Emma Victoria

Still working along at the pace of about 12 hrs per week. Wondering when next installment is?

I made my brake shoes from MS, waterjet cut naturally. I also cut some from .375" Q5 Brake material, that I may try at a later date.

Should I be thinking of painting this frame soon?

Nice to see its coming on. Hopefully should be something in the next issue,which I get tomorrow. I'm still miles behind you though and doubt I'll catch up now gardening season will soon be upon us !!

Henry sent me the following text which will appear in the next installment (issue 4453).
Forum users have the benefit of an advanced viewing. I hope it helps.

Diane

Looking at the drawings, the bearing length works out to be 17/64 inch long which is incorrect; this should be 15/64 inch long. Members of the M. E. Forum have suggested making the crank pin 1/32 inch longer to give 1/64 inch clearance when the end washer is nipped up. The crank pin is the correct length at ¼ inch long; if made longer - as has been suggested - this would take out the clearance between the rod and back face of the crosshead, when they pass, should the axle end float be all to one side. Theoretically there should be 1/64 inch clearance, however, depending on the builder’s tolerances, this may be a little tight so I suggest making the washer 3/32 inch thick instead of 7/64 inch as shown on my original drawings. This would give a minimum clearance of 1/32 inch and a maximum of 3/32 inch depending on how the axle floats.
This is a simple modification to the lengths of the bearing and washer which I hope will not have caused too much distress to those currently building the locomotive.

Diane, Thank you for making contact with Henry and my thanks to him for his reply. All is clarified in his first sentence. I will be able to trim the 1/32" extra that I allowed with no trouble. I take on board his suggestion of thinning the washer by 1/64" as well. I look forward to future installments to see how it all fits. Thanks again, John

I did what Henry said, and it works well. I am now into making the cylinders, just WJ cut the parts today from 3/8" x 3" Brass flatbar. I will take a pic of the parts and post it later.

Here are the pieces all ready to D&T etc. I am lazy, so I WJ cut the holes in the valve block and cover.

Another question to those in the know.

The valve shaft is detailed with a .010" flat x 5/8" long on 1 end, with a thread on the opposite end.

Why is there a flat on that end? Should the flat be where the "nut" is fitted? There appears to be a few missing dims. on the "nut" also.

As the end of the shaft is supported in a blind hole there is a risk of condensate building up in the hole and hydralic locking the valve, the flat lets anything out.

Yes there are a few bits missing from the valve nut, shame really as the half page of drawings has been printed twice you would have thought one of the drawings may have the info Maybe third time lucky when the text catches up with the drawings

I would assume its made from 3/8" square stock, the large hole is for the 5/32" rod and the threaded hole 5 or 6BA for a grub screw

J

Edited By JasonB on 26/03/2013 16:15:17

Edited By JasonB on 26/03/2013 16:17:24

Actually I've just read the text and that gives all the info I just said above so we were third time lucky.

Big question is why two different slide valves?

Ah yes now I've had a better look it seems one set of drawings is for all the valve parts & cylinder covers for the fabricated cylinders and the other for cast, although several parts are the same on both drawings there are some subtle differences, would have been handy to have a title saying which is which.

Thats what you get for not reading the article from the start.

J

I have just started construction of my own Emma Victoria, Canadian version. I'm converting to American threads as I go. Good to see that there are others ahead of me in case I have issues. This will be a new project for me as I have never built a locomotive.

I am making the wheels from solid stock and was curious how to mill in the counter weight. Seeing that you've welded in yours I may try riveting a set on. That should be much easier then milling them manually.

James

I am sure that rivets will do nicely. I am just a TIGaholic! I dislike all the drilling and rivetting setup!

Must be a throwback to my boilermaking days!! I just machined the wheels as per the dtails, and cut the c/weights from 1/8" MS and 1/16MS and welded them in.

Where are you in Canada?

I am presently in Halifax, Nova Scotia but will be relocating to Kingston, Ontario in the summer. I'm a marine engineer in the RCN.

Iv'e used 6ba countersunk screws to attach the weights.Will probably put some filler over them.

I caught up with the series last night, so I started another side project.

I see a new mag is up today, so I will be into the drains I guess. I have an EMMA thread under "projects under construction".

I have completed my frame with only one small problem. I broke 2 of my 3 taps #6-32. The old dull tap with the flutes now twisted into a slight spiral survived but the two new sharp ones both snaped while tapping the cross stays.

I am RCN and presently visiting London. Is there a place in London that I can get to easily from the Tube to buy spare taps? Not from here so don't know my way around.

If I break my last tap my progress while I am sailing will be hindered. I'm a marine engineer and naval machinist and have access to machinery while at sea. Ship is open to tours daily while we are here for those interested.

You may have a job finding the smaller UNC sizes, I've looked at a couple of likely places within reach (cromwell & Millhill)but they don't go down to #6.

How long are you docked for, someone like J&L/MSC would deliver next day, assuming they will deliver to the boat/dock.

Hi James

Try the Tap and Die Company **LINK**

445 West Green Road, London, N15 3PL, phone number : 020 8888 1865.

Never done business with them but I believe that they have a good reputation. They have the size you're after listed, with a choice of, taper, 2nd and plug all at £4.50 each.

I don't know London either but it's a fair bet that they will be within striking distance of a tube station.

Keith

Keith and James- FYI Google maps shows a tube station "Turnpike Lane" on the Picadilly line about 1/2 km from 445 West Green Road. Looks like some great Caribbean take out shops in the area, on Street View. Might be wise to go at lunch time!

JD