Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Must be for a late model Adept Super !

Yes it is common especially on very small machines.

The cutting forces tend to push the workpiece and cutting tool in oppsite directions to each other .

Provided the tool is not digging in on the reverse pass i would not worry too much about it .

There are other factors to consider such as how much the work piece is sticking out of the chuck , the more stick out the less ridgid the more flex & what material you are cutting etc

The easy way is to not worry about the return or spring cut on roughing cuts but only machine in one direction on finishing cuts then retract the cross slide (after noting or zeroing the setting on the dial or dro) and return the carriage to the start position ready for the next pass .

When i get to around .005 in or 0.1 mm above finish size i usually take a spring cut or two ,after zeroing the cross feed dial or dro ( digital readout ) i retract the cross slide 1 turn of the feed handle , return to the start of the cut , return the dial or dro to zero by feeding back in the 1 turn i wound out and run a pass this gets rid if any flex or springing of the workpiece and machine and usually gets me very close to finish size.

You will learn with experience where to stop your roughing cuts an it may be as much as .010 inch above finish size as the ridgidity of the workpiece will vary with diameter and how far it is sticking out of the chuck.

The compact lathe by Stan Bray & lathe work a complete course by Harold Hall are two books i would recommend and you could try youtube there may be some stuff on there about the Sherline but you may only find people showing off their modifications. Most of the stuff on youtube is with much larger more ridgid machines so the return cut is less of an issue .

Hope this helps !

Ian

Hi Ian,

no controller just a motor but you can get controllers on Ebay from China like the one i used to test the motor cost around $50 each from memory , there are a few on there but the one you need is a pc board approx 100 x 100 mm and pot not the one in the plastic box that is advertized as being a 240v dc controller as it didn't work .

I'm not sure what they are out of i was just browsing on Ebay and found them under treadmill motor , maybe they are from a small unit for exersizing your pet ?

I ave a 1-1/2 hp unit here also but it is too big for such a small lathe like the taig , i was originally going to buy a motor from a C2 or X2 mill but they will run you around $200 -$300 without a controller .

Ian.

Just picked up two motors for $40 au  each - brand new on Ebay.

Thought i would mention them incase there are any small lathe owners in Australia that want to convert to DC .

Can't vouch for how long they will last but mine fired up ok and is destined for my taig lathe .

Name on them is healthmate.

They post to Australia only or p/up Seven hills in Sydney.

No connection with them what so ever and i only stumbled upon them yesterday , not sure how many they have either.

Not going to add photos etc as all you have to do is search Ebay Australia for treadmill motor - Australia only and you should find them easily enough.

Motors physical size similar to the motor on my X2 mill .

The shaft has two flat sides but is big enough in diameter to turn down to 10mm which will give 95- 100 % clean up .

They also have no inbuilt fan but a 100mm computer fan would probably suffice .

If this is in the wrong topic moderators please move it to where you see fit.

Forgot to mention the brushes are on the centre line of the commutator so  motor should be reversible , there are no rotation direction markings either  

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 17/11/2015 02:41:33

Edited By XD 351 on 17/11/2015 02:45:12

I had a similar problem but maybe not as bad as yours and i was getting about twenty cuts to a blade on 50x50x2RHS with the standard type blade - starrett brand , approx double this with a bi- metal blade from a local manufacturer.

I stripped the saw down and gave it a good going through and it has now been about five years and i have replaced the bi-metal blade once due to it eventually going blunt after how many cuts i know not but it would be over a 100 for certain.

So what did i find was wrong with the saw during the rebuild ?

1: the idler wheel did not run true on its axle radially or axially and the bush was a very loose fit on the axle

2: both wheels were tapered where the blade runs

3: the idler wheel was not on the same plane as the drive wheel -it actually sat high by around a millimeter .

4: the drive shaft and the idler wheel shaft were not parrallel , this can be adjusted easily on my saw with the jacking bolts on the mounting bracket.

Idler wheel copped a set of bearings and skim off the OD, drive wheel was set up on a mandrel and the OD skimmed to true it up.

I shimmed the drive wheel and adjusted the idler wheel axle so a straight edge would contact the outer rims of both wheels , the straight edge is layed across both wheels as close to the centre as possible (basically the same way you lighn up vee pulleys or sprockets etc) .

Back off all the guide rollers and set the blade up so it just about touches the back lip on the idler and drive wheel , you just want it to have a few thousandths clearance and not trying to chug its way through it, run it under power to let the blade settle on the idler & drive wheels .

Set up your guide rollers so they just touch the blade , With the power off and the saw unplugged grab a roller between two fingers in you should be able to get it to slip and rotate with a little resistance - if they are too tight you will be swageing the blade between the side rollers which will kill both the blade and roller in short order.

The rollers that ride on the blades spine are there to stop the blade bending like a bannana so if theyre too tight they will fight against the drive& idler wheels as they control the blade tracking not the rear guide bearings , if these bearings force the blade forward it will not track correctly on the drive/ idler wheel and the usuall incorrect fix is to adjust the idler wheel tracking adjustment .

All this will do is force the blade to bow and break, so wheel tracking first then set the guide rollers up

Don't use too much down feed pressure its just more stress on the blade and i usuall find the cut will wander all over the place.

Neil is correct that pokey little knob for blade tension will probably break before you over tension the blade but if the saw is going to sit unused for a while you should back off the tension and i usually put a tag on the switch to remind myself that i have done this .

There have been a few articles in MEW about these saws with some excellent modifications - may be worth checking them out.

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 02/11/2015 03:22:40

Watch out for clones of the mitutoyo callipers and dti's you can check on thier website for what to look for to pick a clone from genuine.

