Lathe advice... I guess I will need one soon

called David?

One thing you might consider is to go for a lathe which has the same spindle size (taper, etc) as your mill. Then you won't need to double-up with collets, boring head, etc. This will keep the cost down, and the storage space.

Cheers, Tim

I would tend to agree so MT3 or bigger if you want to use the tool holders from the mill.

A lathe with taper bigger than the mill can easily be bushed to suit but tends to rule out a Myford ML7 as that has a MT2 headstock if I am not mistaken.

If you are only making brackets, spacers and non critical bits for motorcycle restoration you do not have to spend hundreds of pounds on a lathe if money has to be considered.

When younger as self taught I made motor bike sprint frames, all the bits required plus outrigger bearings for the engines, fuel injectors and many other parts too numerious to mention with a well used £20 Pool Special lathe that needed some TLC plus some welding bottles.

There are many old hobby type lathes about 4 inch centre selling very cheap sometimes with tools etc. that are suitable for basic turning.

When finances allow you can buy a better class of lathe if required.

Paul

Quite correctly, the centre lathe has been called "The King of Machine Tools", as being the only one capable of reproducing itself. It is a most useful piece of equipment. I'd be lost without mine.

As to "Which One?", the answer depends on a lot of things, known only to you.

1) How big is your budget?

As already pointed out, not all new machines come with a full range of accessories (3 & 4 jaw chucks, Faceplate, Steadies, Drill Chuck, Centres) Ten years ago, I was appalled at the cost of a new fully equipped Myford 7 Series, 'cos EVERYTHING was an extra.

AND bear in mind that you will buy extra tools, if only Dead Centres, Taps, Dies, and cutting tools, Radius Turning attachments, DTIs, Tailstock Die Holders, Drill Chucks etc etc, so the money will seep away as the equipment becomes more comprehensive.

2) What are you going to work on?

Not much point in buying a 21" Dean Smith and Grace if you plan to make watches! Nor will you be able to skim 12" brake drums, or wheels for a 7.25" loco. on a Unimat!

Incidentally, UK nomenclature is the maximum RADIUS that can be swung. US nomenclature is the DIAMETER.

3) How much space is available? Leave room behind the Headstock for material hanging out of the back of the spindle. You will need it one day, for certain

4) Do you want Imperial or Metric graduations? Older machines may be Imperial, whereas a new machine may be Imperial or Metric, or you may have no choice and can only obtain that machine in Metric form.

Even a new Metric machine ought to provide the ability to cut Imperial threads, IF that is one of your requirements. Taps and Dies will usually suffice for smaller more common threads, although you may need to use the gears to cut the occasional oddball, such as Cycle, Brass, or Fine versions of Unified or Metric.

Someone once said "You can do small work on a big lathe, but you can't do big work on a small lathe", so my advice is to buy something a bit bigger than you think that you might need for the moment.

I sold my elderly ML7 because I wanted something larger than a 2MT spindle, and a more rigid machine. The potential Super 7 Sigma 4MT successor was EXPENSIVE, fully equipped, so for much less, I ended up with a 12" DIAMETER swing (18 in the gap) import with induction hardened bedways, norton box, chucks, and steadies. For the price of the hardware, VFD was wired in. Not a perfect machine, but nothing ever is, but it has suited my purposes over the last eleven years. And you can always make mods as and when your confidence grows, and the need arises.

A good second hand machine can be a good purchase, especially if you can obtain changegears, steadies (if you want them - I've used mine very little - but depends on how you use the machine).

Often, machines from Technical Colleges, have seen comparatively little use, and so have little or no wear, but may well show signs of careless use. Bear in mind that Chucks, Backplates, Faceplates, etc for an "industrial" type lathe, such as a Colchester, may be more costly that ones for machines aimed at model makers.

Would you be prepared to do some refurbishment, on a relatively cheap used, machine, to bring it back to something like good condition? (Catch22, you might need an accurate lathe to make new bushes for your worn machine!)

Unless you plan to make a lot of tapers, a Taper Turning attachment may be a little used luxury, although if it comes as part of the deal, go for it. You could always sell it on, and so reduce the effective price of the lathe.

You know what you want the machine to do, and how much money you have available, so DO research the potential machine, and if buying a new import, compare the specification from each supplier, (You may not always get the same range of accessories with what appears to be the same machine, from different suppliers; hence the price difference, AND spares/service/advice backup in case of problems).

Finally, when you install, do ensure that the bench/stand is strong and rigid, and that there is no twist in the bed. You will never turn parallel if the bed has any twist.

Good hunting, and many years of pleasure!

Howard

Hi and thanks for the replies to date....

Howard.... to answer your questions......

I would be after a metric Laithe and most of reasons I want a laithe is for motorcycle restoration tasks, making custom brackets and bits and small engineering tasks.... As this is new to me I really don't have a clue as to how big a laithe I really require.