Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

You could also make up a drive flange that bolts onto the handwheel easily enough and that way you are driving the shaft with a key - you don’t want to chew up the shaft .I didn’t worry about a support the drill just hangs there and i hang onto it when raising the head . If you use a drill with speed adjustment it makes it more controllable , i origionally used a battery drill and it also worked fine but they are more expensive to replace and i got sick of recharging the battery.

Bandersnatch has found the easiest way to drive it !

As model engineers how much do we really rely on lead solder ? I know i still use it for electronics work but for copper pipe i use silver solder ,some may still use it for sheet metal work etc .

With cheap printers you really need to do your homework as there are a lot of rubbish units out there .

Take a look at makers muse YouTube channel he has done a lot of reviews on many machines and as he is a professional in the 3D printing industry he knows what he is talking about .

There are a few new materials out there now that are beginning to replace abs which suffers from shrinkage really bad if you don’t use a heated enclosure , pla on the other hand is much easier to get a handle on .

Also take a look at thomas sanladerer youtube channel and cnc kitchen as there is a wealth of knowledge there especialy about filaments .

Sorry that wasn’t my intention! Please edit my post to remove that link if possible .

Try this .

https://youtu.be/ML4tw_UzqZE

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 08/11/2018 09:40:41

On my mill which is similar to the lux and it has a crank handle to wind the head up and down , the handle sits on a 1/2 inch square ended shaft so i bought a 1/2 drive - 12mm hex drive and fitted the hex into the chuck on a cheap drill and fit the 1/2 drive end over the square shaft . Works a treat !

On my mill which is similar to the lux and it has a crank handle to wind the head up and down , the handle sits on a 1/2 inch square ended shaft so i bought a 1/2 drive - 12mm hex drive and fitted the hex into the chuck on a cheap drill and fit the 1/2 drive end over the square shaft . Works a treat !

I find this mechanism simply amazing !

**LINK**

Not only that but the mathematics, tools and skill these people had way back then simply stuns me !

Dave, the devils in the detail ! If you’re going to go to the trouble of building a scale model you don’t want to ruin it by taking shortcuts or leaving out the little details that really finish it off , its a bit like spending years building a model of traction engine then whacking a set of mag wheels on it because they were easy to fit !

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 08/11/2018 09:40:07

😳

Should keep Jason busy for a few weeks making all of those !

Could make an interesting project and a bit of a change from the usual stuff model engineers tend to get into , the hard thing may be emulating the insulation on the windings as it looks like some sort of linen wrapping - looks a bit like litz wire only bigger although if you used enameled copper wire only the top layer would need the insulation for effect and maybe you could use the high temp woven stuff you see in stoves etc ? . I wonder if the patents are available so you can scale them correctly ?

The only models i have seen are usually of dynamos .

For really small tube i buy the little handy packs that some model shops stock . Have a look at emma’s spare room machine shop on youtube , if you send her a message maybe she can point you in the right direction as she makes her own boilers and is based in the Brisbane area . For larger stuff like what you want for a boiler sometimes making friends with a local plumber or gasfitter can be an advantage , they usually collect offcuts to send to the scrapyerd for some pocket money.

What M.E suppliers have you tried ?

The tip of the centre drill is 80 thou .

Here i drilled four holes , two at 1mm and the other two at 2mm

The top set were done with the centre drill the others with the tool at the bottom ( windy windy thingy ) the tip mounted in the handle fits inside the 2mm hole - just and the top tool is the triangle scraper which is around 2mm across the flats .

Results are the bottom picture .

IIRC i have used it down to 2 - 2.5 mm , there are some small tips in the set and the cone shaped windy windy deburring tool - that is magic on holes up to around 3/8 . It also has a small triangle scraper that you could stick the point in a small hole and give it a twirl . For really small holes i use the point of a flash hole deburring tool made by redding, it is just a very small centre drill in a holder that plugs into handle . Not 100% sure but i think the tip of the centre drill is somewhere around 60 thou .

Should buy you enough space to stand a drill bit on its end 😁

The noga platinum set i have has tips for de- burring just about anything and does it with ease so i will stick to that .

3D taster or a universal boring and facing head , a Wohlhaupter would be nice though 500 sqiud wont get near it !

Gear cutters , broaches and milling cutters are always welcome .

To answer the OP question in short buy a plunger type first , don’t buy an expensive unit until you have some experience using them as they are easily damaged . I for the most part use cheap Chinese made units for the most part unless the part i’m makining calls for high precision then i dig out the compac .

You can use a plunger type indicator on the lathe to indicate a bore or hole using a dead centre but thats another story and starrett also do a clamp on unit to allow a plunger type gauge to indicate a bore .

Now lets throw the cat amongst the pigeons ! Let’s talk magnetic indicator stands as you will also need one of these and they range from high quality units that are a pleasure to use down to damned awful . Skimping here will just cause you headaches and there is no use having a quality indicator on a crap indicator stand , Eclipse , starrett , mitutoyo are all good as is noga - especially if you want one of those stands that has one locking knob to lock the arm ( I’m not a fan of them personally and prefer the one that a youtuber called stefan gotteswinter made for himself ) . If you buy anything mitutoyo make sure you buy from a certified distributor as there are clones of most of the mitutoyo stuff .

Spring pre load is also variabale over time as the spring can loose tension .

With a mill , lathe or surface grinder even a thou or two of end float can cause issues or dig ins . If the OP uses angular contact bearing or a normal bearing with thrust bearings behind them and sets the spindle up with some pre load he will be ok , i set them up using a dti to just eliminate any end float then turn the adjustment nut 1/16 of a turn then lock it and have never had an issue with any of the lathes , mills and grinders i have rebuilt - i have never seen a wavy washer in these machines except in the motor and if i ever find a machine with these fitted they will be coming out ! If the OP uses a thread on the spindle with 40tpi he can essentially set the retaining nut up as a micrometer adjustable type by making a nut with a collar scribed with 25 equally divided lines so endfloat adjustment can be achieved with a resolution of 0.001 “ or better .

Yes have seen many home made units but unless you are going to turn a lot of tapers the expense and hassle is not worh it and many think you just look at the scale and set it to what you want and bobs your uncle mother but it doesn’t work like that , there are other factors at play especially if your machine has some wear and tear .

A boring head is probably the easiest out of the lot and has othe uses on a lathe and mill so one tool can cover a few jobs , a taper attachment is only good for the lathe it is fitted to ..

Wavy washers and belville wshers wil give you pre load but not control over end float .

You will see them used in electric motors where endfloat is not critical and to some extent desirable , look at things like lathes and mills where end float is critical they use either taper roller , angular contact or thrust bearings to keep endfloat in check .

I would be looking at either single row roller bearings with inboard thust bearings or angular contact bearings provided you can get them to handle the speed range you want. Polishing the spindle to get a nice firm push fit is reasonably easy so set up the housing as the press fit or loctite retained . Only the inner of the bearing on the adjustment nut end needs to be a little looser , A light to moderate tap fit is what you want and on assembly i would nip everything up lightly and run it until it comes up to a stable operating temperature then adjust the endfloat using a dti and the retaining nut ( should have a lock nut also )

Edited By XD 351 on 30/10/2018 12:08:18

I indicate the bore not the outside diameter as that is where action is at ! You have no guarantee that the bore is concentric and another reason to indicate is the tailstock barrel can be high or low and coaxial indiction will show that up .