Nick Hulme | 01/07/2017 20:20:42 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Double post deleted. Edited By Nick Hulme on 01/07/2017 20:30:03 |
Nick Hulme | 01/07/2017 20:29:18 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Posted by Chris Baetens on 01/07/2017 18:45:24:
I understand now, I think... I think you are confusing the definitions of "Adequate", "Good", "Perfect" and "Near Perfect", I have a good dictionary and nothing here including my own 3D printed work gets anywhere close to "Near Perfect", I await your "Near Perfect" prints with bated breath - Nick Edited By Nick Hulme on 01/07/2017 20:31:08 |
Chris Baetens | 01/07/2017 21:15:11 |
78 forum posts | My printed parts already are 'near perfect' Nick... |
Nick Hulme | 02/07/2017 11:17:52 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | You're a funny man, I'll give you that :D |
Chris Baetens | 02/07/2017 21:30:06 |
78 forum posts | Busy making 12 E3D hotends for these two printers I just made. Lucky me I have a lathe and a mill. Making these hotends myself saves me 32.4€x12 = 389€
Edited By Chris Baetens on 02/07/2017 21:47:08 |
Nick Hulme | 04/07/2017 10:33:51 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Hey Chris, they're nearly perfect! |
Chris Baetens | 04/07/2017 11:08:35 |
78 forum posts | Nick, ..... nearly...?... |
MK | 07/07/2017 10:33:37 |
![]() 24 forum posts 20 photos | Good work on those! I had to make my own as well, but fitted a PTFE tubing inside of the heatbreak. |
Chris Baetens | 07/07/2017 11:26:27 |
78 forum posts | In my case the PTFE tubing also goes into the heatbreak, but only 5mm deep. |
Chris Baetens | 17/07/2017 16:19:08 |
78 forum posts | A few of my selfmade fast removable hotends...
|
Neil Wyatt | 17/07/2017 20:15:10 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Very neat - bowden tube ones, I assume? Neil |
Chris Baetens | 17/07/2017 20:44:48 |
78 forum posts | No Neil, no Bowden at all. This printer has a direct drive system on board. Chris |
Nick Hulme | 05/08/2017 18:54:34 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Posted by Chris Baetens on 17/07/2017 20:44:48:
No Neil, no Bowden at all. This printer has a direct drive system on board. So there is either a drive in the head which we can't and haven't seen or each hot end has it's own drive? |
Chris Baetens | 05/08/2017 19:44:03 |
78 forum posts | It indeed looks like having a Bowden system on board, but the PTFE tubing has a completely other reason of existence. I wanted to install the filament reel into the printer housing itself. Most of the time I print stuff about 4" to 5" high. There's lots of unused space in that printed. So my reels are (inside)at the bottom of the printer, horizontally(takes less space) supported by ball bearings of course. To guide the filament near the top of the printer I use that PTFE tube you're mistaken for a Bowden. Works really nicely btw. So the filament is pulled by the direct drive all the way up, no problem there. |
Nick Hulme | 05/08/2017 21:38:40 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | But the reason everyone makes the same assumption is that you don't show your drive or it's position or function and leave it open to speculation based on your vague description. |
Ian P | 05/08/2017 22:43:54 |
![]() 2747 forum posts 123 photos | I suppose I should Google it as I have no idea what 'hotends' or 'heatbreaks' are. I think I can sort of imagine that the hotend is the actual printing nozzle but why would you need so many of them? As to the hotends, why cut up perfectly good M6 bolts when it appears that quite a large quantity could be made from a 1m length of M6 threaded rod. Ian P |
Chris Baetens | 05/08/2017 23:11:18 |
78 forum posts | Nick, Huuu...? I think it's all but a vague discription. I think the first pictures in this thread explained it all. Or am I missing something here...? |
Chris Baetens | 05/08/2017 23:39:26 |
78 forum posts | Ian, A hotend is the complete assembly, that heats up the filament in the lower region of that hotend and at the same time cool it in the upper part, to keep it from jamming. This pictures shows 3 hotends with different nozzles. The hotend with the smallest nozzle(0.4mm) is for very small prints or prints with a very smooth perimeter, say accurate work. The thickest nozzle(0.7) is for printing very large parts, very fast, or in case perimeters does not have to be very smooth. I'm busy making hotends for even faster printing, I'm thinking of 1.2mm nozzle and even bigger..
I used these bolts because I had no further use of them, but also because these bolts have a partly smooth part. I needed these smooth parts to secure it in the lathe without destroying the threads. |
Nick Hulme | 05/08/2017 23:59:40 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Posted by Chris Baetens on 05/08/2017 23:11:18:
Nick, Huuu...? I think it's all but a vague discription. I think the first pictures in this thread explained it all. Or am I missing something here...? Filament drive mechanism? Not evident, photos don't enlarge when clicked so I can't zoom in either. I know you can see it but put yourself in the position of the engineer who built the machine and wrote the manual, you obviously can't see past your own assumed level of knowledge - Nick |
Nick Hulme | 06/08/2017 00:06:09 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | Posted by Chris Baetens on 05/08/2017 23:39:26: I needed these smooth parts to secure it in the lathe without destroying the threads.
I used an ER40 Collet Chuck to machine my throats from Stainless threaded bar, you can safely hold the OD of threads without damage using a good ER40 Collet Chuck - Nick |
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