JasonB | 12/12/2018 17:39:00 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Posted by Terry Kirkup on 12/12/2018 16:53:09:
Jason, if you can swing the heavy end away from the wall does that mean nothing is bolted down in your setup? I glanced at the covered holes in the pedestals and wondered how on earth I'd get easy rawl type fixings in there. Mine is not fixed to the (wooden) floor. If you want to fix it down then loose nut type Rawl fixings rather than loose bolt or drop a couple of thro-bolts into the holes first, stand the cabinets on top and you Should be able to get nuts onto the ends of the fixings. I have a feeling the newer open shelf stands are a slightly different size to the old curved panel type which is where your sizes may have gone wrong. Also worth putting a bead of silicon around the fixings that hold the lathe to the stand, this will stop any oil from dripping through the tray and filling the cabinet, though it does keep the rust off what's inside. |
Terry Kirkup | 15/12/2018 12:25:45 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Hello again Gents (and Ladies if there are any?). I managed to retrieve the manual and test paperwork from the bottom of the coffin yesterday, still preparing the base for the 290V so can't lift it out yet. However, on reading said manual there are several discrepancies which hit me immediately and have me slightly worried. Take a look. First is from the included Warco manual:- And this from their web site - obviously the one that persuaded me to go for the 290:- There are some BIG and worrying differences here in taper sizes, travel, swing, spindle bore etc.. Can anyone put my mind at rest before I do take it out of the crate in case it needs to go back? Edited By Terry Kirkup on 15/12/2018 12:27:07 Edited By Terry Kirkup on 15/12/2018 12:27:59 |
JasonB | 15/12/2018 12:34:28 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | have you had a look up the bore, expect it is 38mm and that needs MT5. My 280 manual says I have a MT2 tailstock but it is MT3 |
Terry Kirkup | 15/12/2018 12:46:58 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Ta for that Jason, I hope you are right. I'll try and get the lid off again later today and take a looksee. I've already bought a few MT3 bits for it and the 38mm spindle bore was THE big attraction for me. |
Tony Pratt 1 | 15/12/2018 13:15:59 |
2319 forum posts 13 photos | I'm looking to get a 290 so am following this thread with great interest! Tony |
Howard Lewis | 15/12/2018 14:23:29 |
7227 forum posts 21 photos | The 290V is quoted as weighing 210Kg, and the 290 as 230 Kg. A larger mandrel, and probably bigger roller bearings, may explain the difference. If it has a 5MT mandrel, I hope that a 5MT- 3MT reducer comes as part of the package. Similarly, if it does turn out to be a 4MT, a reducing sleeve will be needed at some stage. Either way, a 1.5Kw motor will provide lots of power. Possibly more than you really need. At my request, a 1.5 hp motor was fitted (as part of the 3 phase VFD pre delivery conversion) rather than a 2 hp, and a cut of 0.100" on steel, does not seem to slow it. Either way, it should be a useful machine. Howard |
Terry Kirkup | 15/12/2018 16:31:19 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Tony Pratt, I'm going to have to make you wait until tomorrow to discover which spec is right! I've just finished joining, levelling and fixing down the 6-piece base unit (a chore without a perfectly flat floor) so I'd rather not have to send mine back, but still having the 'flu I'm knackered now so need a rest to get the crate opened again. This may sound funny but I sleep better with the lid nailed shut in the garage and won't feel safe until it's safely ensconced up the garden path! Edited By Terry Kirkup on 15/12/2018 16:33:33 |
Terry Kirkup | 16/12/2018 12:18:07 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | So, just been back in the box. Tony it's good news! There is indeed a gaping hole through the chuck just as the web version of the description claims, it swallows a 36mm fork leg. I'm now trying to shrink the thing for the lift to the shed. Got the chuck, tailstock, follow rest and steady rest off so only the compound slide to go. Don't want to attempt loosening anything else as there are scary DRO cables and stuff everywhere. If I was giving a layman's visual assessment of the whole thing I'd have to say it looks stunning. In order to get it through two 2'9" doors with a big lad at each corner I'm going to have to remove the backplate too but that should lose a few more kilos. Just a note here - I got a cheap Stanley laser level to finish setting up the stand and what a boon that thing is. Back to work! Edited By Terry Kirkup on 16/12/2018 12:19:38 |
Terry Kirkup | 16/12/2018 22:53:04 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Well, it's in. Took five of us 75 minutes of hard graft this evening. Now the real newbie questions will start flying in to you wise old heads. If I can shake free of babysitting duties later tomorrow I'll see if I can check the bed for twist. It'll be a miracle if there's none at all as the floor of the crate was barely supported by the pallet below right at back left corner where the leftmost fixing hole is and the crate floor (20mm ply or blockboard) was visibly bowed at that end (headstock) when I took the end panels off it. Edited By Terry Kirkup on 16/12/2018 22:57:09 |
