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Member postings for BERTO

Here is a list of all the postings BERTO has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Morse Taper Removal
17/12/2011 05:16:45
Jim,
I suspect the reason your handwheel came loose is not just inertia but because you have two right hand threads working in unison and not pulling against each other as they were designed to do .
If you screw the threaded rod into the rear of the collet chuck until it bottoms out then loosen 1 1/2 turns, now screw your handwheel down untill it touches the top of the spindle making sure the drawbar does not turn then use a locknut and some loctite to lock the handwheel to the threaded rod .
This way hou have created a drawbar with a large handwheel that will work the same way as a normal drawbar and only using 1 thread to pull the chuck up into the spindle .
You can still use the slide hammer idea as it will sit on top of the handwheel as before all it means is when you turn the handwheel to loosen or tighten the drawbar the drawbar also turns and screws in or out of the chuck .
 
Nigel ,
That was one of the methods i was thinking about for my HM46 as it has a splines on the spindle and to use a backing out nut i would have to disassemble the machine so i can turn a thread on the end of the spindle .
I could make a splined collar easily enough .
The collar idea is now in the lead !
 
IAN
Thread: Solar Flux
15/12/2011 20:47:13
Hi Windy.
I haven't used it but i would be cautious of anything that could contaminate the weld pool.
From what i read on the website that you provided a link to it seems as the flux was used for oxy - acetylene welding which has a much lower temperature than a tig arc .
The oxy would tend to oxidize the parent metal more as it is slower and i wouldn't like to see the distortion you would get !
If you want real expert advice i would go to my nearest technical / trades college and ask the welding teachers as they will know how to set up what you want to weld in the best manner .
You may even do some night courses there if they run them and they are worth every penny!
 
Regards
Ian.
 
 
Thread: Morse Taper Removal
15/12/2011 02:45:46
David
That's an even better way to do it because you could leave the backing out nut fitted to the Mill as you still have access to the drawbar using the hex key .
I will be doing this mod eventually to both my X2 and Hafco HM46 Mill - Although the HM46 will need the end of the spindle machined and a thread cut as it is splined all the way to the end and hopefully not hardened !
 
Ian
 
14/12/2011 22:23:19
Hi Alan .
You only need to nip them up and even if it did spin the thread of the drawbar is such that it should pull it in tighter as the direction of rotation of the cutting tool if it catches and spins would be opposite to the drawbar thread .
If your Mill or lathe has an external thread on the end of the spindle where the drawbar pulls up against you could make a backing out nut .
This is nothing more than a piece of hex or round bar bored to produce a blind hole and an internal thread cut the same as the thread as the end of the spindle .
By loosening the drawbar 1 turn then screwing the backing out nut over the end of the spindle it will screw down untill it touches the end of the draw bar , then simply tighten the nut and it will push on the end of the draw bar pushing the taper out of its socket .
I think i first saw this on a youtube video that was for the X 2 mill and maybe it was on the little machine shop website - not a 100% certain but it may have been when i was watching the belt drive conversion video or similar .
 
IAN
Thread: camshaft layout
10/12/2011 06:26:03
Hi i was flicking through some of my books on I/C Engines and was reading up on camshafts .
These books seem to be mostly interested in describing how to make a camshaft by glueing the the lobes on or describing opening and closing of the valves and how many degrees of crank rotation they are open for etc.
Whilst this is all usefull info i am thinking about building a cam grinder that would use a template and a follower to to move the grinding wheel so it grinds the profile of the cam to what is set up on the template .
This is similar to the cam grinder featured in MEW a few years back but i would like to know if anyone knows of a book , website etc that shows how to draw these shapes ?
I am not worried about roller cams as they are two radii separated by flat flanks , what i'm after is cam lobes for flat based lifters which need a radius on the flanks .
What about asymetrical cams they have opening or closing ramps so how does one go about designing and laying out these ?
There are also things like what radius to use for the various sections of a cam lobe ?
Valvetrain velocity is another area that i would like to know about also.
 
 
Ian

 
Thread: MEW, would less be more?
07/12/2011 03:18:07
Posted by Nigel Barraclough on 05/12/2011 07:53:24:
If you aren't happy with the content, then get and pen some articles yourselves, instead of keyboarding moaning about it.
 
I have never understood this attitude - how does my writing my own articles improve the magazine from my point of view ? I would have already read that article as I wrote it !
 
