Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Its the drive pulley , if you click on photos under my avatar you will find a file  named C2-2 there are more photos in there on the set up.

Edited By XD 351 on 02/04/2019 00:53:45

Always get a good laugh from TOT! Must admit I hadn’t seen that video before.

That would be one way of pre heating the parts to be welded , on big jobs try acetylene as it provid s more heat and if you want more bang for your buck Hydrogen will supply that 🤪

I made new ones from aluminium and fitted a lip seal - was it worth it ? Normaly no but the,plastic ones were cracked so i had a choice of but new plastic units or make my own . I have also cross drilled from the rear of the headstock and fitted grease nipples ( zirk fittings ) so i can easily grease the bearings without disassembly the grease is forced in between the bearing and seal and exits through the bearing and into the cavity in the headstock.

My other lathe just had a steel disk on the spindle that sat in a recess in the headstock separating the bearing from the outside world and in 15 yrs of use and abuse i never had a problem with swarf or dust getting into the bearings.

Ifyou were going to run flood coolant then I would look at something like lip seals or felt wipers .

Edited By XD 351 on 01/04/2019 18:14:44

Today i had a play with some new parting tools - one from eccentric engineering and another from a local tool supplier The F.O.R tool by eccentric uses T shaped blades and the other the conventional wedge shape blade .

Both of these are mounted upside down in the toolpost ( QCTP) and i ran the lathe in reverse , if you have a screw on chuck you will have to use them in a rear toolpost . I started out with some 30mm 6061 T6 round bar running at 250rpm and neat soluable oil for cutting fluid . I followed the advice on sharpening the blades as supplid by eccentric enineering - use the side of the wheel to give a 4 deg relief , many use the front of the wheel which gives a concave grind and too much relief .

FIrst cut with the F.O.R was going ok but the chips looked like they were tearing out and not cutting well so i switched over to WD40 with an immediate improvement - the soluable oil didn’t seem to like aluminium and i also tried some trefolex ctd spray which worked ok and i repeated the same process with the other blade with similar results .

Next up was some bms at 20mm dia and as in the first test i tried the neat soluable oil and this led to my first jam up but fortunately I didn’t have the qctp clamped too tight so the holder popped up and stopped any damage ( mental note : don’t tighten the qctp lever too tight as this acted like a safety device and stopped the blade breaking ) . I reset everything and tried the ctd spray which worked better , I didn’t bother with wd40 as i never considered it as a cutting fluid for steel ( i was seriously mistaken on this ) .

Now that i seemed to have it going in the right direction I thought i better bite the bullet and try some larger dia steel , this time 40mm roundbar of unknown composition - i had machined it before so knew what it cut like . I didn’t try the soluable oil on this for the first cut as i knew from the previous tests it wasn’t the best so so ctd spray was used first .

I did the first cut in two stages with no dramas with either blade and considering the t shaped blade is only 2mm wide i was quite surprised it didnt wander or break ( i would learn a little later that this blade is one tough little blade ) and the other blade is 3/32 wide . Anyhow i parted of two disks with each blade with no issues and i did switch between ctd spray and soluable oil on both the last disks but i could hear a difference in how the blade was cutting so soluable oil went back on the shelf .

I did one last test with both blades using power cross feed and found the constant feed seemed to help a little , on the last cut using the wedge blade for sh#ts and giggles ( or possibly tears ! ) i thought i would try WD40 just to see what happens - You wouldn’t believe it but it worked better than any of the other stuff i had tried by a country mile ! I then set up the t shaped blade and tried it using WD40 and got exactly the same result so half way through i reached for some RP7 spray which caused an immediate seizure ripping the blade upwards along with the toolholder . Fortunately it didn’t damage the blade or holder but it did open my eyes ! You would think all those types,of sprays are all the same but not so ! I reset everything and started the cut again using WD40 and it cut all the way perfectly . On the last two cuts i cuts i did i cut through in one pass and was pleasantly surprised that the thin t blade came through with flying coulours ! The t blade has a slight concave grind along its top edge to help curl the chip in to clear the sides of the groove - the wedge blade has a convex v on top with the apex offset and I don’t know if this is intentional or not so i left it on there and it did seem to fold the chip and feed it out to one side of the groove .

