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MEM Electrics

Starter stopped working

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Andy Ash08/12/2016 23:16:34
159 forum posts
36 photos
Posted by Emgee on 08/12/2016 20:58:30:

les

A problem I see with the unit selected by Brian is the full load neutral current will be passing through the Stop switch of the unit, as would be the case by the connection through the o/l trip, won't take many start/stop operations to burn either of those pairs of contacts out.

I see on ebay Enclosed starter with o/l for £32 inc pp

**LINK**

Emgee

I will vouch for this type of DOL starter, which has been on my lathe and in regular use for more than two years.

The only thing don't like is the plastic box, but in every other respect these are good, despite being Far Eastern.

Even more expensive Schnider / Klockner switchgear comes in plastic boxes now, so what can you do?

You can easily wire in an e-stop chain if you wish. Only the contactor takes the motor load. The contactor won't wear out, but if it does you can replace it with any standard one without having to replace the whole starter.

It has an adjustable thermal trip also.

Edited By Andy Ash on 08/12/2016 23:19:58

Les Jones 109/12/2016 08:36:16
2292 forum posts
159 photos

Hi Emgee,
I could not find any proper information on the unit that Brian has ordered so I was just assuming that the nvr switch in the unit was like the one in the ebay link I posted. The information that you posted (At 22:24 on the 8th) shows the NVR switch to be three pole (I have not seen the three pole version before) At least it is a little better than I thought in that he can use the third contact as the maintainer contact. It is still not as good as the ebay item that you and andy ash linked to or the Screwfix one I linked to or the Toolstation one that Michael Pool linked to. (I thought Toolstation had them but failed to find then when I did a search for "motor starter" but I have just found them searching for "DOL starter" I had suspected that Toolstation would be a little cheaper than Screwfix.

Les.

Brian H09/12/2016 09:21:57
avatar
2312 forum posts
112 photos

Andy, why couldn't you have posted earlier, the company you provided a link to is about 3 miles away from me!

I may abandon using the switch I've ordered and make a call on this company.

As ever, very grateful to Engee & Les for their comments.

Emgee09/12/2016 10:46:32
2610 forum posts
312 photos

Hi Brian, sounds like you have made a wise decision, you will be replacing like with like and the new starter should give many years of trouble free use, don't forget to adjust the overload to your motor FLC from the nameplate.

Emgee

Brian H09/12/2016 11:47:02
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2312 forum posts
112 photos

Wouldn't you just know it, the company that is 3 miles away is on holiday for at least a couple of weeks!

The Axminster switch has just arrived and looks good. I'm going to fit it so that I can get on and will team it with one of the Screwfix overloads as suggested by Les.

I will only use the Axminster switch to turn on the electrics because the rotary switch turns the lathe on and off so maybe it'll last a bit longer.

If (when) it burns out then the local company should be back from holiday.

As before, very grateful to all the help.

Brian

Les Jones 109/12/2016 13:00:00
2292 forum posts
159 photos

Hi Brian,
The starter thet Michael Pool suggested from Toolstation works out cheaper than the one on Ebay. The starter is £20.20 and the thermal overload is £9.90 (Total £30.10) You should find aToolstation faily close to you. You could just use the emergency stop button on the unit from Axminster. (You could even use the NVR part of it for the coolant pump.

Les.

Brian H09/12/2016 15:50:57
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2312 forum posts
112 photos

Thanks for your continuing help Les. Am I correct in thinking that these thermal overload relays are OK for single phase? only none of the descriptions give any information.

Brian

Les Jones 109/12/2016 18:15:04
2292 forum posts
159 photos

Hi Brian,
Yes allthough they are made for three phase they can be used on single phase. I will explain how they work first. Each of the three themal overloads consists of a small heating element connected in series with the load. This is wrapped around a bi metal strip. The heating effect causes the bi metal to bend. The more current passes through the heating element the more the bi metal bends. If one or more bimetal strips bend they bear against a bar it causes a normally closed contact to open. This contact is in series with the contactor coil so the contactor drops out. For single phase use you normally use two of the three. (One for live and one for neutral.) You may find some wiring diagrams suggesting putting the third overload is series with the one that has already been used for the live. I don't think this is necessary. Don't forget to get the themal overload with the correct current adjustment range for your motor. You can check online that your local Toolstation has the items in stock before traveling.

Les.

Brian H11/12/2016 15:42:45
avatar
2312 forum posts
112 photos

Decided to cut my losses and go for a self contained item such as has been discussed earlier. I just want to get on with my Burrell!

Thanks to all (especially Les and Emgee) for help.

Brian

Edited By Brian Hutchings on 11/12/2016 15:43:14

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