 
By writing your own articles you will improve the Magazine not only for yourself but also others as your ideas could start a new train of thought on something and encourage others to add their ideas.
Oddly enough you could gain a greater knowledge or understanding from the feedback of others because of an idea you started !
This is as how i see that MEW has evolved since its inception(read most of everything since issue 1 as i subscribe to the digital version and can highly recommend it ).
Say that someone has submitted an article about something and some readers may have have modified it to suit thier needs then later submitted thier modified version of the original idea with some new gizmo on it and i'm sure the Author of the original wondered why they never thought of that !
The idea is that we teach each other as no one knows everything about Model engineering or machining !
 
I have stated before elsewhere in this string that if you are going to moan about magazine content send it to the Editor (sorry David !) as that is who is in charge of that department !
Forums are supposed to be for the sharing of information - not complaints or so i'm led to believe anyhow .
 
Berto
AKA. .001
 
 
 

Thread: chineese mills
04/12/2011 04:32:00
I have now investigated the tilting column problem with my HM46 Mill .
I lifted the column off the base with an engine hoist and guess what i found !
Yes thats right dirt , grease and metal shavings all mixed together and coating the mating surfaces !
After a clean up and check for burrs and high spots it was bolted back together and to my joy the machine now trams to within .0005" on the Y axis .
I then set up my trusty 2" square block of scrap and faced it off and it is now machined parrallel using my 3" face mill .
 
I will now look at something to make re-setting the head easier after it has been tilted and to help lock it better .
Tramming this was a real pain as tightening the locking nuts caused the head to move (tilt) and getting it to move .005 or less nearly impossible !
 
IAN
 

Edited By .001 on 04/12/2011 04:34:38

Thread: MEW, would less be more?
03/12/2011 21:33:30
When i was buying the hard copy it wouldn't have mattered if it was a weekly as i would have still purchased it !
I now subscribe to the digital version which ensures i get every editon new and old and can read them at leisure , Although i do mss taking them to work to read during my smoko break!
I suppose i could take a laptop and my mobile broadband instead and that way i would have all of them at my fingertips !
 
As for magazine content i have no compliants and it wouldn't matter one bit if David changed the content to suit what some readers may want as there will always be others who would complain .
I think that David and his team do an astonishing job of putting together MEW &ME and manage to keep the contents interesting to the majority of readers .
One needs to understand that he doesn't have a bottomless pool of articles to pick from and the content of thesearticles is a lottery !
If there are certain types of articles a reader want's to see then let him know as he may have something on the backburner waiting for others to fit in with it .
 
As for advertising it is of little use to me as i live on the other side of the planet and would not purchase from these retailers as the cost of freight is a killer .
That said i still have a look at what they are selling as sometimes there will be a new item that interest me , all i have to do is wait for it to hit these shores probably a year later !
 
Regards ..
Ian

Thread: mastiff engine plans
27/11/2011 02:09:08
Hi .
Does anyone know where i can get a copy of "BUILDING THE MASTIFF " by L.C. Mason ?
 
Ian
 
Never mind i found them at Hemmingways !

Edited By .001 on 27/11/2011 02:34:42

Thread: Yet Another Tangential Tool Holder
25/11/2011 00:11:02
I believe it is to keep tool overhang to a minimum .
The larger unit has more material behind the cutting tool and this means there is a larger distance between tool tip and toolpost all be it probably around 10mm maybe a little more .
There are some benifits to the smaller unit as the cutting tool is small and easier to work with on small items , it does though get hotter quicker than a larger piece of tool steel as it simply has not got the surface area to sink as much heat away.
You can also use these to cut threads as the grinding instruction come with the toolholder and seem reasonably simple .
 
Regards..
Ian
23/11/2011 04:07:38
Hi , I have been using one of these for a couple of years now and still think it is the best thing i have purchased for my lathe .
The company i purchased it from ais Eccentric Engineering .
I watched a clip on youtube and was hooked !
They have now revised the design and i urge you to look at thier website as it may give you some more ideas as to making your own .
Unfortunately they will not be adding the smallest version to the modified line-up at the moment so if i want these for my lathe i will have to make them myself .
 
Regards .
Ian.
Thread: metric taps
23/11/2011 03:50:06
Hi Colin.
I agree that jasons rule of thumb will get you by or out of trouble 99% of the time and do stick with the coarse thread unless specified different .
 
I also agree with David in regards to Tubal cains book .
 
You did not mention what material you are cutting a thread in ?
 
