John Coates | 09/10/2011 19:52:39 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | The hole was 8mm dia in 30mm bar for a length of 75mm
David: I've got the George Thomas book so will fetch a glass of malt and give it a good peruse
Mick: I think for cylinder no.2 I will try drilling from opposite ends to meet in the middle and see what that results in
Nick: so what runout should I be aiming for on a 30mm cylinder with finished faces (i.e. not rough BMS)?
Cheers all for the help and information |
mick H | 09/10/2011 20:00:43 |
795 forum posts 34 photos | John .....I think I could guarantee a run out, drilling a hole of those dimensions from end to end on my set up!
If it is for a cylinder bore, have you considered boring it......although you would need a pretty slender boring bar....but accuracy would be almost guaranteed.
|
John Coates | 09/10/2011 20:05:20 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | It is for a central hole through a cylindrical parallel (as per Harold Hall in his MEW series and Lathework a Complete Course WPS book) so it can be secured into a t-nut to set a workpiece true on a milling table |
Nicholas Farr | 09/10/2011 20:24:29 |
![]() 3988 forum posts 1799 photos | Hi John, the most important thing about you cylinder is that the outside is as parallel as possible and that the faces are truly square at each end, the hole will need to have no more than 50% absolute max run out from one end to the other of the clearance size of the bolt you will be using, therefore the bigger your clearance hole for you bolt, the more run out is permissible. It will not need to be exactly central to the outside of the cylinder though.
Regards Nick. |
Chris Trice | 09/10/2011 23:13:45 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | It's worth considering a set of split point drills. They're more or less self centring and tend to stay on line. If true running is critical, drilling undersize and then boring gives the best results. |
Terryd | 10/10/2011 05:21:41 |
![]() 1946 forum posts 179 photos | Posted by KWIL on 27/01/2010 09:18:33: Mark, I for one would not buy a chuck of that origin. Hi mark, a bit late on this thread but as regards Chinese chucks, I have found them to be excellent. When first using my latest, I chucked up an old project which needed some more turning and then checked with a dial indicator and to my amazement it was true to less that 0.02 mm (0.0008"). I was expecting to have to use a 4 jaw but it was not necessary with that sort of accuracy . As to fitting any chuck to a lathe, you have to turn up a suitable faceplate on the lathe you are to mount the chuck, no matter which one you choose. It is the backplate which is effectively the interface between the chuck and the lathe. Regards and enjoy the journey which is model engineering, Terry |
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