Cutting speeds :

alloy 200- 300rpm for 30mm bar worked ok

steel 120 rpm for 20mm and 60rpm for 40mm dia ( i did switch up to 120rpm about half way through on one cut but didn’t see any gain other than alittle time saved but at the risk of a jam up so I don’t feel it to be worth it

So what did i learn from all this ?

Oils aint oils so don’t be afraid to try something else . I don’t know why WD40 worked so well on steel but RP7 caused a seizure ?

Speed isn’t everything so slow it down - with turning , speed and feed will give different surface finishes with parting it doesn’t matter I don’t think you can’t go too slow with parting .

The qctp can be used like a safety device by not cranking the locking lever closed too hard .

The relief angle on the front of the tool shouldn’t be too much , around 4 deg is more than enough will help stop dig ins , use the side of the grinding wheel to sharpen the blade not the periphery which gives a concave grind , more relief angle and a less support under the cutting edge .

If you have powered cross feed consider using it as it gives a nice even feed .

In my opinion the inverted parting tool running either at the from or the rear definitely lessens the damage caused from a dig in and it is even better if you use the qctp as a safety device .

Note: the F.O.R blade holder has a sliding wedge design so to can adjust the blade height ( about 1mm in height ) without having to use shims - this is a really handy thing for those who don’t have a Quick change tool post.

Disclaimer : i have no affiliation with any of the companies or products i have mentioed and ALL of the products mentioned were paid for by myself at full retail price .

There have been a few reports here in Australia of some testing being done on name brand vs cheap detergents , particularily on dishwasher and clothes washing detergent . Some of the reports came back stating some of the high end detergents were no better than just using water by itself ! The more a product promises usually the less it delivers .For you own personal wellbeing - listen to your missus ,failure to do so ☠️.

I don’t own an ml 10 but if i did i would be happy to buy that chuck , the thin body has advantages like keeping the work as close to the spindle bearings as possible and it keeps the rotating mass as light as possible which may help the spindle bearings on a small machine .

This link will explain what fast , mixed and slow decay rates do .

**LINK**

i think you will find 25 or 50 % will do you for a rotary table .

1 is on 0 is off ( they are using the 0 and 1 as used in logic instead of off and on ) .

**LINK**

Has the code and wiring to set up to 8 channels using the 18B20 sensor .

Edited By XD 351 on 25/03/2019 04:01:51

Have you tried the old controller in reverse to see if there is a difference ? If as you say the controller works fine with another motor then it must be ok , the transistors inside it will either go dead short and the motor will run flat out or they go open circuit ( usuall case ) and the motor won’t run at all . The motor will be possibly be powered by a H bridge confguration unless it uses a switch to reverse the motor . You need to test the resistance of each winding on the armature not just across the motor terminals as one winding could be shorted or gone open circuit . If you have been using the lathe to do a lot of low speed work the fan on the motor of most mini lathes is not very good so the motor can overheat pretty quickly and this fries the insulation on the armature windings , it also tends to cook the commutator . You also need to check that the commutator is machined true as any runout will cause the brushes to bounce causing arcing and reducing the life of the commutator and brushes . What do the brushes look like ? Is the end that contacts the commutator pitted or burned ? Some photos may help us to help you . If all else fails - VFD & 3 ph motor conversion works well .

The detector will be hooked into one of the zones on the alarm panel so when you disarm the alarm the smoke detector will not work you won’t need relays or switches just buy the detector that is made to hook into your panel from the same place you bought it , i would probably use the smoke type detector as it will pick up something that is starting to burn before flames set in but if you can get one that does smoke and flame all in one unit that would be even better. Some alarms have the capability to call a phone to alert you but they cost more . I used to have an alarm in my old workshop that used pir sensor and i eventually got sick of climbing out of bed in the middle of the night to reset the alarm because of false alarms (never did find out what was triggering it )i now use reed switches on the doors and windows instead .

Really depends if you may use them again , i use them all the time so the assortment i bought has served me well and i just top up what I’m running low on . A word to the wise is the cheap assortments are just that cheap junk so look for quality name brand fasteners - the set i bought here in Australia were all unbrako so are of decent quiality . You could of course do it the other way and build up your set as you need them but do yourself a favour and don’t skimp on quality !

