Eric Lougheed | 26/10/2011 23:13:27 |
23 forum posts | Juat to throw in a little confusion, I was much impressed with: http://www.youtube.com/watch?src_vid=QbRPPxyw1hw&v=_pDitJb7z-M&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_667648
But I haven't found the gauge this sid eof the duck pond!
Eric Lougheed
|
alan frost | 27/10/2011 01:46:37 |
137 forum posts 3 photos | This is a long thread which I think I have read all of but if not sorry for repeat. Guy Lautard's Bedside Reader (That's the 1st one and not cheap ) has a jig for grinding small drills ( 1/8 inch to number 60 ) which he improved from an article in ME (Oct 25th 1934 page 397 by Inchometer ,if I remember correctly , Ahem).
Have n't tried it or made one but skimming through it I don't see why it would n't work down to number 80 drills (0.35mm ) given a magnifying glass
Obviously uses fine abrasive paper or an oilstone-I imagine for anything below about 3 mm grinding wheels are out.
My guess is its pretty similar to the jig in Howard Jones post (page 2 ,this thread ) |
Andrew Johnston | 27/10/2011 11:52:10 |
![]() 7061 forum posts 719 photos | Posted by chris stephens on 26/10/2011 19:16:59: J&L catalogue a 3mm Guhring cobalt drill (the best quality drills I have come across) £2.95 +VAT. Dormer TiN coated HSS A002 (£0.75 +VAT which is slightly cheaper than Greenwood) just do not compare! Dormer's A777 Cobalt drills are 60p cheaper than Guhring, but I like to buy the best when I can afford it, which unfortunately isn't as often as I would like ![]() Oeeeer, I use Dormer A002 drills for my normal drilling in metric sizes. So far I've been very pleased with them. May be I'm stuck in a rut though. Chris: I'd be interested to know in what area(s) the Dormer drills do not compare with Guhring. If the extra cost is justified economically it might be worth buying selected drills that I commonly use; mainly metric tapping and clearance sizes. Regards, Andrew |
chris stephens | 27/10/2011 15:28:56 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos |
Hi Andrew,
First off, Dormer HSS drills do work quite well (and are noticeably beater than common or garden blue cheapies) in ordinary situations like drilling mild steel, but I much prefer to work with Stainless, as I never liked the idea of spending hours making something only for it to start rusting.
You can tell the difference, using a decent Cobalt drill, when drilling work hardening materials such as stainless or Titanium. To my mind Guhring drills are beautifully made and their all ground finish just feels "right" and sharp!
I would expect that Dormer's cobalt drill is broadly similar to Guhring's cobalt, but at the top end of the market I feel that price still denotes quality, so i buy the "best".
I have many hundreds of HSS drills in various sets but when one is used regularly or is lost or broken, and i can afford to, I replace with cobalt . The price of some of these drills is the reason I like to be able to sharpen them, which brings us neatly back to the point of this thread.
To sum up, if you are happy and content with you drills there is no need to spend extra money but if you feel that they are blunting quicker than you think they should, it might be worth investigating an alternative.
chriStephens
EDIT I just noticed that even Greenwood say the Guhring drills are,"NOT JUST YOUR AVERAGE COBALT DRILLS..." I would agree, but you have to make your own mind up.
Edited By chris stephens on 27/10/2011 15:33:39 |
DMB | 27/10/2011 22:14:17 |
1585 forum posts 1 photos | Hi all,
As a matter of interest, where are Guhring brand drills made? Anyone know?
John |
Andrew Johnston | 27/10/2011 22:52:57 |
![]() 7061 forum posts 719 photos | I think the company is German, but they are multi-national, so who knows where the drills are actually made. Probably in several worldwide locations. Have a look at this thread, for an interesting discussion of the brand: Regards, Andrew |
chris stephens | 28/10/2011 00:24:16 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Oh dear,oh dear, how the mighty have fallen.
![]() ![]() christephens
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Andrew Johnston | 28/10/2011 08:59:27 |
![]() 7061 forum posts 719 photos | Chris, Thanks for the exposition. Funny that you should mention stainless steel. The only problem I have had with the Dormer drills is in stainless (316). I've blunted a few drills by pussyfooting around with the feedrate. If I need to drill more than the odd hole or two in stainless steel I tend to buy a specialist drill from my local tool supplier. I've just looked at the last one I bought (6.2mm) and guess what, it's a Guhring! It worked fine, so the practicalmachinist thread notwithstanding I shall to continue to buy them as needed. Regards, Andrew |
Martin Peck | 11/09/2012 14:08:13 |
![]() 20 forum posts | Hi John, I actually own a drill doctor 500x and have had good results from it, but only on drills above 3mm up to 13mm. There is a learning curve, as with any new tool, but it is quite short. This machine is an improvement over the earlier machines which apparently were difficult to set up. The only problem I have had so far is setting up to sharpen a split point drill (Dormer A002). I've found you need to use the increased back off angle setting to compensate for the part removed when creating the split point. At this setting the split section does not line up with the grinding wheel to renew the split point. For standard drills it works fine! |
Raymond Anderson | 11/09/2012 17:45:24 |
![]() 785 forum posts 152 photos | Andrew, yes you are correct GUHRING are a German company. I have a lot of their drill bits and their HSCo end mills, great gear. Chris, have you ever tried WalterTitex Drills? I would put them above even GUHRING although they are even more expensive, again Walter are a German company . so Guhring or Titex , both top notch gear with price tags to match. either or does me. |
chris stephens | 11/09/2012 20:47:01 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Hi Raymond, Now you come to mention it, I do have a few Titex drills about somewhere but I have not used them enough to comment, but thanks for the tip. chriStephens |
Siddley | 19/11/2012 13:04:51 |
![]() 150 forum posts 1 photos |
Hello all, my first post here ( doesn't seem to be an area for new member introductions, so this is it Is there any consensus about drill sharpening methods ? I'm lucky as regards smaller drills, having bought a huge collection in 0.1mm increments from the estate of a deceased model engineer ( a bit of a sad way to get them really ) Drills over about 6mm however are going to become a problem soon as I now live in a rural area of Spain and quality drill bits are VERY expensive ( as is anything engineering related )
While I can sharpen a drill freehand the resulting hole is unlikely to bear any resemblance to the size stamped on the shank. Sometimes it doesn't even resemble a hole I'm thinking of upgrading my grinding rest to controlled feed and building the four facet jig described in MEW 142 - does that sound like a good plan ? |
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