Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Hi Chris,

Is the stock you used round and parralell ?

It may be a high spot on the stock so i would turn a peice up and use a tailstock centre for some extra support.

Once turned round and parralell mount the peice up in the 4 jaw on this newly turned surface and center it up as close to the chuck as possible then repeat your runout test, also put a texta mark on the chuck where the worst runout occurs then loosen two jaws and rotate the test peice 90 deg and see if the runout follows the test peice.

If it does the the test peice is at fault ,if not then you have just located the approx area on the chuck that is causing the runout and you can now focus on that area, if it lnes up directly with one jaw there can be issues with how it was machined etc.

If you still have problems you could use some engineers blue on the jaws then very lightly mount the peice up again on that turned section and give it a twist so it leaves some blue on the test peice to see if you have a high spot on the inside of the jaws that will show up as a shiny spot.

If you do have a high spot there are ways of fixing using a die grinder mounted up in the toolpost but we will deal with that after you check everything else.as there are other things that can cause this problem you are having some can be fixed some can't

Ian

Check the drive rollers ,the rollers for steel wire have knurled grooves and this may be worn or you may have a set for aluminium in there they have smooth grooves ..

I remember using a mig with a long torch lead and had to make sure the lead was as straight as possible between the machine and torch ( not twisted ,curled up or bent aruond the welding bench etc) as this caused no end of trouble.

Ian

Full face shield, dust mask ,ear muffs / plugs ,leather gloves long sleeves & trousers or overalls and boots .

If you need to grind or cut something that will see sparks flying up over your head a cap on backwards will help keep the sparks off you head and help to stop them going down the back of your neck .

Make sure you know where the sparks are going to go and if possible do it outside the workshop the dust will settle on everything and is no fun to clean up.

The main thing is take your time let the weight of the grinder do the work especially when cutting , you will get the hang of it pretty quickly .

Is it possible that it is a peice of alloy steel of the work hardening type , the stuff they make jail cells out of comes to mind.

Try a new drill bit on some aluminium , it should drill easily with two nice even swarf curls coming off the drill.

I have a few sets of cheapie drills and most are ok but some have had the ends ground by a blind monkey and i have one where the outside of the flutes has not been relieved ( if you look at a drill bit the outside diameter is relieved along the flute to minimise contact area) you should try drilling a hole with that drill !

Make sure the drill is turning in the right direction , you won't be the first or last person to run a drill in reverse or have a left hand drill bit in the chuck !

Ian

It is a simple scotch yoke drive and a home made version would not be difficult .

One thing i would do is sort out something so i could adjust the stroke though.an old faceplate of a lathe could be used for the table .

Thanks Raymond ,

The machinery show in september looks interesting !

Ian

Dunno whats on out there ?

I thought they had a model show early july?

Just found another - suburban tool inc , oddly enough i was having a look at one channel i forgot to mention (shadon hkw) and somehow got re- directed to suburban tool but i aint complaining!

Hi Raymond,

Good too see another Aussie making videos , up until now Bruce whitham was the only one i have seen .

Ian

Sounds like an aussie ?

Just watched one of the videos ( making a large wheel skeleton clock part 1)and noticed he uses a little tiny spade type drill to make a small dimple for starting a drill in instead of a centre punch ? Seemed to work exceptionally well !

Never even thought of using a ball type carbide rotary burr to de- burr a drilled hole !

Ian

I subscribe to quite a few youtube channels and after. Watching a new one if i like what i see i subscribe ,if i don't i move on .

Usually a channel ( double boost for instance) will show who they subscribe to and usually if the videos they make are good the ones they subscribe to will be likewise.

Here is a few to check out , mostly machining but some model engineering content / interest on some also:

Abom79

Oxtoolco

Doubleboost

Myfordboy

Keith fenner

Mrpete222

Thatlazymachinist

Nyccnc

Keith rucker

Stefan gotteswinter

Randyrichard

Outsidescrewball

Bruce whitham

They may or may not be your flavour but i find most of what they do interesting although watching what some one has bought at a flea market can get a little tedious so you will have to sift through to find what you like.

Last one is AVE (arduinoversesevil) this guy is usually pulling something apart to see what makes it tick or blowing something up ! May not be your cup of tea and watch the language !

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 31/07/2015 02:43:50

So you can't use the meter to test it's own batteries !

