Member postings for peak4

I might be over cautious, but am always concerned about rags near spinning things. I have had the odd incident myself, so can't claim to take the moral high ground.

Even though you know it's safe in your own controlled environment, someone else viewing the video might not have as much common sense as you or me.

Bill

Very neat; I'll file that idea a way for future use.

Think I prefer the second video, due mainly to the paper towel, rather than the cloth one, to protect the lathe bed.

Bill

Maybe, but it does say Type "English", so I wonder if some of the measurements in metric are nearest imperial equivalent. The knob seems to be knurled, so I guess for manual fine adjustment, rather than a precision movement in terms of exact degrees of rotation per linear distance, since there's no angular scale.

2.54/2.9 = a shade over .875, hence 10 turns of the knob would be near enough 7/8"

Edited By peak4 on 15/04/2018 11:13:31

Edited By peak4 on 15/04/2018 11:14:16

Looks like the 201K is too recent for a free manual; they charge £9 for it

It does seem to be available elsewhere though

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 08/04/2018 22:28:14

I've just measured mine, which is a shade under 6mm, so I'd always guessed a well worn 1/4" one.

However, almost all of the ones I've seen recently are 3/16" so I wonder if mine may have swelled up a bit over the years. e.g. See Here

I presume you know about the site for the manuals

Personally I've a 66 Treadle and a 29K walking foot treadle.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 08/04/2018 00:30:28

Cheers John, but I have a number of older second hand end mills that have blunt flutes, which would be handy to use occasionally.

I'm set up OK for end teeth, as I made a quick lash-up gizmo when I first got the Clarkson, originally using a drum brake hydraulic slave cylinder to provide the bore to run the collets in. This was in turn mounted on a bit of 3" square angle iron to provide a tilt and swivel facility. The casting helpfully had a round machined boss in between the two backplate mounting studs, so I just needed a hole of suitable size boring the the upright of the angle, and a couple of curved concentric slots for the two studs.

It's now been superseded by an adapted J&S universal head, which I came across broken in a pile of other bits from ebay.

I still need to make a longer sliding sub table for my planer-thicknesser blades, as they are 8", but there's only 6" throw on the Clarkson. I've got a load of heavy duty ball drawer sliders, which on their own rock too much, but as a parallel pair, with a little bit of tension between them, should to the job fine for woodworking machinery.

Bill

Thanks Robbo, your first post is still there.

I do have a Clarkson Mk1 that I picked up from a friendly neighbour who runs a skip/recycling company. It came with no motor or tooling, barring the centres, so gradually making or adapting stuff for my sharpening needs as and when.

Previously I'd no easy means of sharpening flutes of end mills; Maybe I still haven't

Regards

Bill

Hello, I've just picked up one of the generic Chinese End Mill Sharpeners similar to this

I appreciate that it's never going to be as good as a proper air spindle, but then again it was also <£40

Has anyone ever played with one, or have a set of the instructions that came with it. The sharpeners are all over the net, but no signs of any paperwork anywhere.

I'm sure I can figure it out, by comparing it with "proper" industrial kit, but anything to give me a sporting start might be advantageous

Many thanks in advance

Bill

No idea myself, however, a quick google;

L A Services Ltd, Bramcote, Warwickshire Tel: 01455 220340 Fax: 01455 221036
The Engineers Emporium is a registered trademark of LA Services Ltd © 1999 E & O.E

Link

Bill

That was my thought, but still to investigate; the maintenance schedule actually says you should replace the capacitors every 7 years.

Bill

Just to update an old thread in case anyone re-visits it for reference purposes.

I've just picked up a nice little 3 phase 300w motor off a friend of mine, along with an inverter. I also had several spare inverters in stock, so I thought it a good time to re-form the capacitors in them and get everything tested ready for when I come to progress the next project. See this thread

The first inverter off the variac was a little Fuji, which I connected up to the motor; it ran as rough as a bears backside. The motor looked like it had previously been run off an inverter, as it was already set up for 240v.

Each phase out of the inverter measured the same voltage under load, with a multi meter, and gave a similar trace on my old single channel valve oscilloscope. (my 2 channel ex-GPO one has just expired. )

I then followed all the advice in this thread, including my own, involving coil polarities, swapping phases round etc.

Still just as rough, though some combinations of phase order were slightly smoother, but the motor was getting inordinately warm.

Next job was to try a spare brand new motor that I've bought for the DW mill, which ran just as badly.

By now, the second identical inverter was ready to take off the variac; this worked perfectly with both motors, as did the following two inverters.

Further investigation required to compare the two Fujis, which measured the same under motor load, both on the scope and a meter.

I then tried with the motor disconnected completely, and found the "U" phase reading about 70v low, and the scope trace for that phase, off load but with the inverter set to run, was also different.

Seems I have a duff inverter, but one which seemed to measure OK when under load, presumably due to back EMF from the motor windings misleading me.

I did mention earlier that I wasn't a sparky didn't I ?

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 01/04/2018 10:33:10

Edited By peak4 on 01/04/2018 10:34:41

Exactly what I've done with my Warco720 (Super 7 copy); it didn't come with the Myford type raising blocks, just plain iron/steel threaded raising blocks.

Bill

There's a few more firms in Sheffield who make stamps Mick Shaw at Portland works for one, or maybe Davidsons

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 26/03/2018 23:08:49

Here we have the info kindly supplied by Teco after my recent enquiry.

I still await a reply from Fuji

Bill

Whilst I appreciate that this thread refers to a mill, anyone considering applying the same answers to a lathe, may wish to consider how quickly they want to stop a spindle with a heavy screw on chuck.

Bill

A friend of mine was recanting a tale about one of his biking friends.

Apparently their shed alarm went off, triggering a text to his mobile and the arming of the web cams and recorder.

A couple of local scrotes in the shed got something of a surprise, when householder started shouting something about armed response, and chucked a thunderflash in their general direction.

There was further damage as well as the shed though, since one of them ran clean though a larchlap fence panel in an effort to escape.

All caught on video, and reckoned to be most amusing to watch.

Until I wired it up to the house alarm, my garden workshop housed a 10" fire alarm sounder inside the shed, which made a bit of a din.

Edited By peak4 on 17/03/2018 00:18:54

Any chance of a link to the Practical Machinist post please, so I can follow it there.

Particularly of interest to me as I have several used VFDs in stock awaiting the next project.

Fortunately I also have a variac, so should be able to do the "reforming" after some more research.

Thanks

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 13/03/2018 21:33:34

T take things even further off topic, if anyone round Leicester way wants a Kennedy Hexacut, there's one for sale on gumtree

I'd have it myself, but two would seem greedy

Bill

Re. the Valve, a rectifier I think

Edited By peak4 on 11/03/2018 15:47:05

I almost always use a junior hacksaw with the blade set to cut on the pull stroke. I find it much less likely to grab and kink when cutting stuff such as thin wall pipe.
I normally do the same with a coping saw, due to the lack of rigidity in the frame.

I also have a home made wooden coping saw frame, where the blade tension is applied by twisting some string. This seems rigid enough to use either way round, provided I don't get carried away with the tourniquet and shear the pin off the end of the blade .

My jewellers saw on the other hand usually has the blade forward facing, as the frame is much more rigid, with respect to the size of the blade's teeth.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 10/03/2018 22:44:30