Buy from a reputable tool store and you should have no problems , stay away from the ebay ones some sellers use a photo of genuine set but supply a clone which is difficult to pick from the real mcoy if you dont know what to look for.

Starrett are another good item but i feel not as nice as mitutoyo , they just seem to feel a fraction smoother but the accuracy is identical.

I just scored a set of 6 inch starrett callipers , brand new for $99 au so saved about $100 .

I have a few items made by measumax and they seem ok although none of my items are electronic .

Ian

The first thing i noticed was they are welding bacwards with the mig and tig .

The second thing inoticed is they seem to be free standing and the first thing my tech teacher taught me was to brace myself any way i could , sit down ,lean against something use both hands on the mig and stick welders etc.

In the real world conditions are seldom perfect and i don't know how that programme would show stick welding rod when it nibs on you ( a small peice of the flux coating breaks off one side of the rod ) this causes the arc to blow out to one side ,usually causes a slag hole and loss of penetration .

So what do you do ?

Stop, clean the weld crater up and do a restart . Peg that rod in the bin mand check the next rod for cracked flux coating .

What does the computer do ? Probably nothing!

Ian

His name is John Mills and i have been a subscriber for close to a year he makes excellent videos about all sorts of stuff including some steam rallys .

He scored a Harrison lathe recently and it is in mint condition ,a nice upgrade from his Boxford !

If you check out his liked videos it will lead you to a whole new universe of machining , welding and steam youtubers and there was a forum thead only recently that has a list as long as your arm of youtube vidoes .

I'm currently looking at archival videos especially about locomotives , one i watched recently was about reconditioning a steam loco - i found the video fascinating !

Ian

I agree fully , we have never had it so easy - with a few clicks of a mouse button you have a new welder and while you wait in anticipation of its delivery you can litterally gorge your self on welding videos but there is a catch!

Not every one will get the hang of it easily ,some may never , some take years .

Nothing will ever replace the one on one coaching you get at a technical college or by an experienced welder /boilermaker , they can see the little mistakes and help you rectify them in real time - youtube can't .

If you have a local coolege or shool that has night classes i highly reccommend looking at them , it doesn't matter if you're 20 or 70 years old you will learn something and make a few freinds along the way .

Ian

That must be one messy lathe !

What brand / make is it John?

Hi Martin,

You could of course copy one of the engines you already have , this will give you an idea as to the general layout required and from there you could begin to design your own engines .

I would start with a two stroke as there are fewer parts and no camshaft or valvetrain to give you grief.

Ian.

I would say it has taper bearings on the spindle and they would be greased so you won't need to touch them for a long time .

My chinees made lathe ran for many years with the stock bearings without even adjusting the spindle and only got a new set of timken bearings because i had to strip the carriage down to sort some issues there so i though i may as well do the head up as well.

My suggestion would be to leave them alone unless you are having problems like overheating or the spindle is loose etc .

Ian.

There was an update for newstand a few months back and i had to re do my subscription details to get access and to re load the back issues.

Total PIA !!!!!

Maybe check your settings for cookies  ?

Is your ipad up to date with the operating system  and ap updates ?

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 13/09/2015 09:10:09

Good too see your kids are keen on making things !

I think you need projects that are fairly quick to make and not too complex so i would start with a simple wobbler engine and you could make it from wood or metal.

If you make such an engine you could then make a very rudimentary traction engine from wood then mount the engine on that and use an airline from a compressor to run the engine ( no boiler ) the drive system is just a rubber band as a drive belt to drive one wheel.

Ian

Ok back to the OP,

Search online for liquid waste disposal companies that handle industrial liquid waste .

I work for a company here in Australia ca lled Veolia which is French owned , i'm not 100% certain but i think that name is world wide i know they used to be called Onyx and operate in the U.K so try them.

It will cost you to get rid of it but such a small quantity shouldn't cost much .

Ian

Good to see something for an X1 mill ,not that i own one but a mill like that could really compliment a micro workshop along with a sherline or taig lathe even the C0 or C1 seig.

Looking forward to it !

Ian

I don't live in the UK but Machinist 4u or custom parts 4u is what i would call it if there isn't some one else using the same name.

I am not 100% sure but in google there may be something like catagory setting so searches willl link to your site.

Sounds like an interesting and usefull website though!

Ian

That was amazing ! Thanks Nick i love watching videos like that !

Could you imagine trying to build that loco today it would take a year to sort the OHS issues !

Ian.

The last mini bike i built used a victa mower engine that had a taper on the shaft but the clutch was parralell shaft so i made an adapter from an old crankshaft that had the correct diameter parralell shaft to fit the clutch .

I'm surprised that the whacker doesn't have some way to disengage the engine from the whacker drive shaft/belt to make it easier to start..

Gunna be a noisy bugger though !

You could also sell it on or trade it for a horizontal shaft 4 stroke engine that will fit v pulleys or centrifugal clutches more easily.

I was lucky with my metal working classes at high school as my teacher was more than happy to let me use the machinery to make parts for my own bikes, he even used them for my grades as they were usually harder to make than the class projects !

Ian

You of course will need to create an album and upload your pictures to that album before you can insert them in the post.

Once logged in click albums at the top of page in the green bar and click create album and name it , you can then upload your photos to that .

From there when you are posting click the camera icon on the top right of the little box you are writing the post in( next to the smiley face icon ) and it will bring up your albums and you simply choose and add / insert picture.

Thats how i do it anyways but i bet there is some one here that has an easier way !

Looking forward to seeing your engine!

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 04/09/2015 08:08:58