Member postings for peak4

Odd, there's something strange happened on the embedded videos on this thread.

The two on my post were, The World Turns on a Colchester as the first one, and the Suburban Tools machine re-build as the second.

This was followed by Jason's second post with a video or photo of a planer on a prismatic bed.
That's now vanished, and been replaced with the Suburban tools one from my post.

Bill

The World Turns on a Colchester apparently



This one is more about rebuilding rather than first manufacture, but related and quite interesting

Bill

Just to complete this tale, in case anyone searches for it in the future.

It now seems to be working OK and gives repeatable readings to a couple of tenths.

The sliding ring, with the tenths vernier, is on a ball race somehow attached to the main thimble;.
It locates in a groove along the main body's tubular thimble housing, via an internal plastic washer with two opposed lugs, which is able to be expanded with a small hooked tool, in my case a dental probe.
This allows one to take up any rotational slack on the sliding ring.

As mentioned above, the main thimble is on a double start thread with a 100 thou pitch, so one full rotation moves 1/10", i.e. four times as fast to adjust as a conventional imperial micrometer, which is 25 thou per turn.
When re-assembling, it seems to be pot luck as to whether the mic reads zero or 50 thou out; if the latter, just unscrew again until you feel the thread jump to the other half.

The main outer sleeve of the thimble, with the 100 graduations slides on the inner threaded part to allow alignment with the 10 divisions on the main body.
It's adjusted by screwing in a threaded plug down the end of the thimble.

I made an adjuster/plug out of brass hex, 7mmx 0.5mm pitch external, and drilled/tapped M4 threaded internal, so I could use a spare Allen screw I had in stock; I dropped a small ball bearing down the hole to act as a point contact.

With suitable padding and a small G clamp, the outer thimble sleeve could be slid inwards slightly too far, and then adjusted back to the correct position with the threaded plug.

The fine adjustment is the inner sleeve on the main body which rotates with a conventional micrometer C spanner.

It seems the imperial ones are no loner made and quite sought after.
Metric are still available, but the price is a bit scary, at about €500
https://trabiss.nl/shop/tesa-etalon-microrapid-226-micrometer/

See also this pdf for comparison with the TesaMaster, which seem to be priced as POA, so also probably beyond most of us new.
https://kyocera-unimerco-assets.com/api/DataSheets/TESA_C4_en.pdf

Bill

Firstly, it's probably easier to search for videos than web articles on how to use your height gauge.

If I'm reading your requirement correctly;

How about the following; bear in mind that lever indicators give the best readings when the lever is parallel to the surface being measured.
I'm assuming you have one of the more conventional DTIs, where there is a lever to change the direction of measurement, rather than a central "both way" indicator needle position.
To maintain any consistency, you need to use the clock in the same direction each time.

You seem to have a metric height gauge, so find or make something, which is an exact sensible measurement, say 1 or 2 cm; lets call it 2cm
Ensure that your workpiece is vertical on your surface plate/flat surface
Set your height gauge to the thickness/height of your test block i.e. 2cm
Add the DTI and zero it on your test block height, without adjusting the height gauge.
Move the workpiece to the height gauge/DTI assembly and adjust the height gauge only for a zero reading for the DTI on the bottom of the hole; you're obviously looking for the lowest point.
Read and record the height gauge reading; add 2cm and that's the distance to the bottom of the hole from the lower edge of the plate.
Find a length of round ground bar which fits in the hole, and clamp/wedge it in place at the very top of the hole.
Now use height gauge/DTI again to measure to the top of the ground bar, this time, you're looking for a maximum reading; read and record the height add 2cm and you have the distance from the top of the hole to the surface plate.

Subtract the two readings and you have the hole diameter, and can easily calculate its centre.

It would help to know what other measuring kit you have, e.g. internal micrometers, slip gauges etc. as well as the accuracy you're trying to achieve; also what size roughly is the workpiece.

Ideally now check your calculations using a different method.

