Member postings for fizzy

bump!

im looking for a drawing of the type with the nylon disc inside

to let the cat out the bag originates from medieval england a; very long time before the punishment tool, and indeed refers to the cat in a bag instead of the pig you just bought - in addition there is also the phrase "bought a pig in a poke" which is the same event. A poke is another olde name for a bag, hence beware buying a pig in a bag! I prefer mine in a freezer!

as a young teenager i used to buy boax and alum by the bucket load for my taxidermy...how times have changed

" was refused a steam test as i have a screw in drain plug and not a tap to blow down the boiler" In my humble opinion the boiler inspector should stick to the criteria layed out in the reg book. He should certify your boiler regardless of his or his club preferances as you may wish to run it elsewhere. He is ofcourse then well within his right to not allow you on to the track for not complying with club rules!!

I too am time served so would never leave a key in chuck when i was at work, but I make a point of doing so in my own workshop as it prompts me to never just start the machine without giving the whole set up a check over - I dont advocate this but it works for me - and no one else is allowed in there!

theres tuning and theres tuning. On a standard engine this would entail optimising certain settings to improve whatever you wanted to improve, for example one can sky rocket the power on common rail diesel injection units simply by increasing the line pressure by means of a crude resistor, but more likely the term is confused with modifying where components are altered to enhance a specific charateristic. Take exhausts as mentioned previously. The downpipe/manifold (header) can be tuned/modified/changed to alter the engine characteristics thus effecting back-pressure, speed of flow and resonance, this impacts engine response and power at different parts of the rev range. Couple this with a custom exit and silencer system and all manner of aspects are changed and affected. And as for the people with silly loud exhausts, they are almost without exception actually losing power on their road cars. The 'pipe' needs to be tailored to things like power range, cam profile and swept volume but to name a few.

indeed, but in effect you had 500 hours of entertainment (couldnt think of a berrer word) for £2 per hour which is a good deal by my standards

The view from my workshop window (if I had one, which I don't, same lowlife reasons) would be one of more of Burnley, which is justification for not having one in the first place.

Im not using the exhaust version, instead I picked the crank case type, good I think for 2-300 degrees. Anyone used it?

The easy solution, and one which I have used with complete success is to take the tank off, remove or block any outlets, get it good warm (hairdryer!) mix a half pint of fibreglass resin and pour in. Keeping it warm will make the resin very runny and you can direst it to where you want it. Give it a good slosh round, don't concentrate it where the leak is. Works 100% every time for me.

latest attempt - Strip all paint off using ethyl acetate (5 gallons in tank, 100% purity). Allow to air dry. Avoid handling any external surfaces and wear cotton gloves. Room temp 20 deg C, spraying PJ1 onto bare metal. Put too much on first time and it ran so straight back into solvent, washed off in seconds. Light coat, hanging from rafters, looks like good coverage. Propose 24 hrs between coats, 3 coats planned. I have seen ont web where people have baked the parts in an oven for 20 minutes @ 200 deg C, so I will try this as well! I can confirm that where the firebox sparks landed on the surface last time they made a right mess, leading me to thing that the paint wasn't completely cured at room temp even after 7 days. This is getting expensive!

Brush or spray?

Hi JB - Thanks all

Does it need a primer - curing - top coat? Sent you an email but never got an answer

I have completed my 7 1/4 Invicta. There is 2mm between frame and boiler so I decided that cleading and cladding was a non starter, only option is to paint it. So far I have sprayed it with exhaust paint - very dull and very soft, no resistance to scratching. Then I tried normal primer and paint - it blistered, finally PJ1. Good finish but when it was hot and bits dropped on it from the chimney they made a right mess of it. Any suggestions??

I do like that!

Jason - I knew that......

Boiler design started

just move to Wigan - no such troubles!

love the mad max car!

Martin - do you have an account on here so I can PM you?