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Rust and how to remove it.

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Terryd13/09/2011 21:22:56
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Hi Neil,
 
The chemistry was ok but the application???????
 
 
Regards
 
Terry
londonben1015/09/2011 22:57:35
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It's an honour to be a model engineer 'Tea Boy' then.
 
 
 
Terryd15/09/2011 23:09:00
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1946 forum posts
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Hi,
 
I suppose if you must use acids, tannic from tea is as good as any, but I get my conc hydrochloric from a local supplier for about £3.00 Per 5 Litre ( also use citric for pickling copper - clean and cheap). Lasts a long time, dunno how many teabags that equates to. But I'm sure it's cheaper in the long run - no teapots to buy for one thing .
 
I must admit that I'm moving to electrolytic methods myself. Keep the teabags for refreshment.  And as for Coca cola, the active ingredient is phosphoric acid and that is as cheap as chips, much cheaper than even cheap Coke clones.  Drink and enjoy the coke and buy the (cheap and cheerful) phosphoric acid for de-rusting. Look for and find friendly local chemical suppliers.
 
Better still go for electrolytic method, after lots of experimentation I am and I have a lot of de-rusting to do following my garage fire.
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 15/09/2011 23:16:04

londonben1016/09/2011 04:30:42
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Sound advice Terry.

I was thinking of using a 12v hornby power supply in an electrolytic setup, as I have a couple to hand - I didn't want to risk eroding some of the lbsc design live steam parts I aquired. Most likely they have been in someone's shed for many decades, and have survived well, though they need to be replenished, identified and made into locomotives, either by me as a first live steam project, or perhaps if someone else had a need for that particular part?

Regards,

Ben
Terryd16/09/2011 11:49:42
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1946 forum posts
179 photos
Hi All,
 
As many of you know, last year I suffered a garage fire which destroyed my workshop area along with tools , materials and projects lost. I actually managed to salvage quite a bit of stuff but it was badly rusted. I have now started to really make a move on setting up my facilities again and much of that involves removing heavy rust deposits.
 
I have never used Hydrochloric (hcl) acid for de rusting before the suggestion by John Stevenson. Previously I have only used gentle solutions such as 'restore' but I decided to try John's suggestion as I have a supply of hcl and the results have been astounding turning what looked like vague lumps of rust into usable items.
 
As an example I have a photograph of a centre pundh that I made from some silver steel I managed to save. Along with the punch is an example of the rusted silver steel and a piece which came straight out of the hcl followed by had a wash and brush up (it is a different diameter btw).
 
As an aside I quenched the red hot punch in motor oil to harden (cherry red) and then polished the end to allow me to temper to mid straw on a heated plate. The interesting bit is that I was always led to believe that the oil should be used motor oil and as dirty as possible. However I had no used oil so I used semi synthetic Halfords oil and achieved the best deepest black I have ever managed!
 

I will post some other results that I have acheived by reclaiming stuff.

Regards

Terry

PS the punch has been used successfully
londonben1002/04/2012 15:06:58
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Hi All,

Sorry to ressurect this thread from last year, but regarding the mass of G scale 45mm gauge LGB Brass Railway Track I have (as mentioned above).

I didn't do the electrolysis in the end, but found a soft metal polishing kit on eBay, so I made this six minute video of the whole process on youtube - please forgive me for the simplistic terms in the video, but just in case anyone is looking to restore track, I have found this to be effective, and safe with no scratches to the track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3QX-e1YZJ0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3QX-e1YZJ0

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By londonben10 on 02/04/2012 15:07:40

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