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Retired American living in France with a new toy

I need advice concerning a Nanometer (NL1) tiny lathe drive motor

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Douglas St.Denny09/02/2016 16:20:23
12 forum posts
Posted by Ketan Swali on 09/02/2016 15:58:58:
Posted by Douglas St.Denny on 09/02/2016 13:52:31:

I'm not convinced that the quality of the machine I bought 2nd hand is as poor as is being alluded to. If I find that I'm unhappy with it, I'll mention it here, and tell everyone why. Value for money spent is something I take seriously.

No reply from Draper yet, re the motor for their Micro Lathe.

Douglas

Hi Douglas,

Before you embark on this knowledge of discovery with your Nano, I would like to suggest that you have a read of this thread. It is a great insight into Brian Johns journey - as a beginner. I am suggesting this as a positive statement, with admiration for Brians perseverance. His journey is a great example of a combination of lack of user experience (nothing wrong with that), combined with limitations of the lathe he has purchased, and value for money.

You will need to keep in mind that the Nano has far more limitations than Brians machine.

Ketan at ARC.

Thanks for the suggestion re the thread. I just read it and found answers to a few questions I had floating around in my head.

Draper replied - 90€ for the new motor which includes shipping to France. No stock until April or so.

I'm in no hurry, and at that price certainly not interested in pre-ordering...

Douglas

Buzz09/02/2016 16:57:22
2 forum posts

Hello

I knew i had one in my very full shed, but unfortunately it is only 70w and two wires from what i can see. I have taken some photos so you can have a look. I got it from my brothers sewing machine factory which closed about 3yrs ago.

Have a look and see what you think.

Tommy

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ydyeg336gwvbwug/20160209_162445.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zjyc3kd8w6e1sfg/20160209_162454.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vlw8lgob9y2pjsu/20160209_162509.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4hb01nhvsqbjhkh/20160209_162519.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ybwx9achu7whk6o/20160209_162540.jpg?dl=0
Phil Whitley09/02/2016 20:53:20
avatar
1533 forum posts
147 photos

Hi all, Can I just jump in here and suggest that the motor be tested direct on to the mains, without the speed controller in circuit. It sounds like the brushes are good, and the comm is smooth and clean, and the motor is running, but not developing any power? It fails under load? If this is correct, and it is not overheating or smoking I would respectfully suggest that the speed controller IS the fault, rather than the motor. I would go through with a multimeter to check the field windings continuity and resistance, and also a visual check of the soldering of the armature wires into the commutator. No point in replacing the motor till you know it is definitely at fault. When these motors fail they usually emit lots of magic smoke. flashes and bangs. I assume the speed control is electronic, and electronics made down to a price is bad news after the initial warranty period! wink

Good luck with it!

Phil

Phil Whitley09/02/2016 21:02:29
avatar
1533 forum posts
147 photos

What you really need is a "growler" to test the armature, repeat after me.

"At the electrical repair shop"

Bonjour Monsieur, ave vous un grondeur pour tester mon armature.disgust

Douglas St.Denny09/02/2016 21:10:54
12 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 09/02/2016 21:02:29:

What you really need is a "growler" to test the armature, repeat after me.

"At the electrical repair shop"

Bonjour Monsieur, ave vous un grondeur pour tester mon armature.disgust

LOL...

Douglas St.Denny09/02/2016 21:13:08
12 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 09/02/2016 20:53:20:

Hi all, Can I just jump in here and suggest that the motor be tested direct on to the mains, without the speed controller in circuit. It sounds like the brushes are good, and the comm is smooth and clean, and the motor is running, but not developing any power? It fails under load? If this is correct, and it is not overheating or smoking I would respectfully suggest that the speed controller IS the fault, rather than the motor. I would go through with a multimeter to check the field windings continuity and resistance, and also a visual check of the soldering of the armature wires into the commutator. No point in replacing the motor till you know it is definitely at fault. When these motors fail they usually emit lots of magic smoke. flashes and bangs. I assume the speed control is electronic, and electronics made down to a price is bad news after the initial warranty period! wink

Good luck with it!

