Member postings for Neil Greenaway

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Hi,

Would anybody know if what was recommended for lubrication on the high/low and feed gearboxes in a Herbert type v drill? I have one which has been "repainted" at some stage I'd say about 40 years ago and some fixings overpainted so I'm not sure there are fill/drain plugs on the main gearbox (probably about 70year old?). The feed gearbox has spring lid oil cups so I'd reckon this is a total loss type which leaks whatever you drop in.

Its a smashing machine, and runs very smooth and quiet with loads of torque.

I'm aiming to look after it and hopefully it would run maybe another 70 years.

Thanks

Neil

Hi,

Would anybody know if what was recommended for lubrication on the high/low and feed gearboxes in a Herbert type v drill? I have one which has been "repainted" at some stage I'd say about 40 years ago and some fixings overpainted so I'm not sure there are fill/drain plugs on the main gearbox (probably about 70year old?). The feed gearbox has spring lid oil cups so I'd reckon this is a total loss type which leaks whatever you drop in.

Its a smashing machine, and runs very smooth and quiet with loads of torque.

I'm aiming to look after it and hopefully it would run maybe another 70 years.

Thanks

Neil

Just to clarify in relation to Brian M's comments 're insurance, if used in line with the Health and safety at work act, and hence PSSR legislation then an air receiver on a compressor requires a suitable report of examination under a written scheme of examination once pressure x volume is greater than 250 bar litres (ie a receiver of 25 litre volume and rated for 10 bar. Hence hobby use most likely excluded. If it were a club application then risks to personnel are different and liability different.....could be classed as commercial usage.

A typical period of inspection would generally be around 24 months. With steam boilers it would be 12 to 14. A steam heated vessel such as a still which received steam from a separate boiler would be inspected 24 to 26 monthly intervals.

Requirement for inspection is not an insurance requirement, but a legal requirement under health and safety at work act, however generally insurance engineering companies provide the service of inspection by a competent person.

Hope this helps. It is still good practice to check receivers internally and externally for corrosion or deterioration and to replace a safety valve or have it tested to make sure it protects against overpressurisation.

Neil

Edited By Neil Greenaway on 19/12/2018 21:51:14

Edited By Neil Greenaway on 19/12/2018 21:52:44

What sort of bearings are fitted in the rear end of the headstock - cylindrical roller bearings, needle roller or is it another taper roller bearing? If its a taper roller bearing and the rollers are appearing to not be pre-loaded then this can be rectified with whatever adjustment is provided- if they are cylindrical roller bearings or needle rollers and the rollers are moving in the cage then perhaps this is indicating wear. If you had a headstock cross section drawing you could upload a photo of this might help everybody with the diagnosis advice.

Neil.

If you pre-load the spindle bearings artificially with the tailstock by applying a thrust load with a revolving centre towards the headstock do you experience any movement? I remember this was the case with my spindle and when you force the tapered roller bearings together you can eliminate the "slop". Might be worth a quick check before investing in any purchased parts such as belts etc - although of course belts sitting in one position for a time can take on a "set". If the rubber isn't dozed they may still be OK when warmed up a bit.

Neil.

I am not sure how similar the M300 is to the previous L5 series. I have an L5, and remember some years ago having some symptoms similar to those you mention - it turned out that the pre-load on the headstock bearings was not set correctly. In fact the lock nuts (plain OD ring nuts with pin holes on the OD face) had not been locked together and had backed off perhaps through vibration of bad cuts and chattering - hence the situation worsened. I was able to remove the top cover from the headstock (2 caphead screws) and adjust the pre-load and lock the nuts. From memory this solved the issue. Perhaps you have something like this occurring?

Neil

Could you use a chain shortener clutch hook of a suitable size which could be attached to a chain link and possible release itself using gravity - these are normally sized for standard lifting chain. The pin end could be fitted with a loose lift chain.

Neil.

I take it the gland nut butts against the steel shoulder and then the brass insert fits into the elbow bore? I have seen some connections like this with a gland nut having an o-ring on the groove at the steel/brass joint area and a plastic (normally PEEK) back-up ring to allow actual tightening of the joint and compresion of the o-ring whilst allowing flexibility in the joint. The back-up rings would be a plastic ring with a split to allow it to be pusted on to an oversize OD and then set inside a groove - would be easy to turn from some durable plastic and then form a scarf joint with a sharp knife blade. Make a pair of backup rings and use an o-ring that will crease a good sealing fit on the OD of the pipe and the bore of the elbow I hope this makes sense?

Neil.

Hi,

try https://hardy-hanson.co.uk/ - they appear to have a range of different industrial felts including wicking rope types.

Neil

I have a rapidor and it cuts on the forward stroke. At the end of the forward cutting stroke the saw frame will have risen to the top of an incline, and the dashpot oil/piston will hold the saw frame in a slightly elevated position during the return stroke (provided the oil bleed is set correctly on the dashpot. By the time the saw frame has returned to the start of the cutting stroke, the frame should have lowered itself ready for the next cutting stroke. The axis of the slide bars is at a slightly different angle than the axis of the blade from memory in order to give the correct geometry for the incline during cutting and holding the blade off the cut surface during the return stroke.

I hope this makes sense.

Neil.

Hi There,

A Decktite flashing would be the best option as it is rated for high temperature use, and can be fastened to both the flue and the roof - it uses a flexible silicone rubber boot which takes up expansion and could be screwed tight down onto the roof.

**LINK**

Might be worth a try..

Neil

I think the round toolbit you are talking about was described by LC Mason in "using the small lathe" book.

Neil

Hi Neil,

I remembered there was an article some time ago as a work colleague was interested in this area of coil winding - turns out a lego machine was designed and article published in Autumn 2011 issue, but with a view to using this as a prototype for a more commercial version - perhaps this might be useful for an update on what happened - did it go commercial?

Neil

Hi Brandon,

Have you contacted any gunsmiths to source a suitable manufacture - some have machine shops and would be very capable of manufacturing such an item - and to add to it they would be in a better position to maintain the legal aspects in the correct order. I believe Hollow farm guns in Northern Ireland have done work of this nature in the past. Even if your local gun shop does not have a machine shop of their own they may be able to have a pin manufactured very ligitimately with less queries?

Many thanks,

Neil.