derek blake | 13/10/2014 19:31:35 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Evening all. Please can someone help me, I'm pulling my hair out trying to learn and understand traction engine's. I have drawings for the pipework but I really don't understand it, the check valves have bigger size union nuts than the rest of the fittings, do you still use the same size pipework but use a bigger union nut? It says to put a pipe from the check valve to the injector but from what I can see the injector is 1/4 by 40tpi not the bigger size of the check valve fitting. I know these are stupid questions but once I understand I will be fine..does anyone have any photos of how the setup goes? Not a drawing but some actual photos of the engine plumbing?
Any help gratefully received. DEREK |
derek blake | 13/10/2014 19:54:01 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Do I just need to find a 90degree check valve which has the correct size thread and takes the same size pipe as with the rest of the piping?
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JasonB | 14/10/2014 07:45:12 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | I would go by the pipe diameters shown and make a nipple or nut to suit if its not a standard size thread for the pipe size. Its possible that the injector and maybe also the clack are commercial items that may have a different thread to whats shown on the drawings. Its also quite common to have more than one pipe size on an engine depending on what its being used for.
J |
derek blake | 14/10/2014 09:18:26 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Thanks J looks like from the drawing its all the same size pipework, i have brought a 90 degree check valve which has the correct thread for the boiler insert, and the correct size pipe nipple and union nut. so i think i have worked it out. (hopefully) |
derek blake | 16/10/2014 22:09:29 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | I've had a quote of £460 to machine my full gear set, I'm restoring a 2 inch ruston proctor. Is this a good price? I'm happy to pay it as I understand the work and time involved, but if anyone knows of any other prices or persons who could do it for me please could you let me know before I sign on the dotted line.
Thanks everyone |
JasonB | 17/10/2014 07:05:22 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Is that full machining or just cutting the teeth on your machined blanks? I did all the turning on my 2" Fowler and then just had the teeth cut which worked out better, also on the smaller gears it is possible to buy commercial ones and just modify to suit, did four of mine that way.
J |
derek blake | 17/10/2014 08:00:25 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Sadly it would be a full machine, I have no blanks either |
JasonB | 17/10/2014 08:09:09 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Fair price then.
J |
derek blake | 17/10/2014 16:38:34 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | I managed to get a gear set for £175 today, all teeth cut but still have machining that needs doing to them like the square hole and the spoke shapes cut. probably cost me more to get that machined than the parts themselfs |
derek blake | 09/11/2014 21:03:57 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Could anyone advise on ready made safety valves that could be fitted to my engine? I've hand made engine parts but don't want to tackle safety valves. The engine is a 2 inch scale ruston proctor, and around 24 inches long. Thanks in advance. |
derek blake | 29/11/2014 19:16:26 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Any ideas on ready made safety valves?
Regards Derek |
JasonB | 29/11/2014 20:00:52 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Bruce engineering and Blackgates both do valves that could screw into a threaded cover to the regulator chest, won't look quite right but will save you having to make them. As to what size you will need thats a different matter Edited By JasonB on 29/11/2014 20:01:11 |
derek blake | 29/11/2014 21:11:48 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Thanks for the response, I have found the fitting size but was concerned on the pressure they would blow at. Not sure how you work out what that should be, Regards Derek
|
Paul Lousick | 30/11/2014 01:13:24 |
2276 forum posts 801 photos | Hi Derek, The pressure relief valves should be set at the maximum working pressure of the boiler. They can be set lower but should not exceed the working pressure. The Australian code only allows 100 psi. I think it is higher in the UK. You need to check your boiler code or ask your boiler inspector. Paul. |
JasonB | 30/11/2014 07:43:40 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | The other factor that you need to think about as well as pressure is the volume of steam they need to allow out. No good fitting a small valve if it will not let the steam out faster than it is being made. For the steam test the valve needs to open at the working pressure and then not let it rise more than 10%. Best to fit a slightly larger one or two are somethines seen on traction engines as they look a bit more like the Ramsbottom type safety valves. |
derek blake | 30/11/2014 08:58:46 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Thanks for your help, I have found two on a website. Going to email the shop to check realise pressure settings. Maybe even send a drawing to there engineer to be safe, last thing I want is to get this bit wrong.
Derek |
derek blake | 30/11/2014 09:16:40 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | |
derek blake | 04/12/2014 20:37:10 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Would two of these be safe? There the correct fitting. Regards Derek |
JasonB | 04/12/2014 20:56:05 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | They are the right type but don't know what pressure the go off at or how much steam they will allow through so can't say if they will do |
derek blake | 04/12/2014 21:15:35 |
586 forum posts 151 photos | Good points, if my engine runs on 85psi should they be set below that? I could ask them to set them if there adjustable. |
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