Terry Kirkup | 17/12/2018 20:09:48 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Now slowly doing little bits to get nearer startup time. I did a quick test using Rollie's Dad's Method as far as I understood it. Doesn't look too far out at first attempt. Before that I stuck a 2 foot length of 40mm steel tube in the chuck and entered the tailstock spindle into the other end of it and just by eye it seemed to run fairly concentrically at the tail as I turned the chuck. I still haven't tightened the lathe to stand bolts until more twist tests are done. However, to continue the cleaning process I need help to get the top slide off! I wound it back until its screw reached the end of the block it runs in (could see it and feel it reach to just below flush) but then it stopped and the handle got VERY tight, so I didn't want to rotate it any further. I think I'm stuck as I can't see anything in the way looking at the parts list. HELP!!! |
JasonB | 17/12/2018 20:15:26 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Take the handle off then dial and then unscrew the two screws either side of the bracket and you should be able to slide it off. |
Terry Kirkup | 17/12/2018 20:37:33 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Ah, okydoke thank you again Jason. I've had to retreat back to the house now so will give that a go tomorrow. |
Bazyle | 17/12/2018 20:52:39 |
![]() 6956 forum posts 229 photos | Don't you have a manual with an exploded view? You might want to get one before taking too much apart. If all else fails the Grizzly 0602 looks similar, and sometimes Chester equivalent manuals are on line. You can be planning your next disassembly on the computer. |
Terry Kirkup | 17/12/2018 20:57:17 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Hi Bazyle, thanks for your input. Yes, been looking at the exploded parts diagram but the only thing I see interfering with straightforward removal is the steel threaded block (aka rectangular T-nut) that its leadscrew runs in, once the gib screws are loose. Will hopefully find out for sure tomorrow. |
JasonB | 18/12/2018 07:03:13 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | You can't run it all the way forwards as the bracket that the handle runs in hits the lower part so can't simply wind it off.
EDIT. I just remembered that I took it off to show someone else how to do it, handle can remain in place, just undo the two bracket screws and then you can slide it all the way off.
Edited By JasonB on 18/12/2018 07:58:22 |
Terry Kirkup | 19/12/2018 15:18:13 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Great. Thank you Jason, got it stripped now. Apart from cleaning underneath the top slide I also wanted to see what holds the standard toolpost down - now I know. Edited By Terry Kirkup on 19/12/2018 15:19:49 |
JasonB | 19/12/2018 16:19:20 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | You can knock the central bolt out, measure it then pop back in while you make another. Really depends on whether the central boss needs altering.
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Terry Kirkup | 19/12/2018 16:22:23 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Super, thank you Jason. That bit doesn't look too daunting! If I tap the top of the bolt does it bring out the little roll pin underneath with it? I see something that looks like it on your pic. |
Terry Kirkup | 21/12/2018 20:21:13 |
![]() 108 forum posts 82 photos | Well, I was a brave boy today. Got most of the reachable gunge off the 290's bed, ways and slides and oiled them with the stuff that Warco sells, the gears done with 3 in1 white Lithium spray. I stuck a 2 foot length of chromed steel roller (dunno where I got it) in the chuck, completely unsupported, to do another twist/parallel test and there was hardly a flicker on the dial either a few inches from the headstock or just shy of the tailstock centre so I reckon I got the base pedestals pretty well aligned. Next step, give it some electricery after sticking a short piece of iron in the chuck. That's when I hit a problem. The DRO lit up nicely and zeroed/shifted with X and Y movement as it should. However when I tried to fire up the motor I got nothing. Now I've twice removed the gear cover - once to transport it to the shed and again to grease the gears. Both times I had an awful job refitting it and now I know what caused the issue. The horrible little forked blade thing attached to the cover is supposed to engage into a slot in the motor interlock switch thingy but it was dangling loose on all four m3 fixings so wouldn't engage properly. It's impossible to position it accurately so I got lucky with a guesstimate and at last I had motion. A momentous occasion for me. I got real scared at 2000 rpm and eased it back down to 60. It did seem eerily quiet whizzing away like that. Obviously I couldn't wait any longer to make my first incision so I hunted for the 60-30 degree indexable 8mm tool an old engineer gifted me and tried to set it in the toolpost. Of course it was way too far below centre so I spent the next ten or more minutes searching for some packing pieces. None to be found as I'm really not geared up yet. So it was that in utter frustration I headed for the PC and immediately ordered a QCTP from ArcEuroTrade - and it was in stock! Now I just have to hope the ARC reindeer aren't too slow before the family descends for Krizzy! Prepare for some very newbie-type questions about the EASIEST way to fit the BXA toolpost. |
Bazyle | 21/12/2018 22:04:21 |
![]() 6956 forum posts 229 photos | Looking at a BXA toolholder (Shars 201) dimensions it gives the thickness of the base as 1/2 in so you could use an half inch HSS tool 'cos you can grind the top down a bit. An insert holder might be a problem though. However a different drawing (Shars 202) facing holder has a bigger slot so a little thinner base giving an extra 1/8in. So you need to look carefully at the dimensions of whatever you do get. I got sold a Myford sized for my Boxford so I had to shim the post up a bit but has the advantage that the holders are cheaper. |
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