I have found the workshop practice series both informative and very usefull and there are over 40 different publications under the WPS banner .
Two i recommend are Metalworkers Data Book - WPS #42 by Harold Hall & Model Engineers Handbook by Tubal Cain .
Well actually i could recommend any book with the name of these authors on it and there are a few in the WPS series !
 
There was a series of wall charts produced by MEW that i use most of the time and i keep these handy in the workshop as it saves getting my good books as mentioned above dirty !
 
If you don't own a tap and die set you shoud be able to get a small tap set that has the correct drill for each size tap , usually has 4,5,6,8,10 mm etc and may be of use to you .
 
Regards ..
Ian

 
 
 

Thread: chineese mills
20/11/2011 06:33:30
Hi , i have finally got around to tramming the head of my new mill -same as the chester lux with dovetail column .
It seems that the y axis has a 5 thou variation from front to rear and i was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem ?
I set up the x axis first then checked the y axis second and it seems as the column is tilting foward .
I then set up my longest parallel across the table and clockedthe top of it to see if the table was climbing or tilted but it showed no deviation .
The only other thing i could think of doing was to set up my longest engineers square on the bed and clock the top of the blade which was now in the vertical plane .
Using the spindle feed i ran the indicator up and down the blade of the square and it showed 2 thou deviation - tilting foward .
I then did the same using the column adjustment and it showed exactly the same 2 thou tiltng foward .
I would deduct from this that the column and spindle are parallel and the column is tilting foward in respect to the y axis of the table .
i set up a 2 inch square block of steel in a toolmakers vice surfaced both sides using a 75mm face mill and this also showed .0005'' out of parallel indicating that the column is tilting foward .
Any thoughts on this ?
I suppose my next mission will be to lift the column from the base and see if the mating surfaces are clean and have no burrs .
Or am i creating mountains out of molehills !
 
IAN
 
 

 
Thread: help with pump design
19/11/2011 00:13:24
Hi Vince.
Have a look around on the internet for how a pneumatic double diaphragm pump works , it may give you some ideas .
You did not mention the viscosity of the oil or what pressure you need it to be supplied at ?
For a fun project you could try an air powered oscillating engine to turn a rotory vane pump or even a piston pump (crank or cam operated ).
 
Regards .
Ian .
Thread: chineese mills
15/11/2011 04:45:48
Thanks Rick i will check out those stores .
I agree that the SEIG gear is good for what you pay for it - with the exception of the super X3 as it is more expensive than my HM46 mill and not as big although variable speed and digital Z-axis readout are a bonus !
I now have 2 mills and may modify the X2 to CNC in the future but i will keep it either way as it is better suited to smaller cutters and delicate work .
The AL50G lathe has served me well although the spindle bore is annoyingly small !
Next on the list is a tool and cutter of some sort , the one in the latest AME is ripper of a copy !
 
Springbock , Did you mean round turret like the VMC or round COLUMN ?
I know the VMC has a round turret to allow it to tilt and slide is this what you had problems with ?
I was not impressed by the round column type of machine as it was a pain to raise/lower the head and even more so to change speeds although it did have 12 speeds against my machines 6.
I am thinking of a planetary gearbox to fit between the motor and the gear head to allow under/overdrive of the existing 6 speeds but that"s a long way off !
 
Regards..
IAN
 
 

 
 
Thread: How NOT to tap a hole
09/11/2011 03:04:34
Oddly enough this was something i was doing back in the 1990's !
I was working as a welder for a company that manufactured roller shutters and my job was to fabricate the roller drum .
After 6 months of hand tapping the cast iron cores that connect the drum to the axle then screwing in the 4 bolts and tightening i got jack of this especially as some drums had 4or 5 cores !
I brought my reversable air drill and impact gun in and proceeded to tap and tighten under power !
The 3/8 unc taper tap went in the drill chuck and i chose a drill to give 50% thread depth as this was mostly a shear loading effect on the bolt .
This was so succesfull that the boss purchased an air tapping gun and a new impact gun for the total sum of $1200 but this payed itself off in no time
I only ever snapped 1 tap in 4 years and it was my fault as i was rushing , no problem though as we just blew it out with an oxy - acetylene torch and re- drilled the core in a different position .
Some thoughts on the video :
1) At least he used a vice of some substance and no way was it going to flip over .
 
