Member postings for fizzy

I went down the route of milling a square end on the 1/4 shaft - got a bit of help as my mill is rubbish!

no one makes stainless in this size!

Is this some special type of boiler? Just build a simple boiler, surely?

Did the washing up. Two loads of washing, cleaned car, hoovered car, made breakfast in bed for wifey, ate last nights left over chineese...then into the workshop! STEAM TESTED MY FINISHED 5" STEEL BOILER...that went perfect but the steam regulater valve came loose, so a complete redesign is under way. I got bored of this so made me a blower valve and fitted that. Cooked me a curry, had me a bath and here I am! Just need 4 cans of Stella' and ive about done!

The last 2 inches of my regulater connecting rod are 5/32 square section. I cant make it any bigger or it will foul the valve link arms. Ive only got steel or brass, cant use steel in boiler (wont last long at that thickness) so question is, will brass be strong enough? I inted to fit travel stops on the regulator arm so it wont be possible to put lots of torque into it, I just dont want it twisting/shearing off!!

I had a similar lathe do exactly the same - couldnt be repaired, needed new circuit board!

The money will be much better spent helping one legged ethiopian transvestites come to terms with their sexuality...well, thats what the lottery fund was set up for after all!

Mine is the name I went by when I was deep diving...my blood was constantly in this state!!

My old art teacher flew a Vulcan in the war, was shot down and ended up in a POW camp. The day he retired from teaching the whole school went outside to see a vulcan fly over. this was mid 80's. RIP mr. Wulley

theres propper steel tank sealant availible for car and motorbike fuel tanks - on ebay at around 20 squids

Theres a fully automated XL spreadsheet which will work it all out for you, both copper and steel. Calcs yube thickness, stay pitch etc. I remember for steel it uses a safety factor of x4. My inspecter cross referanced his calcs against the program and had no issues with it.

Ive just designed, welded and had tested and certifid my own boiler, albeit in steel, but the principals are the same. There is no build code, indeed the blue book stresses that it is not a code to build to. There are however easily availible and well proven formulae (I cant spell!) which if demonstrated to have been correctly applied are generally accepted at club level. The easy approach is to find a proven design, make the changes you need, calculate all stresses etc and then run through all of this with your hopefully friendly boiler inspecter. If youve covered all your bases and can demonstrate this there should be no problem. A note of caution, if you decide to design your own from scratch try to do it on CAD or similar and on 1:1 scale - its a lot more difficult to get right than you would think! There are various books on build techniques but to be honest if you have to go t the book then your probably not quite ready. PM me if you have any specific questions as I have made 3 1/2" boilers aswell.

..to a rocket and fly to the moon...youd be the first there!!

STRAP IT

we used to use those to clean up welds

just be careful of the fumes from the T5...I dont have an msds to hand but I was using it at weekend and its awful strong if it gets up ya nose!

All depends how big the bur is? We used everything from scrap pieces of steel down to gravel off the road!

Anyone looking for a lab based apprentiship in the Pompy area....I got one going??

I took on an apprentice a while back, only 2 people even applied for the post, and the pay was way more than the lowest rate....he just walked off site one day and never came back!

I remember seeing a lathe chuck aparently run backwards slowly when in actual fact it was going forwards very quickly, but this was at high peak college in Buxton, 27 years ago...It was caused by the lighting for sure. I find it much better to use lots of low wattage energy bulbs in my workshop.