160mm 3Jaw SC D1-3 Camlock Chuck

Lee

Boxford fitted three or four different motors. I presume you checked the motor plate first, as you may well have a dual voltage 240/415v motor.

How do i search for Nick_G and his post

Thanks

Lee

Use your backplate unless the stud thread alignment is so poor that any of the cam position indicators are outside the 45° quarter past / half past safe fitting arc. Very rare error. As mentioned on another post I have a backplate that is marginal and can only safely be used in one position. PB precision 160 mm sitting on it and all behaves just fine.

If you are going to use your backplate then have a look at this page **LINK**. for ideas.

The Vertex at £180 looks a deal but not sure how well Vertex quality has held up over the years. All my Vertex gear has been at least outright good not just good for the price. Bought a new 125 mm version of the TOS front and rear mount chuck years ago for a SouthBend lathe now long gone and was perfectly satisfied with its performance. Not far short of my 160 mm P-B precision really.

Clive.

David

Yes its the dual voltage one

Here you go David.. thanks

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:01:11

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:13:20

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:14:40

Hi Clive

Thanks for that but i can't see where it mentions D1-3 to fit the backplate on the Vertex or TOS chucks

Thanks

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:13:57

I had an Emco Emcomat 8.6 for the best part of 20yrs and managed on that with just the external jaws for the 3-jaw plus a 160mm 4-jaw, another spanner to throw into the works.

thanks Jason..lol

All the chucks on that page need to mount onto a D1-3 backplate @ about £100 for a good one. If you click "more details" against either chuck it will say ity is 125mm recess which is what I mentioned earlier.

Edited By JasonB on 20/06/2017 12:22:08

Ok.. forgive me i'm getting confused..

So D1-3 and D1-3 Camlock are two different things

thanks Jason

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:29:20

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 12:46:39

Lee

They are one and the same.

D1 is an industry standard, D1-3, 4 etc is the size.

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html

Lee

Sorry, can't help you on that, as I have a rotary converter for mine.

ok thanks for your help david

.

Hi Lee,

I don't think I made a post about fitting the inverter to my X10 series lathe.

But I can tell you it's a Mitsubishi one purchased from Newton Tesla in Warrington.

There are several ways that are popular to control the inverter.

1) By the butons on the unit it's self. - This is far from ideal as the unit will get covered in grubby oil and crud from your fingers.
2) Most suppliers will provide an option of a remote pendant type control. - This is the easiest option and a good one that is taken by many people. You could of course make your own as one pays a premium for the supplied ones.
3) I stripped out the existing control circuit wiring and reconfigured it so that it latched relays / contactors interlinked with the forward and reverse controls. The advantage of doing this is that one uses the existing original switches, buttons and kick bars that the lathe was supplied with. No advantage electrically but IMHO it looks far neater.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 20/06/2017 14:00:44

Hi Nick

I have already got a Mitsubushi E520s pre configured with the Pendent from Gavin on Ebay so just need to make the motor Mesh as opposed to Star and connect the SY cable from the inverter to the motor...

i was looking for advice on how to make the motor Mesh using the A,B,C,N terminals

Thanks

Edited By Lee Goulding on 20/06/2017 14:08:37

Hi David

What is the best white and yellow paint for the boxford 280 as mine is the same colour as yours but need some touch up

Thanks

.

Presumably the 'N' terminal has 3 wires connected to it. Yes / No.? (bit misleading as N normally denotes neutral. but in this case they have probably used a universal connection plate)

If so you need to disconnect and separate those three wires on the N terminal. You will then ideally need a Megger / insulation tester. If you have not got one a continuity tester of some form will do. - Just to be on the safe side of caution don't use a high voltage insulation tester with the inverter connected. Probably be OK but some electronics don't like voltage shoved the wrong way up their chuffer.!

What you need then to do with the tester is identify the other end of the windings for A, B & C ( given depending on maker any designation but usually U, V, W, or X, Y, Z. with a 1 or 2 after the letter. Does't matter really it's just a way of ID-ing them.)

Once you have the winding pairs connect as follows. :-

What you have ATM is the star connection with the N being the common bond of W2, U2, V2

Nick

Lee

Now you've really done it lol .

I've been trying to find out for a year. Boxford say they don't know, but it was a Trimite paint. Trimite say they don't know.

After much searching of the RAL and BS colour charts, I think I have found a very close match - but I have a second version of the cream in the post as we speak, so will do a test of that when it arrives, and advise which is closest.

The one I have already is a pretty good match - mine is in the classifieds section, the tray and bed (just between the ways) has been done, all of the rest of the machine is the original paint, a pretty close match.

Hi Nick

thanks for the explanation and yes its has 3 wires connected but might need my sparky friend to check all that its beyond my remit...

cheers

Hi David

Cant believe they done know!! would love to know as mine will need a bit of restoration both White and Yellow

Thanks