How not to snap drill bits
Stephen Benson | 01/02/2012 22:12:40 |
![]() 203 forum posts 69 photos |
Posted by Stub Mandrel on 01/02/2012 21:53:25:
> If that is good enough for 'The Master' who am I to argue?
Funny how model engineers chase spurious precision. I have seen so much about setting tool heights.
George H Thomas described a precision height gauge, to be constructed with extreme accuracy. Then near the end of the peice he says that if it is to be used for tool height setting, just set the gauge using a pip in the end of the work or a centre in the tailstock!
![]() Neil
The Master in this case is John Wilding but he and Laurie Penman when they were both writing for Clocks Magazine used to disagree all the time quite often on fundamentals. In fact ask five clockmakers the same question and more often than not you will get five different answers. In clockmaking you need to pick your mentor and stick with him otherwise you will get very confused, I recommend Steve Conovor for clock repair but I very much enjoy John Wilding's construction books. Edited By Stephen Benson on 01/02/2012 22:13:07 Edited By Stephen Benson on 01/02/2012 22:13:37 Edited By Stephen Benson on 01/02/2012 22:16:58 |
blowlamp | 01/02/2012 22:19:57 |
![]() 1885 forum posts 111 photos | If you want to see a true master from yesteryear, you could do worse than check out Thomas Mudge.
Martin. |
Andrew Johnston | 01/02/2012 22:22:59 |
![]() 7061 forum posts 719 photos | Here are the measured values for my machines. The measurements were taken with a piece of 1/2" silver steel in a drill chuck, 1" below the chuck jaws. 1) Pillar drill - Tauco, probably Lend-Lease - total run out 0.1mm 2) Vertical mill - Bridgeport, probably 1970s - total run out 0.07mm I almost never use the pillar drill, but I have successfully drilled hundreds of 0.7mm holes 8mm deep in brass with the vertical mill. Regards, Andrew PS: Funny thing, but I set my lathe tool heights by eye from a centre in the tailstock |
RobC | 02/02/2012 18:14:14 |
54 forum posts 3 photos | I think I have found one cause of my 'wobble' problem!
If I put my DTI on the taper of the drill and gently press the top of the quill, where it protrudes from the pulley, I can cause a deflection of just under 0.1mm to be shown.
I am guessing that the top bearings are either not seated well, or have seen better days.
Any ideas how I find out what they are so that I can replace them without having too much down time on the drill?
It is a Fobco Star and I do have the 'manual' from lathes.co.uk, but there is nothing in there about them that I can see.
Rob
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