This is quite a good video on why DTI's are often best used as indicators, rather than for direct measurements (unlike plunger clocks), and why I've described taking all actual measurements off the height gauge.

Several good points also made in this one, particularly if your surface plate isn't perfect.



Bill

Edited By peak4 on 08/05/2023 16:33:21

I wonder of the "circular knob" is the round boss protruding forward from the main casting??
It's shown holding a laser pointer, on the first photo of a DW mill on Tony's site
http://www.lathes.co.uk/dore-westbury/index.html

If that's the case, and it's on part 312 of the diagrams, mine is used as a mount for the belt guard to prevent your hair getting caught on the 3 way pulley on the main spindle.
The construction manual is a bit ambiguous its wording.

The original Model Engineering article, dated 15th May 1964,  contains the following;

As the purpose of the boss, with its central tapped hole, may be in question, I will explain that it was intended to provide a means of steadying the spindle head, should steadying be needed in specially heavy milling operations. Stays or struts, such as those used on horizontal milling machines, can be fitted from it to the corners of the base casting. So far, I have not needed this provision. The boss may be found useful for the attachment of an optical or other means of setting the spindle truly vertical, or at a specified angle.


Bill

Edited By peak4 on 07/05/2023 11:01:40

To rejuvenate an older thread, I've just picked up one of these, but the slightly different one with the lever lock as per P65 of the link I posted a couple of years ago.

Has anyone ever worked on one, as mine had a couple of oddities.
I'm trying to work out how to adjust/calibrate it.

The left hand sliding ring on the thimble has some rotational play, but I suspect there is a way to compensate for it, and the actual spindle seems half a turn out. There's a couple of small holes, on the sliding tenths ring, with pegs/screws on the periphery.
I do realise it's a double start thread, which is one of the things that confuses me, as when fully closed, the thimble goes beyond the zero mark.
It's almost like someone has adjusted it, without realising it's a double start thread.

Bill

It might be an idea to post some photos of where you are placing the DTI and where is shows movement.

Bill

Some, (though by no means all), library cards allow on-line access to the British Standards library.
Unfortunately Derbyshire libraries doesn't subscribe; I think Lancashire does, along with Northern Ireland but not 100% certain.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 30/04/2023 22:27:50

I bought a similar one from Lidl last time they were on offer; they come up regularly, so keep your eyes peeled.
3.4A total, split over the two sockets, so one fast(ish) charge, or two slower ones.
It seems to work well with the USB & 13A plugs fitting securely.

I'll link to an eBay item, purely to show the type I bought; there are several sellers on ebay, but this one seems to have good pricing for multiple units.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175311449245
I've never used this seller, and have no idea if the units are genuine or counterfeit.

Bill

No idea what's available in your part of the world, but if you look up "L00 chuck" on eBay, (that's L zero zero) you will see several options which illustrate what's easily obtainable.
Usefully, some sellers list fittings as Loo (all letters) which might lead you to cheaper options, always assuming yours does measure up as that size. e.g. HERE
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353930991295

5C collet chucks seem a viable way to go, but obviously you could use an L00 backplate with a 4 jaw or ER collet system.

Over here in the UK some Boxford, Colchester, Harrison lathes, amongst others, shipped with the l00 taper spindle fittings.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 29/04/2023 20:53:53

Via a fairly circuitous route, involving disabling some security settings etc, they seem to be
"Ball peening pliers" recommended for use on IBM typebars when repairing typewriters
See this old catalogue
https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.shop-tools.manual

The link is OK as far as I know, it's just my method of finding it was a bit odd.
You need to scroll just over half way down the page.

