Member postings for capnahab

Thanks Graham, I also work for the Nhs and for various reasons I cannot get at the machine to check details.However, I have checked the grub screw and copper ( think mines brass) and all is fine . I think its a stiff selector lever that's the problem. I have only recently got the machine. The selector lever is stiff on moving into forward or back largely. I have the Babin attachment for threading (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wewJ_LI54W4 which bypasses the box using a servo on the leadscrew controlled by a dedicated microprocessor.

I need to check the rod at both ends and the 3/4 nut and spring washer on the back of the lever.

It is a hardinge and Yes , the handle does feel stiff , in both directions … Good diagnosis Steve. Have you had similar ?.

thanks Nobby , good point , was wondering if there would be a softer alternative to brass or if I could make the brass disc curved to follow the rod.

thanks Michael , collet - now you're taking !.

the arrowed sleeve with the grub screw visible slides on the rod so that you can fix it where you want the screw cutting to stop . grub screw is meant to lock it fixed on rod. carriage visible on right has a hole bored through it , rod passes through freely and carriage moves without touching rod. ( do let me know if I am not being clear ) . when screw cutting , carriage heads to left until it hits the stop , when it then pushes the whole rod the left and this disengages the feed to the leadscrew stopping the carriage.

its to stop you at the end of the screw cutting .

the problem is that the weight and momentum of the carriage is sometimes enough to push the stop so it slides on the rod risking the carriage not stopping where you want.

the grub does not contact the rod directly as it would swiftly wreck it. between it and the rod is a disc of brass 1mm thick by about 3 mm diameter which the grub screw pushes onto the bar. I think used presumably because to is softer and may conform better to the steel rod.

Sorry about the rubbish picture. My lathe has a threading stop which stops the carriage advancing towards the headstock. The grub screw that locks it onto the bar has a thin disc of I think brass (3/16) that fits between it and the rod onto which it is supposed to clamp.

It has a habit of slipping if not done up extra tight. can anyone suggest a better arrangement. I wondered about adding another stop behind it.

I have two morse taper sleeves that do 2 to 1. One of them fits in my tailstock and can be ejected. The other fits but is not long enough a tang to be removed by the winding in of the tailstock spindle.

I would like to remedy the problem presumably by lenghtening the tang. I have had a suggestion to put a screww in the end which sounds good until I tried to consider holding the taper accurately the other way round !.

I need to get a bit better set up for cutting threads from about 12tpi to 28 tpi. I have dallied with indexable inserts but always seem to buy the wrong size off ebay.

I tried my eccentric engineering diamond toolholder and would prefer to go that way but grinding small tips is challenging.

anyone have any recommendations ?,

I have a new concrete slab on the workshop floor. It is clean and has been ground . I would like a tough clean(able) finish . Can anyone recommend an epoxy coating ?. I would prefer clear if possible.

Edited By capnahab on 23/04/2013 19:12:14

Thought I would start my renovations with a modest challenge. I have a surface gauge by Brown and Sharpe that was very tatty . I have removed the paint , (nitromors and wire wheel in angle grinder ) - carefully avoiding the inferior surface that contacts the plate. I have predicatbley come across rust staining. (see pictures). This is hardened steel so sanding further (to also get rid of the maching marks ) will be difficult. I will have to repaint , - can anyone recommed primer and paint ?.

Wall is now down and replaced by 8x5 RSJ.

I have been looking at

http://www.bigdug.co.uk

Anyone have any experience of their stuff ?.

Regarding Jeffs quesion on tanking. Builder is doing it and I know nothing about building . This video though shows it pretty well,

Edited By David Clark 1 on 15/02/2013 11:22:50

I have finally redistributed the junk that was in the cellar elsewhere (garage) and am having the cellar tanked . The photos show half the space , the wall on the left is coming down to reveal a similar space. Overall it is about 4metres square.

I would like a bench with shelves , drawers etc along the right hand wall. Can anyone recommend good benching solutions. I have seen not a bad one in costco , and various ads for custom sized garage solutions.

Also not sure how to postion the lathe , the window visible is the only one and faces east . I spose i should point the headstock at it but the light from it isnt great anyway.

The two pictures show before and during removal of the damp lime plaster.

Good Evening Gentleman.

Can someone recommend a courier to pick up a drill grinder in Kent and bring it to Leeds (weather permitting , not today) . I have used Shiply before but the service is tremendously variable. Was thinking of Palletline but the grinder is only about 15 inches square - a bit small and there are some delicate bits I don't want lost.

Many thanks

Edited By capnahab on 21/01/2013 21:15:45

Thanks John , I know

I didn't purposefully strip it , - the adjustment was jammed .

At last I have sourced the knurling wheels. In putting them on I have upset the (very complicated) set up for adjusting the wheels.

the instructions for use are here

http://industrieprodukte.swarovskioptik.com/en/gb2_infos-news-information

But there are no isntructions for setting it up.

I have two problems , the screw in the side of the main body (arrowed) is stuck and has a narrow shallow slot.

once I get it out I am not sure how to reassemble it so the rotating the adjuster nut works with the cams on the knurling wheel sleeve.

So , in laymens terms the pitch is going to determine how far apart the high points of the knurl are ?.

What about the angle ?, - they seem to be 90 degrees or 15 or 30 left and right. Is this something to do with the set up angle on the lathe ?. If so , how will it affect the knurl ?.

Thanks Ian. yes, other than finding it needs a decent flow of coolant to wash the cut material away I am not sure how to use it. It seemed an attractive alternative to form knurling. it was a lot less than €880 !.

I wonder if the bushes and side cheeks come with the rollers.

I have scored a quick LA/KF knurling tool from the bay.

http://www.brw.ch/shop/produkte/index.html

here it is at enormous cost. I need some rollers. Can anyone direct me to the type for a bog standard diamond knurl. I may be doing titanium so I thought

these

http://www.brw.ch/shop/produkte/detail/index.html?t_ProduktNr=475240

not sure about the division or the version tho.

Tips on how to use it would be good too.

Norman,

thats an impressive array of tool holders, - I'm with you on the diamond tool holder. I am very much a novice but found it very simple to use and gives excellent results. It also makes grinding the tools a doddle. Using round tool steel gives an excellent finish. Heres a not very good video.

Can I ask , - what's the best way to make the handle you have for the QCTP fit the usual nut ?.