Member postings for Trevor Wright

Carl,

Message sent.

Trevor

No picture here either, just a blank box.

Web-site is flying now so something has worked right....

trevor

Your machine is the Warco equivalent of my Clarke mill....

My preference would be to hack out the middle with a 12mm end mill vertically - Like chain drilling - to within 1mm of all edges.

Fit a 6mm end mill and and plunge mill on the 4 corners leaving about 0.2mm on each edge. Machine one end of the pocket to the edge of the plate finished, the same to a perpendicular edge. Then machine the slot to width both ways. This method means that you don't have a problem with backlash. Then clean up the bottom face.

By roughing out vertically it prevents swarf clogging the tool and the machine is more rigid than winding bed handles.

Trevor

Would also recommend sandwiching the plates as a 10mm drill will roll burrs if not razer sharp. It will not be sharp for long either if you run the drill speed too fast. If they burr you will spend even more time removing them....

Packing them 50 deep will work but you will need to keep the drill point cool, downside is the pilot drills will almost certainly wander as it will keep hitting 51 skins of plate, the bottom plate could be a long way out of position as the larger drills will follow the original hole.

If drilling on a mill I would recommend drilling 3/8" (9.5mm) and sizing with a 10mm end mill, if sharp, it will leave a size hole and the edges will be razer sharp and burr free, it will also align any errors caused from drill wander.

Trevor

Is the problem the chuck body running out or the jaws?

Clock the main diameter of the chuck, if it runs out then check/clean the mountings. If the body runs true then the error is with the jaws.

Refer to Neils post previously...........

Trevor

Had to make some extended drills for working in deep holes. Drilled the end of a bar with an ordinary drill, turned it round and bonded the shank of the drill in the hole just cut with 601 (603 now). The drill would break before the joint, in fact removing the broken drill with heat would fire the shank out of the bore like a bullet.

In my experience, a decent running fit with all faces degreased will give a superb bond.

Trevor

Thanks Neil.....too late to edit now though.

trevor

Set fire to a lathe in exactly the same fashion as Graham first time machining Titanium. Thought it was quite pretty when the swarf was igniting until I realised the swarf in the tray was going up - luckily had flood coolant going and doused it. Taken more care and kept tools razer sharp ever since.

Have seen Titanium welded and can only assume the lack of Oxygen prevents ignition, or maybe the swarf was getting hotter than the temperature used for welding.

Trevor

There are more images on my album, no doubt there are dimensions missing and someone will inform me, but post and I will supply the missing information.

Have added this as I cannot add text below a picture.

Trevor

Marcel,

Have added dimensions to photos of the Stop-block, the perspective of the pictures is confusing but the faces the dimensions are attached to are true.

Edited By Trevor Wright on 19/10/2014 16:04:43

Marcel,

Started to dimension the stop but the angles were too difficult to measure accurately, was waiting for someone to ask.....looks like I will have to now lol.

Give me a couple of days to dismantle and measure.

Trevor

Sorry, should explain it better....

I was looking for thread details for NPTF threads this morning and this site "Gerwinde-normen" came up and I was amazed at the detail and threads covered.

Trevor

Came across this web-site this morning with every thread I have ever heard of and some I hadn't - including an "ME model engineering thread"

**LINK**

Trevor

The problem of cutters pulling to one side happens all the way up to the largest of machines. Slots should be milled as mentioned earlier with smaller tools and finished to size cutting one face only.

I worked for several years a machine bigger than my garage and never cut a clean slot in one go no matter how big the cutter. When you are using "hobby" mills, although they look pretty tough, the structure can flex under heavy loads so the;

0.1mm quill play + tool deflection + machine deflection

will account for the rough shape and finish of your slots. Once you accept the problem, working around it becomes the norm.

Trevor

As an apprentice and miller at the ROF Nottingham in the seventies my safety boots had red caps with the arrow on each toe-cap.......

Trevor

Mike,

email sent.

Trevor

Have contacted Neil, just waiting for a reply to get details of how to present the photos/pdfs

Trevor

Mike,

Do you want a flow regulator or pressure regulator?

The paintball description is a pressure regulator but the others shown are flow regulators. The difference being a flow regulator will match the inlet pressure if the outlet flow is shut off, but a pressure regulator will hold the 6 bar you require.

I make some pressure regulators for another hobby as there is no equivalent that can handle the flow rates we require, without freezing up.

Will post some pictures if any one is interested. You are welcome to the plans - have tried to get them made elsewhere but with no success. They are about 75mm x Ø30 and weigh 100grams.

Trevor

I go along with John but would grind a rake of around 15-20°, slow the speed and flood coolant or WD40. Rough to size with tips but use this tool to generate a nice finish.

Have cut the stuff with carbide tips but you need an industrial size machine to cope with the loads and speeds, and collars buttoned and sleeves down if you don't want some serious burns - the one down an open shirt is not pleasant as it burns all the way down as you waft the shirt. Or it burns into the skin and does the fingers as you frantically try to extricate it. You very quickly work out where not to stand.........

Trevor

Edited By Trevor Wright on 30/06/2014 12:54:13

We had a "real effect" fire that was used very rarely, but turned it on one cold night when the central heating went down.

Within minutes I was feeling giddy and sick but had the presence to consider CO so turned the fire off and opened the outside door. Was fine in 20 mins.

Had the flue checked and the gas man shone a torch up the flue and could see the light through the wallpaper, the flue and plaster had cracked but the paper stretched.

The fire has gone and the flue blocked up, but still gives me the shivers, had I not been aware of CO I and the kids - asleep upstairs - would have been goners

Trevor