See also;
Collectors Weekly to find the logo
https://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/248422-unknown-silver-hand-tool-marked-made-in

Google Eye on the left hand image led me to a different item, but explained the industry
https://www.etsy.com/dk-en/listing/961853147/vintage-nineprong-bending-pliers

Google search on "Typewriter repair tools 3 owls" led me to a security blocked site, (though I think it's basically OK) for Theodore Monk, who referred to a 1960 Ames Catalogue, and searching for that found the very first link in this post

For their use, see P 68 of This large pdf it shows up as 207 of 490
http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/ibm/typewriter/25-6007-0_Electric_Typewriters_CE_Ref_Man.pdf

From the Theodore Monk website, which may well show as clear, depending on your browser or ISP

Question
"Hi, I have recently acquired 3 tools, which after lots of searching have identified as for typewriter repair, they have a logo with 3 owls on a branch inside a circle, would anybody know the name of this brand, as I haven’t been able to find out anywhere else!! Many thanks."
Answer
"Dreusicke brand (German). Used by Triumph-Adler and possibly many others"

I can't se them listed on their web site, but the logo looks correct
https://service.dreusicke.de/

They seem to have won a design award in 1954
https://ifdesign.com/en/winner-ranking/project/kombinations-typenjustierzange-fur-schreibmaschinen/2765

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 28/04/2023 18:49:21

I have one the same as Nick's first example, but without any formal lower table, so just attached to a length of substantial U channel.
It has a countersink bit permanently fitted to save changing bits on the pillar or bench drills.

I also added a horizontal bar, a lump of square section cast Iron I had.
This slides up and down the main column with a simple locking lever.
One end sports a reamed ½" vertical hole, housing a spindle with a drill chuck, and a square machined on the top end for a tap wrench.

I can now use it for countersinking a hole, and then tapping it true and vertical.

Bill

I can't speak for the quality, buy try Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Metric-Machine-Threading/dp/B08HY4P6WF/ref=sr_1_6?th=1

Bill

So long as your round bar is actually round, then I'm sure you will be fine.
I do find mine holds the work quite tightly. The problems arise where the bar is rolled rather than drawn, and may be oval or otherwise out of round.
In that case you might need to change the orientation with respect to the 4 jaws to get it to grip evenly without wobbling.

Bill

Personally I've never heard of them, but there might be a photo on this advert
https://www.exapro.com/milko-35-r-p01113087/

See Also
https://www.machinetools.com/en/companies/116618-mancisidor-larranaga-y-cia-sa 

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 22/04/2023 01:31:55

I'm not sure if this is any help;

Wellon, whoever they are, list a mill of the same number, but also call it a G0728
http://www.wellonmachinery.com/ZX5015-ZX5015-pd40707376.html

Grizzly do a G0728 with a manual available from their page.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-vertical-mill/g0728
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0728_m.pdf

Alternatively, have you tried Warco themselves?

Bill

I do understand the attraction of doing this job yourself, but have you considered the possibility of using a commercial saw sharpener.
I was in Sheffield at the time, and used East Midland Saw Services, who are geared up for exactly this job.
http://eastmidsaws.co.uk/
I took in several good quality, but badly sharpened saws, crosscut, rip, and backsaws.
The old badly formed teeth are guillotined off, and new ones cut in on a Foley machine, to whatever spec you require; I can't remember the price now, but it wasn't that expensive.
My saws ranged from a very fine brass backed dovetail saw to a 4½ TPI ripsaw

This is a random internet video, but shows the process

Foley make filing machines too, but a good saw, with correctly cut teeth, should be OK to maintain yourself
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/foleyfiler.html

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 19/04/2023 15:12:31

Not sure to which museum Rainbows is referring, but Kelham Island in Sheffield has a similar display and is well worth a visit; if you can find the best route to the entrance via the new low traffic planters.
https://www.sheffieldmuseums.org.uk/visit-us/kelham-island-museum/

I was there yesterday, as the host a series of lunchtime lectures.

Bill

They may be made by Daudé of Paris, see Page 16 of This pdf

There's some on eBay, but mis-spelled Baude

Bill

So do Polygon Solutions
https://www.polygonsolutions.com/rotary-broaches/special-form-rotary-broaches/rectangle-rotary-broach/


I've not used it yet for various reasons, but I did recently buy a rotary broaching tool holder off ebay a little while ago.
I'll not link to it, as it was dispatched direct from the far east, and the price has risen dramatically now they only have one left.

Bill