Plumbing Overflow - Help!

Not surprising. Lots of composites become brittle with age..

Looks like you are in the market for a new overflow, at minimum, or complete drain outlet assembly.

Search Screwfix, Toolstation, B&Q, Homebase, Plumb Centre etc

If you are lucky, you may find fittings that are compatible with e flexible pipe that is in situ.

Don't kick the cat!

Howard

PS  It might be worth lubing the threads with Vaseline before installing nto guard against a repeat in a few years time?

Edited By Howard Lewis on 13/03/2021 11:59:26

That's why they sell the whole thing as a kit. Just rip out the old one and replace the elbow, screw in cover and corrugated tube . The tube is just a push fit over the spigot on the waste outlet. They don't usually leak but the push fit doesn't inspire confidence in water tightness.

John

When I did the shower waste pipe the bumph sheet said to only use neutral setting silicone, as the normal smelly stuff causes plastic to go brittle. The plumber's merchant reckoned this was rubbish, and he didn't sell the neutral stuff, so I rang the manufacturers of the fitting. They were most insistent, and said they would be having a word with the merchant. The downside of the neutral stuff is it takes longer to set, but who's in a hurry.

Only trouble with these 'simple' plumbing jobs is that you are invariably lying on your back halfway into a cupboard working on a fitting that is just out of reach and in semi-darkness. Deep joy

John

Don't be like me and get rid of the contents of the trap into the sink by tipping into the sink!

Too wet to lie in!

One simple job always spawns at least three more!

Howard

Can I suggest the use of Silicone Grease rather than Vaseline? It should be less inclined to affect the plastic.

Cheers, Tim

Returned to the fray after failing to get a replacement part locally - out-of-stock. Instead, I threw FreeCAD, lathe and milling machine at the problem and bumbled an Aluminium insert.

The design is a bayonet fitting designed to engage the broken ends of the plastic original:

Could be 3D printed, but I wanted to cut metal. Main issues lack of space and shameful operator error.

Lathe operations straightforward except as designed the sink insert should have a rounded out radius. My ball-turning tool fouled the chuck, but I was able to curve up and out instead.

Milling proved challenging because the mill's ER32 collet comes extremely close to the rotary table when slotting the three bayonet grooves:

Got away with it, otherwise holding the job in a Stephenson Block might have made more room: not sure. Holding small parts in a big mill can be tricky!

The two D shaped holes for drainage went well until I had one of my right-left confusions and wound the cutter into the metal 90° off course, oh dear. Should have started again, but decided to make the damage less obvious by filing. No prizes for this - because I can't file neatly, but the dishevelled result isn't too obvious!

Most embarrassing blunder should have been obvious during CAD design, but I missed it. The cross-bar is drilled to take the chain's clasp. When I came to make the hole, there is no access at 90° and the result of angling in was a nasty gouge, fortunately out of sight.

I mark myself ⁴⁄₁₀ for this. Disguises an ugly hole in the sink and hasn't fallen out yet, but as they often said when I was at school 'Could do better. '

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 19/04/2021 15:28:51

Dave, when dealing with house repairs, old or new, the first thing you need to learn is that there is no such thing as a "Handy" job. That 5 minute job usually turns into a 3hour one and still might not turn out right.

How do I know ? Dont even ask !

Best thing to do, is to make a total mess of the first job, then you will not be asked to do any more !

Hope this helps.