Member postings for fizzy

Hi - anyone know where I can get some - tried all the usual places but they only have piano wire or silver steel, but I need mild steel? Thanks

my experience was that the material is such low grade that it was impossible to weld with tig, i tried to weld to lugs on the outside of my heli rc engine. Ended up buying a new casing!

Collet holders came out great....so did allen key shelf, Die rack x 4off, cutter racks and chuck key shelf. At last a convienient place for pretty much everything. I have moved on to building a 1/6 th scale remote control tank - to my design and just for fun. Done tracks, wheels and suspension items and just designed commanders hatch - not printed yet as waiting for 10 reels of PLA to arrive.

Ive got a few of their calipers and Mic's but they do sometimes go wrong. Ive got a fairly new digimatic which has never worked correctly...should have sent it back but never got round to it. Will strip it and service it one day....might fix things.

I strongly advise drilling a hole either end of the crack, seems to help stop it cracking more when you weld it. You didnt say if your rods had been pre-heated, im guessing not, and therein lies your problem. They need to be hot.

edge of shelf mounted er32 collet holders...starting simples!...to be continued

when i was on the road i had to use a vpn, now i work from home and have good security i dont really need it as i dont remotely access my server.

Hi. Im using Curve Cut to process a 2d drill sequence. Problem is no matter what inputs I use I cant get away from "will result in more than 20 passes". Its a simple drill, retract move and repeat. Any idea what im doing wrong?

At not more than £10 from most well known UK suppliers why would you?

The way I thought about it is....if the boiler were just a strong sealed container (which it effectively is) with water in it and heat applied, the water would turn to steam, the pressure would go up. Let it cool down and the pressure comes down to exactly where it was when you started. Nothing can have changed. The only difference when using it for real is that there will be less water in it when it cools down, assuming no more has been added. Ive tested this with a smaller boiler with no clack, running the water level down whilst maintaing 40 psi driving a D10. Closing the steam valve and after cooling there is absolutely no negative pressure that I can detect.

anyone?

A customer of mine has the set up below, two 5" boilers set up running a Victoria powering a dynamo. He asks: as the boilers cool they suck in water via the clacks - if there were no clacks could they implode? Now we know they dont, and blowing down isnt mandatory so how much negative pressure is there? I have never experienced this but its worth asking you folks.

And therin lies my unmentioned dilema. As a professional boiler maker I see how terrible this item is - If put under pressure it will simply distort and eventually fail - it wont explode, its not a bomb and it probably will fail at 15 psi....but its a terrible thing that is being passed off as well made. Do we have a duty of care to point this out or do we say nothing in the hope that nothing bad comes of it?

Seller claims it is well made - what do you think?

**LINK**

Lovely machine....how are you going to move it? looks very heavy!

Studdied biochem at uni long ago...but....IPA will keep the water in (the fuel) solution and thus minimise corrosive effects. It has bveen used in vehicles up to 40% bv but this can be counter productive to longevity. It is reccommended not to exceed 10% bv in a petrol car. At 10% the RON will roughly increase by 2.5 which is good news for your engine, so its a win win realy. I dont have first hand experience of commercial addatives but its most likely just dressed up IPA...why reinvent the solution?

got nine...all used regularly depending on job.

Athough not an interferance fit the valve needs to be held close to the port face or air will get under it and it will never seat. Its also possible your timing is out so instead of going to compress the cylinder it is going straight out the exhaust - thick oil is always useful for starting out.

If I need total accuracy I have found it essential to use a centre drill to start and have the job clamped solid. You need a good centre pop too.