Lee Jones 6 | 19/05/2020 22:08:14 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Posted by Martin Connelly on 19/05/2020 22:00:54:
You have your 50mm cutter on H1 which is 600 rpm. This is about 1.5 times as fast as I would be running it. Try the next lower speed. Martin C Edited By Martin Connelly on 19/05/2020 22:03:39 Sounds like you are viewing the pre-view. You have to click on the video to play it. The next speed down is 280. |
Martin Connelly | 19/05/2020 22:15:30 |
![]() 2549 forum posts 235 photos | I have seen the whole video now and edited what I wrote. Martin C |
Lee Jones 6 | 19/05/2020 22:25:17 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Thanks Martin. The part is actually half that (70mm), so I guess my feed is way too low. I tried raising it and it just became louder and louder. Do you think after a certain point, the noise will start to reduce? |
Martin Connelly | 19/05/2020 22:41:10 |
![]() 2549 forum posts 235 photos | You need to cut not rub. I was judging the width of the material by the fact it looked about 3 times as wide as the cutter. A 4 insert carbide cutter at 50mm diameter being used on steel should be running at about 450 rpm for the correct surface speed on steel. Slower is better than faster so you need to run at 280 rpm. At this rpm to have each tooth cut 0.125mm per rev you need to travel (feed) at 140mm/minute. Carbide inserts can be quite blunt compared to HSS so not feeding fast enough causes the insert to slide over the surface rather than digging in and cutting. The curling burr on the top of the cut is evidence of a lot of rubbing rather than cutting. Find the power feed setting that moves the table 140mm in 1 minute and use that with 280 rpm and see if it all works more like you expect. The suggestion of new inserts of known quality may help as well. Martin C |
JasonB | 20/05/2020 07:07:14 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Are those still the poor inserts which will be rubbing not cutting. You get more gear noise at the start and finish of the cut as you have less tooth engagement so the cutter is going from loaded to unloaded and then back to loaded which will be putting the intermittant load into the gears. This is made worse by the excessive load from the blunt inserts. Did you watch those videos I posted about 5.30 yesterday and the knocking and vibration I got with teh cheap facemill and inserts and how the knocking and general poor cut went away with decent inserts? Also cut from the other direction, you are climb milling which won't help. Martin, where do you get your speeds from, The chart I have for these style of inserts (not cheapies) gives 100-140m/min for mild and low carbon steels so taking 120m/min average that is 760rpm |
Lee Jones 6 | 20/05/2020 07:19:46 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:
Are those still the poor inserts which will be rubbing not cutting. Yes, of course. I know ARC's service is good, but getting new inserts same-day might be pushing it. Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:
You get more gear noise at the start and finish of the cut as you have less tooth engagement so the cutter is going from loaded to unloaded and then back to loaded which will be putting the intermittant load into the gears. This is made worse by the excessive load from the blunt inserts. Well it's a relief to know that there might not be something wrong with the gears after all. Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:
Did you watch those videos I posted about 5.30 yesterday and the knocking and vibration I got with teh cheap facemill and inserts and how the knocking and general poor cut went away with decent inserts? Also cut from the other direction, you are climb milling which won't help. I did watch your videos, and I do plan on getting some new inserts. Ah, I didn't think it mattered when facemilling. I'll try again from the otherside later, see if anything improves. |
Ron Laden | 20/05/2020 07:22:51 |
![]() 2320 forum posts 452 photos | Jason can you point me to your video of your tests of the ARC face mills and end mill I have forgotten where they are. Ron |
Lee Jones 6 | 20/05/2020 07:26:13 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Page 1. |
Ron Laden | 20/05/2020 07:43:49 |
![]() 2320 forum posts 452 photos | Oops that will teach me to read the whole of the thread. Thanks Lee Edited By Ron Laden on 20/05/2020 07:44:21 Edited By Ron Laden on 20/05/2020 07:44:50 |
JasonB | 20/05/2020 08:00:20 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Posted by Lee Jones 6 on 20/05/2020 07:19:46:
Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:
Also cut from the other direction, you are climb milling which won't help. I did watch your videos, and I do plan on getting some new inserts. Ah, I didn't think it mattered when face milling. I'll try again from the other side later, see if anything improves. It does not matter so much as the width of the cut increases but where the tool first enters and finally exits the work it is only using a very small width so will have a higher tendency to be pulled in and these are the two parts of the cut where you are getting the most vibration. If the cut were done again by hand feeding you would be more likely to feel the lack of effort needed on the handwheel as the tool feeds itself at start and finish. Personally I would hold fire until you have better inserts as they will massively affect what the machine will be able to cut and how much it vibrates, I'm sure Martin's figures are based on sharp concentric tooling too. |
Lee Jones 6 | 20/05/2020 08:06:34 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Sounds reasonable. I'll get an order in today (and you can claim your commission). |
JasonB | 20/05/2020 13:10:34 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | I wish. Just suggesting items that I have actually used, feel free to shop elsewhere, The ARC ones seem reasonable good value, the other Korloy and KG-1 also work well but I'd be hard pushed to say they work twice as well as they cost about twice as much. However all of them are a marked improvement over the Banggood ones and transformed the facemill. |
Lee Jones 6 | 21/05/2020 08:06:29 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 13:10:34:
I wish. Just suggesting items that I have actually used, feel free to shop elsewhere, The ARC ones seem reasonable good value, the other Korloy and KG-1 also work well but I'd be hard pushed to say they work twice as well as they cost about twice as much. However all of them are a marked improvement over the Banggood ones and transformed the facemill. Just seen Ketan's post. Hopefully my silly flippant comment above wasn't one of the (many by the looks of it) catalysts for it. If I would have known this was such a sensitive issue, I wouldn't have made that joke! Just for the record, it was *just* a joke. Besides, I wouldn't care if you were sponsored anyway - more power to you if you were AFAIC. |