Phil

Thanks Phil,

The first thing I did was the "sniff" test. No smell at all. Then visual inspection for scorching/burning broken wires, melted bits or oozing resin. Nada.

I spent significant time with my multi meter checking connections etc. Tomorrow I will attach it directly to the house wiring and report the results, if still alive afterwards.

Douglas

Edited By Douglas St.Denny on 09/02/2016 21:15:12

Martin Connelly11/02/2016 14:56:20
avatar
2549 forum posts
235 photos

I know the motor seems to run fine with no load but struggles when loaded. I would check the brushes are not worn to the limit where they make some contact but not enough for high current. Brushes worn to the limit will give the problems you have and may be a cheap and easy fix. You can nearly always find a suitable brush even if it needs filling down to fit the brush holder. Check to see if the spring pushing on the brushes is hitting a part of the holder or if the connecting link wires (if the brushes have them) are not pulled up tight.

Martin

duncan webster11/02/2016 15:35:09
5307 forum posts
83 photos

There seems to be more posts about brushed motors and electronic speed controllers than anything else. On my little Perris I have a 3 phase motor and inverter, both industrial quality. When I bought the lathe it had a sewing machine motor, waste of time, putting on a cut slowed it down alarmingly. I replaced that with a Parvalux squirrel cage, much better, but then I got hold of the 3 phase motor as a swap and it's never been better. If you can dump the Chinese motor and fit a proper one you'll not be sorry!

clogs13/02/2016 17:54:29
630 forum posts
12 photos

Douglas, private message me ...it may be of interest....

clogs

Howard Lewis13/02/2016 18:42:14
7227 forum posts
21 photos

Coming in late, others have raised the possibility of the brushes needing replacement.

(My big Bosch pistol drill ran perfectly, and then next time refused to start. New brushes and as good as new! Fortunately, the comm was undamaged)

Also, during your checks with the meter, did you check continuity across the windings on EVERY commutator segment? If one winding was open circuit, it would have trouble starting, on that position, and be down on power. I have even heard a motor with a burned out winding knock once it was set running.

Just a thought, as a non electrician.

Howard

Douglas St.Denny13/02/2016 19:08:03
12 forum posts
Posted by Howard Lewis on 13/02/2016 18:42:14:

Coming in late, others have raised the possibility of the brushes needing replacement.

(My big Bosch pistol drill ran perfectly, and then next time refused to start. New brushes and as good as new! Fortunately, the comm was undamaged)

Also, during your checks with the meter, did you check continuity across the windings on EVERY commutator segment? If one winding was open circuit, it would have trouble starting, on that position, and be down on power. I have even heard a motor with a burned out winding knock once it was set running.

Just a thought, as a non electrician.

Howard

Thanks Howard. The brushes are fine. Still plenty long. The springs are ok too. I connected it directly to the mains as was suggested earlier, and the devil ran like it should ! Now I'm thinking a fault in the controller, as was suggested earlier, and which I didn't think was possible.

In any case, I'm a happy camper, playing with a toy that will someday actually work. In the mean time, I'm enjoying the detective work, meeting interesting and helpful people here and generally being happy to be on this side of the dirt.

I am sure I can dig up a controller for a test that can handle the 150W. Even a foot pedal controller from a sewing machine. My wife's machine for example. Please don't tell her...

Douglas in cool and very windy Feytis.

Phil Whitley14/02/2016 17:41:45
avatar
1533 forum posts
147 photos

Good news Douglas, have you been inside the speed controller yet? Could be an idea to refit the motor and run the motor with the cover off the speed control (fingers clear!!) if this is possible, you will then pick up any arcing dry joints. After that check for any browned components, then check smoothing/suppression capacitors for leakage, BUT, you can probably get a new speed control to handle the wattage of this motor far easier than the fault finding!

Phil

Phil Whitley14/02/2016 17:43:50
avatar
1533 forum posts
147 photos

Just thought of something, the most likely component to wear out rather than fail is the potentiometer in the speed control, and that can be tested directly with your multimeter!

Phil

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