Member postings for terry callaghan

Derek, I think you have hit the nail on the head. But one thing remains to be looked at to make this work. As the locomotive turns a bend so the cap between it and the tender gets wider or shorter. This could be around an inch or more on my loco. So to allow for this movement some sort of movement most be allowed in the extension. I have been thinking of a slide made up of two flats around two inches long. One slide would have a slot in it, the other two pins that run along the slot allowing for the reduction of length needed or the increasing length due to the movement of the locomotive as it takes the bend. I have ordered some uj joints that can take 6mm rod. Maybe a bit overkill but I don’t want torque bend. It’s not the rotation speed that worry’s me, it’s the torque that is needed to move the reverser.

Hi Derek, yes I know the ones you mean. Will take a look, thanks for that input. Good idea.

Hi, yesterday I looked at a few flexi cables, but they all had torque bend, bar the very large ones. So I had a look in Halfords. I picked up a few 1/4 inch uj joints and think that in the end this will be a better bet. Will update as I go along with the project. Thanks for input.

Thanks chaps, some good ideas. I don’t think an electric motor will work Duncan as it’s too near the firebox door. My worry with smaller flex cables is that they bend up if there is too much torque applied. The reverser does take some effort to move. I am going to a garden machine repair shop today to see what’s available. Will get back.

Hi simon, will take a look, thanks.

Hi chaps. I need to add an extension to the reverser, as the tender is 3 foot long and there is know way I will be able to operate this control. I will need to add a few u/j joints to the hex side of the reverser to allow me to operate this control from behind the tender. As anyone some good idea of the best way to do this, thanks. Michael

Thanks.

Hi chaps, I understand the need for an axle pump to need a bypass valve, but does a tender hand pump need one. It my sound a silly question, but I am having a brain not working week.

Thanks I will take a look.

hi chaps, today I took out a battery locomotive I am trying to sort out. I have fitted a 750w motor which works well. However the old bevel gears which look like they came from an old hand drill make a lot of noise and have a lot of wear. Can anyone please let me know of a company that I can purchase new gears from. Also is it normal for bevel gears to make a sort of rumble noise when in use, which is a bit to noisy for my liking. Thanks

hi chaps. Ok I am building a 7 1/4 battery locomotive. It’s steam outline. I am planing on using a Chinese 750w 36v motor. But as anyone who knows these motors finding sprockets to suit is not easy. So if some kind person could please let me know who sells sprockets and chain to suit these motors it would help a lot. Also what size ratio should I be looking for. It’s not for pulling loads of people, maybe just upto two. Thanks

I made a bad mistake last night and now my pillar drill as stopped working. I overlooked that my battery charger was still plugged into the extension lead along with pillar drill when I turned on the power. The charger clamps had made contact. The fuse was blown on the extension lead which I replaced. But now the pillar drill will not work. I have checked with a electrical wire tester and power is going to the drill motor and the switch. Is there a fuse inside the meddling drill, or have I blown the motor. If it’s the motor who supplies replacement ones. Thanks, michael

Hi Robert, here are further readings.

Black to brown. 3.9

ground to green/brown. Ol

case to black. 1.3

case to brown. Ol.

thanks, michael

Hi Dave. Ok these are the figures. Black to green/yellow=8 ohms. Brown to green/yellow 4.5 decreasing. So with this new info. How or should I wire my two controller wires. Thanks, michael

Hi, yes I do have a multi meter. There are two of these dynamos wired so that one works forward and the other for reverse. I only wish to wire up one dynamo. So Dave if I am reading you correctly.both brown and green/yellow wires to positive and black to earth.

Ron I do have a 2nd loco that I am going to fit in the 500w motor and 36v. I need to purchase a L/H tap tomorrow from Tracy tools to be able to fit the old chain gear to the new motor. But that’s a difference project from this one. I am keeping the old dynamo on this one as I don’t have time available to make or find new fittings for a new motor, so would just like to get this working to use over the next few months.

Thanks Nigel. Lots of input. I have spoken to a chap using a Bowden cable for regulator and it clipped onto the rear wall of the tender. However as you stated the injector controls would be a lot harder to deal with. I like the idea of placing the tender controls at the rear. Thanks. Michael

Hi, thanks for getting back. But it’s not about being a cheapskate, it’s about knowing how to wire it up to a two wire feed. It did work on 12v. So I just need to know which two wires to use.

Hi. Not to sure that would work due to the heat, and I would always worry about fire from the firebox catching any servos.

Hi, I am trying to wire a controller to this motor. The controller as a live and negative outlet wire . But the motor as three wires. Can anyone please let me know which wire connects to which. Thanks

hi. I am coming to the end of my Martin Evans designed Columbia, and need some help. The tender is very long and there is no way I will be able to get to the controls. I have figured a way to extend the regulator by using a Bowden cable. But what is the best way to extend the injector valves. Thanks.