Ian

Hi Nick,

As mentioned above it is a thrust bearing and there will or should be two end discs with a groove ground in one face that the balls ride in .

You will need outside diameter , inside diameter and total thickness of the bearing with the two discs fitted to allow the bearing supplier to find what you need .

You mentioned that they are worn ?

How have you determined this ? As they are not something i would have suspected to be worn out , if the balls are still running smoothly in their grooves they are probably ok - look for any corrugating in the end disc groove and check the balls out if there is no apparent damage all is good .

Ian

There are a few more things to check before you start chopping into the tail stock.

Head / spindle alignment in regards to the lathe bed, you needs to check that the centre line of the spindle is parralell to the bed of the lathe as the spindle nose could be high / low or skewing off either side so check and correct this first.

I found on my C2 seig that there were burrs under the head stock where it contacts the bed causing the head to sit higher at the rear also check around the bolt holes that the mounting bolts for the head screw in.

Once you have that sorted then turn your attention to the tail stock and i would mount a dial test indicator up in the chuck and use that to sweep around the tail stock barrel , then just as a precaution i would fit a dead centre in the tail stock to confirm that the bore is concentric the the outside, if the barrel is no more that a couple of thou high that is fine but not low

I have read somewhere (may have been another forum or magazine) about shimming the head to correct alignment issues and it seemed to be a very tedious operation at best but they had no choice as the head was so out of kilter the lathe was unusable.

I also had issues with the carriage being sticky but mine was caused by paint under the gear rack which i scraped off and now the carriage is nice and smooth to operate also my apron already has a roller bearing for the hand wheel which surprised me !

As the apron can be removed without loosening the saddle you could mount the apron up on your face plate , lock the saddle down on the bed and use the cross and compound slides to allow you to bore out the hand wheel bore and fit a bushing or bearing.

Ian.

Because the offer will soon end but newcomers may still reply to a long dead thread and they will keep messaging you !

If you want to advertise that offer in a thread then create one and i'm sure the many of the forum members along with myself will be happy to keep bumping it to the top until notified otherwise.

I originally only created this thread ( didn't see the what have you done thread )as i was concerned that there was something awry and i don't know about you but when I see a popup with some unbelievable offer i get suspicious , i have just gone through the hassle of credit card fraud i thought it may be something dodgy.

I agree and maybe one of the Moderators could lock this thread or it might keep popping up - pun intended !

Ian.

You can modify a grease gun to pump oil , Guy Leutard ( hope i spelt that right !) put out an article called a breif treatise on machine oiling and you get the plans for the oil gun mods.

Basically it is to modify the clip on nozzle but i just welded up the the part that holds the grease cartridge to make it into an oil canister , remove all of the spring plunger unit that pushes on the grease and left the nozzle as set for grease - works for me !

You can get some leakage around the zerk but i find it is minimal and wasn't worth worrying about.

Ian

I wasn't putting you down Ketan i thought you may have had some inside info on Noga or something !

I have quite a few Chinese made mag bases most are ok two i had to take a skim of in the mill to get them to sit flat and considering the cost difference between the Chinese units and a Noga a few minutes work on the mill vastly improved the much cheaper unit.

Yep sure if you are using the damned thing all day every day the Noga is a unit that you would but for most model engineers it is a sort of status symbol or something .

Martin,

Try also CTC tools in China they seem to make just about everything and everything i have purchased from them was very well made

Ooops pushed the wrong button there.

I was just curious as i didn't know if it was put there by admin or was a virus or something .

There is plenty of space on the homepage for advertising offers like this and pop ups could deter newcomers from returning as you never know what is lurking behind one - click the little x and download a trojan .

Ian.

Hi ,

Has anyone else copped this pop up ad for 3 issues of Mew/ ME for 1£ ?

Ian

I was always led to believe that Noga are made in Israel .

I would love one but the cost is a killer !

Ian.

If you find slide way oil to be a little expensive or hard to get in smaller quantities like 5 litres then try chain bar oil for a chainsaw , it has the same tackifiers as slide way oil is readily available and works well .

Not a big fan of grease on feed screws as it tends to dry out making the machine feel stiff to operate so i now use chain bar oil on these as well and a few seconds with an oilcan and a clean pait brush is all that is needed on my X2 mill . My larger mill uses an oil gun as i have fitted grease nipples and cut oil grooves in the slide ways so a qiuck pump on these and a squirt from my oil can for the feed screws keeps me going for a couple of days .