Member postings for michael burton 1

hi all new motor fitted but the new motor wont go below 300 rpm so now iv got to figgure tht out.............. oh well atleast its working for now

mike

hiya i stripped it down and took apart the motor wernt a pretty sight the comm was black as night and the brush holder had completly melted and had glooped up stuff its so melted that the brush holder when trying to unscrew the cap jus disintergrated so a new motor it is £75 from amadeal were i got the lathe and get all my bits from top bloke he is will be getting it tomorow hopefully

so feeling alot happier now =)

well as off 9 pm tonight my lathe motor bites the dust after 5 years of sterling service mid way thru a job i was doing to save me £100 now looks like the money i saved will have to be spent on a new motor so waste of time that was now a few phone calls in the morning and im hopeing il be able to trackdown a motor. The lathe is same as the warco wm180 so weather or not the motor is the same i really dnt know im hoping fingers crossed......

bye for now from a sad mike

Edited By michael burton 1 on 03/04/2012 22:40:36

i orderd the fire hole tube on tuesday but have ordered the wrong size its 1/8 to big now before i order the correct size is it safe to use a round ring instead of an oval one or just to not squeeze it so oval the peice i have is 1 3/8 external i needed 1 1/4 so as u can see it anit to much differance what do you reckon,

ps i havent really got the money to buy anoughter peice so if theres a way around this and using the one i have then i will

mb1

13g will be orderd tonight as found a supplier at reasonble size/cost lets just hope the dentist dosent cost to much

well the boiler is getting there most parts made for the shell etc i will be buying the copper this week for the backhead just wondering it calls for 13g will 14g be ok i belive that is .3mm differance as my local metal supplier has 14g in stock and i can buy a peice big anough were as if i have to use 13g i need to buy a sheet as he will have to order it in and im not that rich...

many thanks mike

hi thanks for the feedback as for the track in the living room the wife is fine for a few days then it gets lent back up in the corner out the way oh i love her...... =)

mb1

today must be one of my proudest days since getting married, after makeing the slide valves and a lil bit of tinkering my little tich burst in to life and run sweet, i even hooked up to my carrige sat her on the 2.5 meters of track in my living room connected the air and took a seat opened the valve and there i was at the other end of the track

to say im proud would be a true understatment i had a grin from ear to ear so much so it hurt

anyways thats my little story for today

mb1

there is a possibilty that it will stress crack iv had that problem before goes like a crazed surface finish i supose it depends on how servere the bends are......... you can anneal ally one way i was taught was to use a sope i think you can use normal soap or washing up liquid as a temputure quide when it goes i belive it was a browny colour it is at the right temputare, and should bend with out any stress cracks forming

Edited By michael burton 1 on 03/03/2012 18:34:20

in the book for building tich it call's for brass to be used for the stay nipples etc but when i was talking to a fellow model engineer at the ally pally show they said that brass and boilers is dangrous, so should i use bronze if so what grade lg2, pb1, pb102, colphos or is brass gonna be ok in a model this small as i have loads of brass hex that will do the job,

confused.com

regards

hi john yeah thats the ticket it was very handy as we didnt have to take much off the bridgeport apart just threaded it thru like i say we used it and never had a problem

hi it may not be of help but when i was working in the industry the belt on the bridgeport snapped and we got hold of a belt that clicks togethor in sections i cant rember what the system was called but should be avalable as it was not over long ago the beauty of it is that you can make to a length to suit we used it for ages and never had a problem mayby some one on here will no the name of it so if you get stuck that might be an option

regards mike

hi thank you iv got to order some bits from macc models anyway so il have a ask when i do, as for the tubes would 20gauge be ok

regards

will soon be purchsing the tube for the boiler tubes haveing trouble finding 3/8 24g i can easily get 20g that is 0.355 smaller wall thickness would this be much of a problem? also im going to fit bushes in the tube plate for the stays and cant really afford to buy a foot so was wondering would anyone have a few inches of sutible material i will gladly pay for a few inches probley arround 1/2'' diameter should do

on a side note i have some meteral that is 3/8 and should do the job now it was sold to me as bronze but im doubting it as it machines like copper and has the look of copper is there and shure fire way of telling what it is i made two bearings for a little model i built and they wore out very quickley of running so also makes me belive it may be copper

thank you mb1

well that was reasonbly sucsefull for my first time at flanging a plate....... yes i started the tube plate and to my surprise has come out rounder then the boiler barrel so not all bad never done it before so im fairly happy wih myself solder and flux is on order going to get some fire bricks next week so should be getting the seem brazed up i must admitt with the little patiance i have im doing very well hehe

ok MAJOR muck up riveted the boiler togethor ready for soldering and after all that work it seams its come out 3/16'' bigger so an external diameter of 3-3/16'' im not gonna remake the thing now i know were it went wrong so im gunna try my best to work round the problem bigger tube plate bigger smoke box on and on and on admitally the boiler shell does look nice just went a teeny weeny bit wrong oh well hopefully i can make it work =(

mayby it will work mayby it wont if not it can live on my shelf

its ok i realised i could look in the build manual i got this week made things alot clearer now the best £15 pounds iv spent the whole build and it was brand new

mb1

tich boiler barrel rolled throatplate made ready for soldering to gethor 3 questions

1) should i use silverflo24 for these joints so it dose not fall apart when doing the rest

2) should the holding rivits only be put in just before soldering can they be put in now as i will have to give the boiler to my grandad to solder as im building the model in my spare room of my flat so silver soldering is a no no

3) can the seam and throatplate be put in and solderd in one go or does the seam have to be done first then the plate

sorry if these questions seem daft but this is my first boiler and really would like it to workout

many thanks for your time

mb1

hey bob he sells them on amadeal website just give him a call and hel assist hes a top bloke and hes customer service is top notch iv been buying from him for quite a few years now they have a set on there for about 35 punds with 8 pound per extra holder and also some for bigger lathes

just give him a quick call and im sure he can help

mike

thankyou russell i didnt think it was just seemed weird for the plates to be flanged yet that joint to be just butted up