2)The gloves he was wearing are for chemical usage and will not protect him from much other than the WD-40 and besides that i was always tought not to use gloves with anything that revolves under power as you can't feel anything and they may get pulled into the machine - this was mainly aimed at bench grinders etc though.
 
3) Impact guns /wrenches do not apply steady torque like a proper air tapping gun , they use impacts to turn things which could lead to stress fractures in the HSS tap .
It is a bit like hitting the end of a tap wrench with a hammer , each time that impact occurs the inertia will cause the shank of the tap to twist a little until the force required to overcome resistance of the cutting action is exceeded.
 
4) One would need to consider the time taken to set up the air compressor and assorted bits and pieces to tap holes and it would want to be a considerable amount of holes to gain a reward over poorly tapped holes that are not square to the material being tapped and the risk of breaking a valuable tap .
 
5) Proper machine taps would be preferred as thier spiral flutes are designed to pull the swarf up and out of the flutes and therefore negating any build up that could couse a jam .
 
6) A tap dropped onto a concrete floor is going to need carefull examination for damage to its cutting edges and could cause it to either need re-sharpening or pegging in the bin!
 
All in all it think this video is just another case ot a tosser with a camera !
 
Actually thinking of cameras, why have we not seen a DVD from MEW ?
I'm sure that a DVD with Harold Hall , Dave fenner , David Clarke and as many of the other contributors as they please doing a "HOW TO" DVD would be a go-er .
 
Ian

 
 

 
Thread: chineese mills
06/11/2011 15:07:49
I'm sure Bob will have something similar !
I was going to buy an X5015M Minitech but two things stopped me :
!) It being in Queensland and i in New south wales there was no way of inspecting the machine and i will not buy anything i cannot look at !
2) Freight - these machines are heavy 380kg nett and i was expecting to pay around $200+ for freight .
I ended up with an HM-46 MILL which i could look at and pick up myself .
There is another supplier on the NSW central coast called TITAN machinery.
They sell thier own chineese imports to thier own specs although more expensive than Hare & Forbes or Minitech.
Oh and the bright green hammer finish paint has to be seen to be believed and they even paint the inside of thr T nut slots how wonderfull !
Looks like i will stick with my AL50G lathe for now at least untill i can sort out something to fix the AL320G cross slide issue or find a machine that has similar specs here in Australia with what i want !
 
IAN

05/11/2011 21:54:27
Go to www.machineryhouse.com.au and you will see what i mean .
Some of the SEIG stuff is sold here but this retailer is the biggest in australia and has the widest range but nothing like Warco or Chester etc.
There is one other supplier in Queensland calle Minitech that specifically caters to the Model engineer but thier range is limited to a few models and the cost of shipping to new south wales ( 500 miles south ) would be prohibitive . I usually buy my tooling from them as they have a better range of gear that suits the model engineer and the owner of the shop knows what he is talking about.
I had a look on the Warco website and thier machines seem to be made to a much higher standard than the ones we get here.
I suppose the importers have to look at what we will pay for when they decide what to bring in to the country .
 
Ian
05/11/2011 20:55:23
The Mill i have purchased is equivalent to the Chester Lux and my current lathe is the same as the Chester 920.
Don't forget that even though these machines look the same they may have come from different factories and more than likely have different specs .
Maybe Chester specifies they supply thier machines with tee slots ?
My lathe has 2 slots that run lengthways along the cross slide alowing a rear toolpost etc but none of the other machines with larger capacities from the same supplier do .
The machine i was interested in gives an extra 100mm between centres and 60mm over the cross slide .
I did consider making tee slot table that could bolt on to the cross slide but this unit has a stepped cross slide and it has been designed to be shorter in length to allow longer travell .
They then covered the rear of the cross slide with an ugly sheetmetal cover that is removable.
It really is a bit of a Dogs breakfast this unit but on the plus side it comes with a lever type lock for the tailstock , powered crossfeed , geared head and can cut l/h and r/h threads in metric and imperial.
 
I also own an X2 MILL which i have found usefull for small work but i haven't got around to fitting DRO'S or testing the accuracy of the dials etc.
 
Ian
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Edited By .001 on 05/11/2011 20:59:36

05/11/2011 09:59:13
Sorry that was .0005" for the DRO !
I was after something approx 600mm between centres with a 300mm+ swing over the bed .
Here in Australia we may not have the range of equipement available in the UK or USA but as far as i'm concerned ALL lathes should have tee slots on the cross slide .
 
Regards ..
Ian

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