Member postings for Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Michael,

I have a motor that I think is of the type you mention.

However, I'm currently confined to barracks with a lurgi so I can't get to the workshop.

If you haven't heard from me in a week, send me a PM to jog my memory.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

You can determine the specific gravity of an object using just a rigid rod, three bits of string, a counter-weight, a measuring tape and a bucket of water.

Suspend the rod by roughly the centre using one piece of string, hang the counter-weight on one end and the object from close to the other end using the other two pieces of string. Arrange the object, counter-weight and 'centre' suspension positions until the system is in balance. Measure the two spacings between the suspensions of the object, the counter-weight and the main suspension point.

Then lower the system so that the object is freely immersed in the bucket of water and not trapping any air bubbles - adjust one but not both suspensions to restore balance. (It's best if you only move the object, you'll have to move it further from the main suspension - leave the counter-weight position unchanged wrt the main suspension.)  Measure and note the new inter-suspension distances. The object will have 'lost' the weight of its volume of water.

By a bit of algebra, the specific gravity of the object can be calculated (I'd describe the details of the calculation here but it's a bit too close to bed-time!).

Look up the specific gravity in the reference books or on the Internet to get a pretty reliable clue as to the metal's identity.

This method may sound a bit Heath-Robinson but it's certainly capable of distinguishing between aluminium (alloy) and zinc or die-casting metal.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 09/11/2013 22:51:26

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 09/11/2013 22:52:40

Hi there, all,

Why is there so much mystique associated with H32 oil (e.g. Esso Nuto)?

Just about all the major oil companies make H32 oil. It's a hydraulic oil and is what farmers use in the hydraulic systems that power the gizmos on the back of their tractors. Farmers don't like paying over the odds for anything (no disrespect intended - neither do I) so the best place to buy H32 is from your local agricultural engineers (see the Yellow Pages).

That's what I did and I got 4½ litres for the same price as many eBay suppliers charge for ½ a litre.

Don't let its being a hydraulic oil put you off using it in your lathe where Beeston Myford specified its use - Myford knew what they were doing!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Go to Blockbuster Video and get out 'The Italian Job'.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

Have a look at this web-site:

http://www.onelargeprawn.co.za/2010/02/01/flying-101-kululas-livery-is-factual-quite-funny/

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Ken,

I don't know about 'ordinary' black anodising but I do know that the process of hard anodising causes aluminium alloy parts to 'grow' a few thou. If your parts are close-fitting, I suggest that you take advice in case you need to allow for this.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there,

A firm of metal merchants, H. Rollett, used to include a range ot telescoping brass tubing in their catalogue. The diameters and wall thicknesses were chosen with telescoping applications in mind. The wall thicknesses were, as I remember it, quite light gauge.

I seem to remember their advertising in Model Engineer years ago but I have no idea whether they are still extant.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Steve,

This one was top of the list when I googled 3/4" BSW eye bolt:

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/TTC6305219F

There were several more potential suppliers. Minimum order values and overseas shipping may be a problem for you, though. Still, it's worth enquiring.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Alan,

I hope that you do find a solution to your bandsaw problem.

When you do, please come back here and tell us how you did it - please don't leave this thread hanging.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Just a thought:

Has anyone tried centrifuging their swarf to separate the cutting fluid (you know, like the 'big boys' do)?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Michael & all,

I've solved it! Right click on Michael's link and chose 'copy link location'. Then open a new browser tab, select the url in the url bar and click control + V (i.e. paste). Then increment the url that appears there and click on 'go'. Repeat for the following pages, four in total including the first one.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Michael,

I got the first page of the Chesterman leaflet OK but Adobe didn't offer me any scope to 'increment the last digit' and I'm not seeing that page in my browser (Firefox) to give access to the URL.

Please can you help me out?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Thomas,

You could see a good selection of engines and other models at the Guildford MES annual show on 20th & 21st July.

See http://www.gmes.org.uk/rally.htm for details.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, John,

Your outline specification mentions 'felt on roof'.

In my experience, roofing felt isn't what it used to be!

I suggest that you investigate the sort of corrugated iron that comes with a thick layer of insulating foam already bonded to its underside.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

As has been said on other threads, scrap metal dealers nowadays seem reluctant to let us 'browse' through their yards.

Slightly off-topic: Some years ago, my next door neighbours inherited a player piano but couldn't find anyone to take their old upright piano (to play). So I volunteered to 'constructively dismantle' it. It had a cast iron frame on a wooden sub-frame. The cast iron machines beautifully and I still have a few pieces in-stock. (Its cross section would lend itself to being made into an engineer's level.) The board with the tuning pegs was beech and now forms the front apron on my carpentry bench and the front jaw of the carpentry vice. The wooden sub-frame was 4" x 3" white pine with not a knot anywhere; I managed to keep that out of the rain for 30-odd years (and three house moves) but recently gave it away to an acquaintance who makes guitars.

Now for a question - I have a substantial block of cast iron (60 mm x 60 mm x 90 mm) that I need to reduce and 'rough-out' before I start to machine it. The only bandsaw to which I have access is an old Burgess. What do members here think of my chances that the Burgess will cope with such a job and what sort of blade should I be looking for?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 20/04/2013 15:50:54

Hi there, Mark,

Get out your Yellow Pages and look up BOC or BOG or whatever British Oxygen are calling themselves this week.

('Saffire' is, or used to be, a BOC brand/model name.)

Hopefully you'll find they have a depot on an industrial estate near you!

When I lived in Essex, I used to use the one at Basildon.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Norm,

Did you mean 'idler' or did you mean 'tumbler'?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Ian,

Did you remove the shading coils or did you leave them in-situ?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Kwil,

I wonder if your oil gun is the same as mine because mine certainly doesn't seal properly.

The front end works fairly well, the problem is with the filler cap. As I posted in a recent thread, I have the same problem with both the old style and the new style guns.

The design of the gun expects/requires the disk of leather/plastic in the filler cap to seal on the thickness of the 20 SWG wall of the oil gun body.

It has about as much chance of doing that successfully as I have of winning the Lottery (even if I bought a ticket!)

I've been toying with a scheme to modify the filler cap to use an O-ring but I don't have a convincing scheme worked-out yet.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!