear and had it run successfully I would dearly love to get in touch and find out the actual dimensions, angles, settings etc. Please spread the word. Thanks in anticipation. Kind Regards.......Nuzbraggs |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.