Smart and Brown Sabel

That spindle will be ok, the score is less than 10% of the area. I replaced the thrust race on the Model A with a metric one, I think the bore was the same as the old one, you would have to do a bit of research on the sizes for the Sable first as the design differs.

Well I managed to break something. Bah.
Stripping the apron and I couldn’t undo the clutch screw so got progressively bigger screwdrivers until I sheared it off. Dufus!

Got the end out of the shaft - of course it’s left handed isn’t it!!!

so now I need to:
a) make another
b) find another (Unlikely)
c) replace with something else (metric allen head?)

So firstly, does anyone have one
Next does anyone know what the thread would be as it’s not one I can identify
Next, anyone got a suitable left handed die?

Also, no luck on replacement oiler felts. I can get them from the US but that’s pricey of course.
The good news is only the gearbox left to clean. Yay.

Will Boxford parts fit, being a South Bend clone too?

That's quite likely but the problem is finding them. You could try John Ward at latheparts.co.uk but I'm not sure if he's still trading; last time I spoke to him he was trying to retire. Worth a try though as he might be able to make you one.

Another thought, bit late possibly, but there is a useful manual in existence for the rebuild of the South Bend lathes, 'A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe 9" Model A, B, C Plus 10K" which is fully illustrated and details the strip down/rebuild of those machines, nearly all of which applies to the clones as well. IIRC I bought my copy through Amazon, and it was well worth the money for my Boxford rebuild.

Afterthought on felts, vintage vehicle part suppliers stock suitable felt sheet, you'll have to search for them tho'.

Oddly my Boxford has no felt wicks anywhere and I've not seen mention of them ever being fitted on them either.

Thanks for all the ideas Brian. I’ll definitely check those pulleys.
I’ve been busy and finally got the new paint. I like it MUCH more thankfully.

Almost everything is primed now and I’ve started painting the parts that were originally left in red oxide in RAL 3011 brown red. It’ll be a nod to the red oxide but much harder wearing.

The bed has come up very nicely as has the saddle but not was a pain to strip.
I still haven’t fully stripped the worm drive. I think it had a circular ring screwed on with a hole to turn it but I’m not 100% there. Anyone recall how it comes apart?

Lastly I’ve ordered a service kit for the Southbend 9” from the states which will have the oilers and felts to fit, and amazingly I managed to source a 5/32-32 left hand die to make another screw for the clutch knob. I had one form quote me £240 for that die. Luckily the one on order was a lot less than that.
Right that’s all for now.

Cheers all

Jim

Hello Jim,

I took all the saddle components to pieces and put them together again when I first acquired my Sabel but sadly I can't recall the sort of detail you are asking for, the description is rather vague. It is not particularly difficult though, perhaps a bit fiddly here and there. There are some oil ways that will need poking through, they were rather choked on my lathe. I remember some wicks in one or two of those as well. They clean up OK and can be refitted

From the memories I have, the internals are logical. The interlocks are positive and easy to see how they work.

The clutch, a drum shaped component, works by compressing a disc spring using the star wheel to do so. That causes two shoes [ I think there are two] to expand into the the rim of the drum and provide the drive for either facing or turning as selected by the lever on the apron front

I don't know if that answers your query, try me again if not.

Regards Brian

Google G&M Tools and Home and Workshop Supplies, both suppliers of S/H Boxford parts. That L/H thread screw is also a Boxford/Southbend part. They will stock that item and sell you one.

Regards.

Perhaps you could mark the end of the new screw "LH", in case somebody encounters it in years to come.

When the Sable was made, the spindle thread was increased in size from the other clones, so S B and Boxford backplates are too small. You know that, but others might not.

Edited By old mart on 18/06/2020 15:45:55

Edited By old mart on 18/06/2020 15:47:02

Boxford wiper felts on Ebay. Item #25452393933

regards

Almost finished the painting now and I’m pleased with the results.
really only got to finish sanding back the filler in the headstock top cover
Waiting on the delivery of the Southbend 9” service kit from the US but it’s in the country at least

Here’s some photos.

I wanted to keep this.

this came out really well.
And finally some idea of how it’ll be once done.
I have noted that the holes in the bed don’t line up with the holes in the cabinet risers. I’m hoping there’ll be some place in the cast blocks on the bed which are bolted In place.

A bit more work, but now I’m really waiting for the Southbend service kit to clear customs.
Assembled the motor pulley sub assembly which I’m pleased with. Do you like the red?

also got the 3/16x32 W LH die today and cut a test piece. Very happy to report that it fits, so if anyone else needs one, holler!

Question about the thread cutting indicator. When I reassembled it, the dial wasn’t indexed at all to the drive. Does it matter where the indicating dial plate sits on the mounting plate?

Cheers, Jim

The threading indicator top with the printing should turn with the gear, but be possible to slacken off the central screw to get it lined up with the datum on the casting. The datum will be a simple paint radial mark, yours probably goes where the top edge gets wider at 12 o'clock when it is fitted to the lathe. The dial must not slip relative to the gear, unless you are adjusting it. This type pivot to disengage the gear from the leadscrew to avoid unwanted wear when you are not threading.

Edited By old mart on 25/06/2020 21:14:18

Turn the leadscrew and the dial will turn to wherever you want it to be. Move the carriage along the bed and the dial will turn to wherever you want it to be. There is no datum to line the dial with the datum on the casting. If you are saying there is a mismatch between a point on the dial and the datum when the half nuts are engaged then the answer is it doesn't really matter as long as you know what the error is.

Martin 

Edited By Martin Connelly on 25/06/2020 21:11:11

When we overhauled the apron of the model A, I decided to fit those telescopic spring leadscrew covers and now the leadscrew is clean and oily, and the new nut will last as long as the machine, also the constantly connected threading dial, with its 24 divisions will not suffer from dirt in its little bronze gear.

Hi guys.
what I’m trying so say (badly) is that the painted plate on the thread indicator has come adrift of the driven plate below it.
there’s some signs of adhesive between the two or it could just be grime.
When screwed on, the etched plate is sandwiched to the driven MS plate below it, but does the relative position to it matter?
Should I glue them together as a sub assembly do you think, and if so does the relative position matter?

Old Mart. Where did you get your bellows from?

cheers
Jim

Commonly the dial is just a locked to the shaft by the screw so that it can be adjusted to line up against the index mark when the half nuts can be engaged. Drive forces are tiny so its not going to move.

One of my SouthBends (I think) was annoyingly far out. Fixed by loosening the screw, moving the saddle so the half-nuts could be engaged, resetting the dial to align one of the full, numbered, marks with the index line and tightening the screw.

Job done except I was bit over precise and set the dial so the marks came up to alignment at the first point the half nuts could be closed. So in practice the engagement point was just after the marks had gone past alignment. Still annoying asI'm much happier with just coming up to marks than just gone past it on, well, pretty much everything. But not quite annoying enough to be sorted.

Clive

Hi Clive.
thanks. I think that’s what I needed to know.
j

If the dial slips on its shaft, then put a washer under the head of the screw. Don't fix it so that it cannot be moved when required. 

The bellows came from that organisation that should not be mentioned any more. Perhaps putting in "lathe leadscrew cover" into a search engine would do.

Edited By old mart on 26/06/2020 20:34:45

Edited By old mart on 26/06/2020 20:37:13

Finished the electrics on the cabinet so have moved it to where it’s going to live.

Also I’ve added a period looking lamp
buggered if I can afford a proper MEM Light so this’ll have to do.

And finally, I’ve been renovating the forward reverse lever labelling.

Getting there.