Member postings for Colin Seggie

Cheers John,

You are completely correct I know very little about this type of machine, thanks for the "heads-up" I would have found that out the hard way!

As it turns out this one comes with a mag chuck so I assume that it is correct for the machine. I believe the travel is 14" x 6" but I don't know the chuck size. This exactly the kind of info I need thanks.

Alastair

Hi all,

I have just bought a capco surface grinder and while there is a little intfo on t'net I can't find any manuals.

Does any one have manuals. I am not sure what manuals are available but normally it is something like Installation and maintenance, operation and parts manuals.

Also any other info on attachments etc would be welcome. It seems from lathes.co.uk it is a MK2 model 2

Thanks

Alastair

Edited By Colin Seggie on 12/04/2014 09:07:16

Edited By Colin Seggie on 12/04/2014 09:09:54

Gents Thanks for the replies and lively debate! I will let you know how I get on.

Alastair

Thanks John I got a number form that.

Alastair

Brian I will give them a call.

Still looks like there is nothing or very little in Scotland which is a pity given its engineering heritage!

Alastair

Peter, would that possibly be blue diamond? They don't mention anything about having machining facilities in house on the Website. Do you know if they do slide way grinding in house or if it is contracted out.

Alastair

Dear all,

I have searched and searched and cant find any one remotely local to re grind a lathe bed and a few other odds and ends. Does any one know of any one say north of York?

Alastair

Hi All I seem to be having some issues.

I've been scraping for about 17 hours now and I have good contact on the bottom bearings, and the tops are coming along.

Now I ve removed a lot of material, far more than i was expecting, since myford say that the spindles and bearings & shaft are paired?

My issue is that I am getting lots of side to side play about 2 thou. I also note that at the same time the top bearing housing moves about the same, which does not seem right. Even when I torque the bolts up tight.

I've tried to scrape more on the bottom to in effect drop the shaft down a bit and get the V block effect Blowlamp alluded to

Can any one shed any light?

Alastair

Thanks guys, that is great news I will keep on the look out for one.

Alastair

Does that mean that a super 7 tail stock will also fit a ML7?

Alastair

From thew Archive Page, "We will also be honouring the access granted to Print Subscribers as part of the 'Complete Package' Subscription. This access will only be available until your subscription expires, and access to Print Subscribers will be totally withdrawn from July 2014."

Alastair

I am also keen to know about direct debit customers. Do we need to renew? I think you will get high demand for this!

Andrew, I am up for the challenge I love doing new things, in fact that is my biggest problem i never master anything!

Mike would those not be too big?

Ian and andrew, I have never seen a scraper up close so I don't think I would be able to make one even if I had the file to make it out of I think in the first instance I am going to buy one. I have a marine engineer friend who has scraped bearings before so as soon as I get the scrapers he is going to come round and see if it comes back to him after 25 odd years.

Alastair

Just a quick question on bearing scraper size what size do I need the front bearing is fairly large but the rear bearing is much smaller. So I am supposing you need a fairly small scraper?...or have I got this wrong?

Anyone able to give me rough dimensions of the scraper needed

Andrew its the going too far that worries me! especially as I have never done anything like this before.

Thanks for the tip I will keep an eye out for that!

Alastair

Hi all

thanks for the responses it really does help guide me.

Martin thanks for all the info I am now on the hunt for a scraper!

Ian - I did a running In process slow at first then slowly went up to full speed with 2x the normal amount of oil over about 2 days but it is only at the higher speeds that the bearing starts to heat up.

I think that I need to look at the contact areas like Martin suggests just need the tools.

Alastair

Martin,

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It is aprieciated.

I understand most of what you have explained needs to be done. I will have a look for bearing scraping videos before having a go. I think there was one on youtube . The only thing that I am still not sure about is what am I aiming for play wise and how is that best tested? i.e. what do i do to test and when do I stop and think well that is it done.

Sorry for the dumb questions but this is all very new to me.

Alastair

Edited By Colin Seggie on 26/10/2013 23:50:36

Martin could you elaborate please.

The new spindle comes with new Bronze bearings. Are you saying I need to scrape these even thought they are new? How is that done and to what tolerance?

Or are you talking about martins Issue?

Alastair

Hi I am look for some help with adjusting the spindle bearings on my ML7.

A little history: I bought a ML7 a few yeas ago and I have been fixing bits and pieces over time. The spindle had some bad dings on the nose and internal scratches so I decided to swap it out for a new one. After remortgaging the house to pay for the new spindle it finally arrived.

The first issue I had was that once installed it locked solid I had not even torqued up the bolts!! I was expecting to have to take a few layers off the Shims. Any way 3 sheets of post -it notes and I was good to go.....well it turned. I did not understand the criticality of getting the bearings adjusted just right. so Fast forward about 11 months and I was having big issues with turning a 100mm long 10mm shaft. without a taper. It would be right at one end but not at the other.

So I set about trying to find the source of the issue. I leveled the bed to within a gnats. I could then adjust the back foot to get it to turn parallel but then the bed was skew, not level and most of all not co-planar. I felt that I was twisting the bed to fix another issue. Eventually I got a MT2 test bar, re-levelled the bed and ran a dial along the test bar in various rotational positionsthe results were all over the place..... that was when I realised two things 1) I needed to get the bearings adjusted first and 2) the lathe needed a thorough clean.

The lathe is now clean and I started adjusting the bearings.....well I think I am adjusting the bearings correctly but but I am not sure. So here is what I have done.

I got a 2"x1" batton about 1m in length and another block to act as a fulcrum and put a moderate amount of force in the upward direction, I had installed a DTI which reads to 0.005mm (well those are the smallest divisions) the spindle moved 0.095mm so almost 4 thou.

Next I removed all but one of the pieces of paper (there were 3 at 0.06mm (2 thou) each) from the Front bearing and tightened it up....it locked. I kept adding equal amounts of Ali foil shims (0.015mm) to each side until the spindle was free to run and there was about 0.01mm (0.0004" ) play using the 2x1.

I repeated this on the rear using the drive belt to lift the back end. After Tightening up the slop in the spindle bearings I used the test bar just in the spindle (no tail stock ) and found that the head stock was out about 0.07mm (3 thou) out at the end of the test bar roughly 220mm from the end of spindle nose. I shimmed the head stock to pull it straight and was berry chuffed with my self .

However, pride comes before a fall and....all was well until reassembled and I moved the spindle speed up to maximum rpm the front bearing stayed cool the rear got warm. I ran the lathe for 30 min and the temperature stabilised at 32C for the rear and about 26 for the front. Ambient in the garage is about 18 today.

Ok so now the questions:

1. Does this all sound right? I am a novice when it comes to these things I have researched, watched videos and read loads about it, I understand the theory but I have not done it before.
2. What is the right procedure for adjusting these bearings what is the tolerance? and how is it measured? is the 2x1 lifting method even appropriate?
3. What is the tightening torque for the bearing half Hex screws?
4. Is the rise in temp significant.
5. If the temp rise is significant what do I do? add shims until I get to the outer limits of the tolerance
6. Finally how is the End float adjusted? I realise it is done with the screw colar and the grub screw but how do you check it what is allowable?
7. One more.... Is there a service manual with all the Bolt torque settings, methods of testing etc.

Thanks for reading all of that any help would be most welcome.

Alastair

Edited By Colin Seggie on 26/10/2013 17:00:42

Edited By Colin Seggie on 26/10/2013 17:01:11

Steve just replied to your pm.

Alastair