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Member postings for Brian Price

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Price has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: To CNC or not to CNC - that is the question.
12/01/2012 13:30:12
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Hi Chris
 
I would go the manual route and then CNC. It is not that difficult to convert but bear in mind some of the techniques used on a CNC are bit different than the way you would manual machine something.
 
I converted an old Taylor Hobson machine to CNC and really enjoyed doing it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpSji_Dqftw&context=C39ad477ADOEgsToPDskJaAcPw7a_SFVDGqr-1GWr6
 
I hope this helps
 
Brian
www.eBolt.co.uk
Thread: Rivet snap dimensions
31/12/2011 13:44:13
Posted by mgj on 31/12/2011 12:40:12:
I thought it would come to that. The only problem with the jig (sawing) is that one has to lock the rivets, or they will rotate (I guess) under the saw?
 
Might come to something like sawing roughly and a burst with an angle grinder and sanding disc for length? Or some grub screws.
 
Food for thought - thanks.

Cut a long thin slot in line with the hole with a hacksaw and then when you clamp it in the vice it will grip the rivet.

31/12/2011 10:23:53
Posted by mgj on 31/12/2011 09:38:40:
Next problem - if one is cutting rivets to a length - how to do it quickly? Is there an answer.
 
I find if I use cutters and so don't get a nice square end the shank tends to tip leaving an "offset" or malformed head. So its down to hacksawing many rivets - long time slow.
 
Hammering them - work of a second or so with an air hammer, but cutting to length?
 
Any solutions? Or is this just one of the little joys of model engineering?

Hi Chris

If you have a number to do you could make up a piece of scrap plate to the required thickness put a suitable hole in it and then use it as a cutting filling jig.
 
Brian
30/12/2011 17:08:12
Hi Chris
 
It is a long time since I have done this type of riveting but I have gleamed the following info from my machinery handbook.
 
For snap or round head BS small rivets
Shank diameter 3/32"
Head diameter 0.164"
Head height 0.070"
 
Unfortunately I don't have tables for the length of shank needed to form a good head for rivets below 1/2" diameter.
 
I tried to find a picture of a rive snap set but if my memory is correct there should be one tool to support the already formed rivet head whilst you hit the other end.
Another tool with a straight clearance hole that is used to make sure the two plates are set flat together,
Then the rivet is peened over with a ball pein hammer
Then there is a female mushroom on the punch to finally form the rivet head, usually combined with the setting punch.
 
I hope this helps
 
Brian
www.ebolt.co.uk
Thread: Fly-cutting flat surfaces
29/12/2011 10:26:31
29/12/2011 10:25:39
Hi Tony
 
When using a tipped cutter it is sometimes advisable to tip the head over a few thou low in the direction of the feed cut. Tipped fly cutters have a tendency to drag on the back side of the cutting sweep and make the finish look horrible.
The small amount of tip of the head does not make a lot of difference to the flatness of the part.
I would be tempted to use a nice sharp HSS tool bit in a fly cutter and keep the head exactly at 90deg. With a good set up and a good machine you should be able to achieve that lovely cross hatching finish.
Another thing that can cause this is a badly worn table and the table can actually dip as it approaches the ends of the travel. Caused by the weight of the table tipping the table down at one end.
 
Brian
www.eBolt.co.uk
Thread: How do I cut this taper
29/12/2011 10:12:28
Posted by Wolfie on 28/12/2011 20:46:37:

How do I set my compound slide at an angle of less than 1° grrrr
 
And I'm making it from a round bar.

Edited By Wolfie on 28/12/2011 20:51:19

Hi Wolfie

I would hold the left hand end in you 4 jaw with soft packing pieces, put a sacrificial centre centre hole on the right hand end (so it can be removed when finished) and set up the taper offset using the tail stock. Use a DTI running along a predetermined length of the parallel bar to check the off set is correct, of course allowing for radius v diameter mix ups
 
And don't forget to reset the tail stock back to the original position
 
I hope this helps
 
Brian
www.eBolt.co.uk

Edited By Brian Price on 29/12/2011 10:14:19

Thread: X Y Z Axis
15/12/2011 14:09:18
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There is also a brand of milling machines called XYZ, see http://www.xyzmachinetools.com
 
I have used them in the past and was reasonably impressed with them.
 
I would add to the above, it is strictly speaking the relative 'cutter to table movement' as some machine the cutter moves and not the table. this is especially important when deciding whether the movement is say plus x or minus x.
i always think of it referring back to graph paper and if the cutter is at X=0 and Y=10 and you want to go to X=+10 and Y=0 then either the cutter has to move to the right 10 or the table to the left 10
 
I hope this helps Brian
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