JasonB | 21/05/2020 08:11:08 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Not your comment though the odd
J Edited By JasonB on 21/05/2020 08:11:15 |
Lee Jones 6 | 21/05/2020 09:02:26 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | TBF, 95% of what I say should have an I fear I'd wear the poor little fella out. |
Martin Connelly | 21/05/2020 10:30:05 |
![]() 2549 forum posts 235 photos | I've done a simple test of milling some cold rolled steel of unknown specification using a smm (surface metres per minute) of 40 and a feed that gives the same chip load of 0.125mm that would result from using the figures I suggested of 280rpm and 140mm/min. As I was using a 16mm 2 insert cutter that equated to a speed of 875rpm and a feed of 70mm/min. I did a pass at nominal depth of 0mm to be sure there were no high spots then passes with cutting depths of 0.5mm, 1mm, 1,5mm and 2mm. I used conventional milling direction and a cut width of approximately 80% (12.8mm). I would normally use climb milling and would not expect the rag that shows on the far side of the cut that comes from starting the cut with a rubbing action. I used conventional milling (left to right on the nearside, would be right to left on the far side) as that is what Lee will be doing as his machine does not have CNC controlled ball screws. The finish is not as good as would be produced with a higher speed but is fine for roughing out. The chips still come off blue but would be far hotter and thrown far further with higher rpm. It's a trade off between speed, finish and hot chips flying about from a machine that has had its guard removed. Edited By Martin Connelly on 21/05/2020 10:31:08 |
Lee Jones 6 | 21/05/2020 10:55:51 |
258 forum posts 125 photos | Thanks Martin. I think my machine would shake the house down if I tried that. The gears rattle loudly even when slotting with a 12mm endmill! I still think there might be something wrong with the gearbox. Might have to open her up and see. |
JasonB | 21/05/2020 10:58:43 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Thank's martin, seems happy enough with the slower cutting speed with I'm sure reasonable inserts, bit of vibration on the deeper cuts that is hopefully just the camera mount. The wider cut on lees example would be governed by its power but should reasonable as they are a good size machine. Were those speeds based on what Mach3, I tend to use what is in F360 a lot of the time, certainly for solid milling cutters and just reduce the feeds to what the machine is comfortable with which is around the 300-400 for 3 and 4 flute cutters that you mentioned. Edited By JasonB on 21/05/2020 10:59:27 |
Martin Connelly | 21/05/2020 11:52:19 |
![]() 2549 forum posts 235 photos | I used Mach3 for medium steel and plain carbide to get the 400 rpm figure first mentioned. A lot of tables are for maximum metal removal in industrial environments with lots of horsepower and with flood coolant to wash the chips away. Mach3 seems more suited to small machines in home workshops. This was done on a round column machine with belt drive so the noises will be different but the need to keep cutting and not alternating between rubbing and cutting is far more important with a gearbox. All the backlash that gearboxes invariably have will respond to the varying load on the cutter if it is not continuously cutting. My pet peeve at work was with pipefitters drilling large holes in stainless pipes (branch pipes of 2"nb in 3 or 4 inch pipes for example) with too low a feed per rev on large drills and not using power feed on the big radial drill. Horrendous squealing, huge rags inside the hole and large drills with chipped corners having to be re-sharpened or replaced almost every time they were used. And don't start me on people using the morse taper shanks of large drills or sleeves as hammers to drive a drift when removing tools from morse tapers. Martin C |
SillyOldDuffer | 21/05/2020 11:54:44 |
10668 forum posts 2415 photos | Going back to the original question: 'What *should* a Warco Super Major Milling Machine be able to accomplish?' Motor power and rigidity are the basic limitations. The Super Major's 1.5kW motor should be plenty in a small workshop. Rigidity is a different issue. It depends partly on the design, mostly on adjustment. Rule of thumb, the heavier the better. Importantly, keeping gibs well adjusted and locking all the slides that shouldn't move during a cut. Work-holding to minimise unwanted movement is an art and a science! For example, the head and quill should be as close to the cut as possible, because it reduces leverage on the machine and it will bend. My WM18 has a 1.1kW motor and weighs 220kg. A Super Major has 1.5kW, and weighs 450kg. That means a well-adjusted Super Major should be stiffer than a WM18. It doesn't mean the WM18 can't produce much the same output as a Super Major in terms of accuracy or finish. Rather the Super Major should be able to take heavier cuts, ie produce accurate work faster whilst requiring less TLC from the operator. However, both machines demand careful setting up and work best with sharp tools on suitable materials. Light machines in this class are likely to chatter. Work-holding can be a major challenge - it's vital jobs can't move or bend whilst being cut. A Super Major won't be able to rip metal like a production machine; instead the operator is obliged to find the sweet spot at which it removes metal reasonably quickly whilst getting a good finish. As milling machines go a 450kg Super Major is a lightweight. Many swear by the Bridgeport because it's a proven good performer just about small enough to be squeezed into a home workshop. It weighs about 900kg and has a 4kW motor. Jolly nice mill, and easier and quicker to use than a Super Major. But all things are relative: in the trade, Bridgeports are considered to be on the weedy side! So a Bridgeport, Super Major and WM18 *should* all be capable of similar results, but don't expect a WM18 to be a Super Major or a Super Major to perform like a Bridgeport. The lighter hobby machines need more care and attention and work has to be done within their limitations. Life gets easier once a machines performance limits are understood. I often wish I had a Bridgeport, not because my WM18 can't do all I need, but because a bigger stiffer machine would make a lot of jobs more straightforward. Woe is me. I haven't got space for a Bridgeport or a Super Major... Dave
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