Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start

The shear pin seems to have a collar that it fits into, possibly of some harder steel so the rest of the shaft can be made softer. I'll measure what's there tomorrow. I still don't know why there would have been a shear pin lodged in there.

The leather seal I made was such a tight fit it would not have gone on if I had put tape on it. It doesn't matter too much since it's unlikely to leak anyway as there is an O-ring on the shaft too.

It's just a really cheap wood lathe. I've been turning wood almost 4 years now, mainly wooden bowls. The brand is nutool.

Please measure the shear pin setup with some photos. Mine is obviously missing the sleeve then!

O-ring on the reverse shaft? Photo please.

You know, I was wondering today what I can use to turn the leather washers with. I clean forgot I have a wood turning lathe! It is disassembled at the moment so I am not using it. Will get it going tomorrow.

I'll take lots of pictures tomorrow

The O ring is on the lever shaft. It seals fine so I'm not going to bother to replace it

Thanks, no O-ring on mine! OK, no gaskets as well ...

Richard, make sure the thickness of the neoprene gasket you have made is not going to interfere with the running clearances on the shaft, I notice that one end of the boss is machined for a shim or spacer? Also the shear pins should be made from aluminium, dont be tempted to use steel or you will lose gear teeth! I made some on my brothers Raglan Loughborough training lathe , a real back breaker since it was designed for schools and we are both over 6 foot!

Phil

Some progress today, the filler, the brake oil seal and the toggle switch arrived. So looks like we get post twice a week these days.

I made a silly decision to try some paint stripper on the headstock cover piece, so now it looks like i'l have to paint it properly. And If i'm painting one piece, I may as well paint a few more. And if I'm painting a few more, I may as well paint the whole lathe... Another can of worms opened

I'll have to get the lawnmower done first I think. Otherwise there's not enough space for parts and cleaning.

It has been stripped completely, but not photographed. It had more layers than I was expecting. Thinner in some places than others, so its been repainted when the old paint wore through, but the top grey is not very thick at all.

Pictures for Herman

It's peined over on one side so it won't come out. It could possibly be made a bit longer, but it works fine I think

Then I mixed up some filler. I didn't need much but I had to make a little bit as I was unsure about mixing, but It hardened nicely. I've sanded it down, I'll fit the seal tomorrow.

Thanks for the photos. So there is a sleeve in the flange and in the sleeve the shear pin fits? So this sleeve is peened into place?

Paint stripper ... and that is how the journey starts ... ask Phil and myself! All the best, see you in next year

Yes I do believe that there is a sleeve there. See the pictures. I suppose you could just make it from one piece if you had a lathe and some aluminium.

I know exactly where this journey is going, and it's a slippery slope that descends into madness! (For me at least. I'll have to get a compressor and spray paint it properly, unless I can get the hvlp sprayer to work better and stop throwing out chunks)

Once the lathes complete I'll need to find another old machine to restore...

Next year will be here before you know it

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 12/06/2020 22:53:56

Another productive day. Still splitting my time between the lawnmower, lathe and woodworking projects. Perhaps I have too much on my plate!

I spent some more time cleaning the rest of the paint off of the headstock cover, then I put a coat of primer on it. I'll sand it back then do another coat. It'll be better to paint everything at once with the sprayer, so I'll wait to do proper coats.

I sanded back the filler fully, then put a bit of silicone on the seal and spread it around. Then I used it in with a socket. It went in very easily. Just waiting for the other seal to arrive then I'll install that too.

Then I worked on fitting the new light switch. It didn't fit in the same hole as the last switch, but a quick bit if chiseling later, and it fit snugly.

I'm very happy with it, much more fitting than the red switch

The lathe is currently in as many pieces as it ever has.

So I started stripping the few parts that were already off that need to be repainted

Stripped and wire brushed, ready for some primer at some point!

Looking good. What primer are you using?

Anywhere I can see what your woodwork looks like?

It's just the tractol red oxide primer that's suitable for the tractol paint I'm using

The link should take you to an album of what I've been up to for the past few years. Not much woodworking since I got the lathe last September. It's taken up a lot of my time. If only I worked as quickly as you, I need to learn your time traveling tricks!

LINK

Nice work! That vertical belt sander looks familiar. Did you build it off plans from the internet?

Time travel is easy if you have the correct car!

Question for you and Phil. What red is the real British red? Postbox red or signal red? I want to redo the insides of the headstock and gearbox. Maybe this was the same paint as the tractrol red oxide primer you used? I tested on how to remove it and only thinners makes it soft and you can remove it a bit by rubbing with a rag.

Thanks, Herman, The sander did receive inspiration from various articles online, but not plans as such.

Maybe that's the issue, I still can't drive so I don't have a car!

Take a look at this, probably RAL3001 or similar

LINK

The red paint traditionally used to seal the inside of castings is a product called Glyptal, https://www.hisco.com/glyptal. It seals in any stray grains of moulding sand, and fixes any porosity in the casting.

Phil

Hi Phil, yes that is also what I was told over here. So to make sure, I took a sample panel from the lathe with me to a guy in the knowing and he said it is not Glyptal. Main reason is that it did not exist in those days.

I hope it is not Glyptal as it is unaffordium over here ... and for these two reasons I am trying to find a solution to what will match the original paint.

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 14/06/2020 15:01:36

That link's page is chopped ...

Your mate is pulling your leg Herman, Glyptal dates back to 1926!!

Phil

Most likely he is taking a chance then ... The thing over here is all the real experts have departed shores, physically or spiritually.

I will find out what Glyptal costs for 500ml over here.

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 14/06/2020 20:52:44

TBH Herman I use red oxide, but you must let it fully cure before it gets any oil on it or you end up with red oil! Glyptal was developer as a non yellowing oil proof paint.

Phil