Member postings for fizzy

so my x2 gearbox went south..again. bought a belt drive conversion and what a disaster. Drive ratio in low is far too high for boring and it slips alot. Now going to repair gear box!

Today is my birthday, and I hate birthdays. If I had my way id be in the workshop boiler making but no, we have to 'go out' somewhere GRRRRRRRR

There are places on earth where the sun shines brightly all day every day, tides are not going away and thus there is and always will be a constant opportunity for very cheap power, we just heed to get it sorted out and put in place.

Just to echo advice above, dont buy a multi fit arbour, they are terrible! I buy quality second hand blades from ebay as opposed to new cheap chinese ones.

Thanks for that Mike - lots of other similar pictures of the place also, awesome stuff.

I am building a new for old loco boiler, total boiler length is only 6" and it is old. The fittings are 3/16 and although I worked the pitch out to be 34 tpi im guessing it is 32. Now is it likely to be ME or BSF (or other?). Any help greatly apreciated. Thanks.

Just saw this on ebay and wanted to share it. I think it is awesome.

Why do we need 1p, 2p, 5p and even 10p ? Its not as though you can buy anything with an individual coin (sweets excluded). Get rid I say!

If your not bothered about copying the original the simple options are to use a captive nut as you describe or put a retaining collar on held in place by a taper pin.

Thankjs one and all...I cant make the cuts any finer at one thou per cut, I cant reduce the gearing amy lower and although the milk helps the stench is terrible next day...more torque me thinks

Sorry nowhere near, but for encouragement I recently fitted one to my 1950 lathe and found it very straightforward. Good luck.

I frequently have to bore holes in large bore ( 3 to 6" copper tube. I use a stepper drill and then a boring head to go to 1.5". Thing is I am having great difficulty in achieving this as the mill simply doesn't have quite enough torque. My mill is the X2 500w brushed motor. I converted it to belt drive which made things a lot worse as it ups the head speed! I reworked the pulleys to give the lowest gearing I could but the machine still stalls easily. Obvious solution is a bigger mill but I haven't seen anything second hand between mine and a full size Bridgeport type which I simply don't have space for - are there any cutters which would make lighter work of cutting/boring copper using an indexible boring head? I already use milk but it doesn't make much difference.

If one were very desperate i dare say it could quite easily be brought to a point where it was usable. Im not saying I would want to use it though!

Hi Bri - I sent you a pm, did you get it?

Thanks everyone

I have a 6" dia aluminium bar I need to cut up into 1" sections. I cant part it off and it wont go in the bandsaw, hand saw is out of the question! Any ideas or anyone in NW UK got a big saw?? Thanks

Some processes are indeed just a plastic coating but some are not, for example epoxy/acrylic fusion coatings. I guess you get what you pay for.

I used to use them till one got irretrievably pushed into the water pipe. I only use metal now!

You can use hi temp loctite, good for 200+ degrees, your boiler shell wont get anywhere near that hot provided it has water in it.

AS a professional boiler maker I have studied all 4 parts of the aussie codes in detail, and to be fair they lay down good ground rules, having said that they dont offer anything which is outside of best practise. PM me if you want a breakdown of the salient points.

Just getting back to this one, Grum, can you please elaborate on the needle valve, what spec or where to get or make them please?