The angle blade holder that came with my QCTP is a heap of junk ( bottom left of lower pic ) and as the blade is only clamped at one end and it sits in a parallel sided groove the rear of the blade is free to wander wherever it wants .

Can’t say about hallmark stamps but i think letter and number stamps are hot forged these days , there is probably a youtube vid out theres somewhere !

Yesterday i made parting tool support along the lines of the one in the video i linked to in an earlier post .

I decided to do some experiments to see if it did help rigidity and it did but did it stop dig-ins no it just broke the parting blade so i loaded a new insert in the other end and tried again - same result .

I then tried HSS and got the same result with it starting out ok and with pleny of cutting oil i got half way though a 25mm bar of steel then i would feel some resistance on the feed handle and bang a broken blade , i left it for the day and went to have a good suck on my thumb while i lay in the foetal position in a dark room - the insert parting blade cost around $80 au so i was not a happy camper to say the least !

Next day : I thought i would go over the machine just to check everything was adjusted ok and all was well so back to the drawing board! By now i was getting desperate and the only thing that sprang to mind was to try a different piece of steel ( I wasn’t sure what it was but assumed it to be free machining steel or BMS ) I had a dig around my stockpile of steel bar and found a piece that i knew was BMS and chucked it up in the lathe and most of the problem disappeared! I then went through all the different partting tools again although this time i had an old carbide tipped grooving tool to try as well and didn’t have another dig in , i tried the grooving tool and it flew through the BMS so i thought i would go back to the original piece of bar and try it but first i wanted to check that all of my insert tooling was set to centre. This was fairly uneventful for the most part except for one toolholder - a R/H turning and facing tool which regardless of what i tried just wouldn machine , it grabbed and chattered so i tried a new insert with no change. I had a L/H tool with the same sort of insert that worked fine so i switched inserts and the issue dissapeared ! I have a few sets of this style of insert that i got of ebay and a tool seller i regularily use and looking at them there is almost no difference in appearance except one is slightly darker so i did a comparison between the two with the result being one set worked 100% the other set just wouldn’t cut . Why I don’t know - need a comparitor or microscope to check them over - i have neither and as they were cheap they found a new home in the bin !

Back to the other bit of steel that gave me so much grief - the the grooving tool did part it of and instead of breaking of it actually stalled the lathe so it wasn’t without incident ! I then tried turning this stuff with the now sorted insert tooling and it wasn’t pretty ! The chips wanted to weld to the insert and some cutting oil did improve this a little but i still don’t like it so this stuff is now separated from the rest of my stock until i work out what it is ( i thought it may have been 4140 that i picked up off ebay but i have machined a bit of 4140 and this stuff is nothing like it ) .

One thing i did notice with one toolholder was the way it clamped the HSS blade allows the back end to work loose as the slot for he blade has parallel sides and the clamp is only at one end 😳. See pics .

Still sort of scratching my head as to why the much wider grooving tool did the job ? Maybe the thinner tools are picking up something on the tip that is causing the tool to be forcd off centre and the tip is biting into the side wall of the groove ?

I put this up here to show that a rear toolpost may or may not solve your problem , sometimes it will come at you from a different direction and blindside you ! Cheap inserts or cheap HSS along with what you are trying to part off can all play a part .

In this video Joe shows how he makes decorative chain , you could use a similar approach to make the rings for your dummy lifting eye by ising a piece if 1/4 OD rOd as a mandrel - it’s just a close wound spring or coil as you will see .. Some suitably sized screws with the heads turned to the required profile are easy to do then soft solder together . A simple alignment jig would also be beneficial to hold the parts in the right position for soldering . If you don’t mind having the ring with a square or rectangle cross section you could use small spring washers after bending the offset out so the open ends lign up .

**LINK**

This video puts a different slant on the parting off problem .

**LINK**

**LINK**

Try this thread it may have the answer you seek .

I only log in if i want to reply to or add a new post .

I found this video entertaining but wouldn’t i love to get my hands on those books !

**LINK**

ian.