Member postings for peak4

I cam across Rollie's Dad's Method on an earlier post on this very forum.

Not tried it myself yet, as I have a pretty accurately ground all over 2MT-2MT extension, which I use as a test bar.

Yes it was a typo, ATF as in auto transmission fluid.

That's what you get for typing in the wee small hours.

Sorry for the confusion.

Leave to soak in a 50/50 mix of AFT & Acetone dripped on regularly and keep tapping it with a small hammer or similar, ideally end on using a home made cranked punch. a la ____|-----|__

Hex or Torx insert on a 6mm or 1/4" ring spanner, depending on the insert, again shock loaded with a hammer on the spanner.

Stop it camming out with opposed wedges against the opposite face, possibly with G cramp support to save bending that side.

Cross fingers and invoke any popular spells you can think of.

Edited By peak4 on 13/11/2016 02:34:53

I took delivery of a couple from Lynham myself last week; Well made product and a helpful supplier.

I casually mentioned that they were a slightly loose fit on my unbranded, unknown manufacture toolpost, and promptly received a new pair of "tophat" bushes, unsolicited and FOC.

That's what I call good service, from a supplier, who tells me that they hope to have some QD bodies available before Christmas, so start saving up to fill your stockings.

A generous offer, which I'd be happy to accept if no-one else has beaten me to it.

I also have one of these without the insert; mine seems to be about 20.5mm on the shaft, though I guess it was 13/16" when it was made.

Regards Bill

Edited By peak4 on 06/11/2016 22:29:36

For an older 4x4 I've always like the idea of a Citroen 2CV Safari, An engine at each end, so if you need 4WD, just start the other motor.

FWD, RWD, or 4x4 as you wish, with a spare engine to get you home if one packs up.

John, re your internal knurling tool; my preferred engine re-builder has a device for putting a fine knurled thread inside cylinder head valve guides, rather than replacing them. It has the dual effect of tightening the fit on your existing valves, and also retaining oil to help prevent future wear.

Re. the 12" wood saw blades, I just use lengths of 3/8" bandsaw blade, cut to length with a hole in each end. They also work a treat in sawing up large section aluminum alloys. The larger teeth don't clog so easily in softer materials.

Going by the price, I'm guessing This Lot

Alternatively, try searching for 10Kg Aluminium Offcuts

Colin, depending on what sort of motor you have, I'd suggest, either a sticky centrifugal start switch, or dirty contacts on it.

I gather it's also known as C109 or Tellurium copper in the UK.

A quick search brings up Here; http://www.metelec.co.uk/c109-tellurium-copper-18 and Here http://www.ilfproducts.co.uk/copper/ though I'm sure there will be others.

Edited By peak4 on 24/09/2016 21:52:50

Edited By peak4 on 24/09/2016 21:54:22

Double check, but from what i can work out, it's Talbot Plating in Nelson Lancs

My life will be changed for me if I don't get the stuff done on the new house first.

p.s. it came with a nice new  Newton Tesla control + motor package too.

Edited By peak4 on 17/09/2016 01:22:17

Thanks Nick, I was struggling to find any info on where it was made,

Yes I appreciate that the bits I mentioned are an easy fix, if that's all that's wrong from a design point of view, I'll be well pleased. It just seems odd that someone who uses machine tools, to make machine tools, does a trick like cutting a thread on a shaft, then having a plain bored collar to fit over it and locking onto the aforementioned thread tops with a grub screw.

Cheers for the tip about HPC gears, but I suspect that the current one will fit if I move it a couple of inches to the right. As far as fastener threads go, if it's threaded and stays fastened, that's good enough for me; besides which, metric threads are cheaper anyway.

Leadscrew pitches shouldn't be a problem as it's the same as an imperial Myford, and came with a gearbox fitted. I just need a couple of John Stevenson's gears for metric threads, or I could learn to make them myself; I picked up an dividing/indexing head off the same vendor.

As regards the DRO, also from the lathe vendor, I have a 2 axis one sitting in a box waiting to be fitted some time after I get the new house painted.

Still not sure it it's one of my better moves, but I've just picked up a second hand Warco 720 - Super 7B copy/lookalike, at about 1/3 of the cost of the real thing.

Does anyone have any experience of these, or even better an owners manual? Warco can't help.

Superficially very similar to its better engineered Myford counterpart, it does sport a few differences, like a roller bearing headstock.

I'm familiar with the Myford Super 7 as I already have an ageing, rather worn, non power crossfeed model without gearbox.

It does seem reasonably made, but not a patch on a real Myford, and with a number of ill thought out features;

A rack that's either too short, or too far towards the headstock, such that the saddle will wind off the right hand end, if you move too close to the tailstock.

Headstock belt adjusting screws, which rather than having nice rounded pads on the end, are pointy grub screws which cut into the eccentrics on the shaft.

And a really odd one here, many of the fixing screws are metric, though the leadscrews are imperial. I presume this points to it being made in China/Taiwan, rather than India.

This means you find odd things like this: Where the adjusting collar fastens onto the cross-slide leadscrew, at the handle end, the thread is 14mm 26TPI, nice mix of units there.

(No it's not 9/16" or 1mm pitch, I checked  )
Now I could live with the odd thread spec, but the collar which screws onto it has been drilled 14mm clearance. i.e. it slides on, rather than screwing on, though it is nicely made; The securing grub screw in it, rather than having a soft pad to lock onto the thread, bears straight onto the thread on the leascrew, chewing it up nicely, but not securing anything as it's a sliding fit, rather than a threaded one.

I guess I need to turn up a 14mm 26TPI collar nut on the real Myford; trouble is that's in Sheffield and the Warco's in Buxton. Ho Hum.

Does anyone know what other little surprises might be in store for me?

Edited By peak4 on 15/09/2016 01:56:12

Edited By peak4 on 15/09/2016 01:57:00

Similar to the stuff I use on the motorbikes; Motorex Moto Protect (formerly Motorex 645).

Even works on chrome exhausts

Sealey, amongst others, do a 1/2" drive socket with a coarse left hand thread inside it, rather than the normal hexagon flats.

Try ebay and search for "Locking Wheel Nut Remover" to get some photos

In my case, when cutting metric threads on an imperial changewheel Myford Super 7.

One mustn't loose the leadscew engagement between passes, and the saddle thread indicator is only of use for imperial threads.

Perhaps a visit to Poundland before you start might be a good idea too.

They sell phone/tablet screen protectors, which cut to a couple of circles might protect both sides of your filter from scratches due to the glass/diamond dust.

Or use a short haired, natural bristle paint brush; works fine, but just be careful which way you flick the molten solder.

Here we have an interesting description of aNo.2 morse taper socket reamer.

Chinglish at its best.

Description:
100% brand new and high quality.
Material: Alloy steel
Size: 1.5*12.5cm

Attention:
Clamp the workpiece to be positive.
Reaming process, his hands forced to balance.
Reamer quit, can not be reversed, because a rear corner reamer,
Reamer will reverse the chip knife tucked in between the back teeth reamer and the hole wall,
The hole wall scratch; at the same time, easy to wear reamer .
Reamer used up, to wipe clean, coated with oil, boxing avoid bumps edge.
Please allow 1-3mm error due to manual measurement. pls make sure you do not mind before you bid.