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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: photo
21/09/2011 19:37:36
If you want a good photo re-sizer then try PIX resizer. It will give you all sorts of different sizes plus optional settings.
Perhaps David can give us the constraints on Photo sizes please.
Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 21/09/2011 19:38:22

Thread: 5cc CI engine and diesel fuel
20/09/2011 15:10:49
I have had a look at our 'Licence' from customs and Excises for the purchase and retention of the Diethyl Ether.
We obtained it from:-
 
HM Customs & Excise. Advice Center.
Warwick House
Redhill
Surrey
RH1 1QU
0845 199199 fax 01737 73465
 
This applies, Alcohol Liquor Duties act. Sect. 77
 
What I would do if I was applying, I would detail what you want it for and that you would like to hold say 5ltr. Whatever.
As long as you have the Customs stamped letter, it authorises you to buy the item as and when.
As regards Amyl Nitrate, I am sure if you went to a chemist with the engine and other details you would be able to buy a small qty at his discretion.
Mainly be quite open about what you want to do and how.
Do not buy through a large chemist like Boots, rather a smaller chemist and the overheads will be less or deal direct with the main factor for the ether.
Remember, 'Everything is allowed unless it is forbidden'
 
Clive
 
Thread: team racers
19/09/2011 22:31:18
I used to have an Amco 3.5 which was an excellent C/L engine.
I also used it in a Powerhouse model for free flight. Lost it in a big oak tree in 1954, still there as far as I know.
Also had an Arden 199 but the mountings was a circular back plate which meant a re-design of models to fit.
Later I had a Dooling 29 and a McCoy 29 that I used for C/L, had them in a various models. One of them a Stunt Queen.
Also had two PeeWee engines, very small and I made a twin engine Comet model for sport C/L.
One Aussie chap used to make a free flight model from one sheet of eighth balsa with one of these small engines which he would fling up and it would disappear into China, later it would be very carefully returned to the border post with a warning not to let it happen again.
Still have an ED Bee.
 
Clive
Thread: brass wire mesh in 1mm weave
19/09/2011 22:16:08
Thank you lads, I should have posted earlier.
One of our forum members was able to get me some mesh which I traded him with some Honey.
I managed to make 8 baskets in all with what he supplied.
Going back to the original problem with the baskets we had, the ultrasonic tank of course vibrates and in doing so wears away the base ring of the mesh basket and after some time the bottom drops out.
 
Clive
Thread: Oil grooves in piston valves
16/09/2011 08:41:34
Do the grooves have to be flat bottomed, surely as oil grooves then a 'V' groove will suffice.
You have not stated the type of stainless you are using, perhaps a free machining type would be better.
Its a long time since I machined stainless and I cannot remember the grade that machined freely! 303 and 316 spring to mind but I had no problem machining circlip grooves in them!
 
Clive
Thread: myford super 7 mk1
14/09/2011 19:40:17
I am wondering if the Hex. locking bolt has just jumped out of engagement to the shaft?
It has happened to me on my Myford ML10.
You need a cut short allen key to fit the Hex. head bolt that is in the side of the pulley and loosen it and lift it up to engage the lock, then tighten afterwards.
 
Clive
Thread: degreasing
12/09/2011 07:43:09
White spirit is by far the best solvent for cleaning dried up grease, soak for a period of time and it will soften enough to allow it to be brushed off.
For stained areas then use wire wool, scotch brite is abrasive and not recommended.
Any cloths etc used should be allowed to evaporate in the open and not piled in a heap as spontaneous combustion can occur.
It should all be done in the open air to allow the evaporation and to protect yourself from fumes.
 
Clive

Edited By David Clark 1 on 13/09/2011 13:57:43

Thread: milling
11/09/2011 10:49:37
Garrygun, if you read back through some of the older postings you will find exactly what you are looking for.
With the supplied 'Bargain' cutter it may have the wrong inserts fitted and is not a bargain when you have to buy further inserts.
Make sure that your slides are not slack and that you have clamped any non moving part of the machine before you cut.
Remember up-cutting is the normal cut against the metal. downcutting will cause poor surface if there is backlash in the slides.
So please read back and see if you can glean anything from previous postings about milling.
 
Clive
 
Thread: Benches
09/09/2011 10:54:07
I have two Beech Block worktops, both of which have split and de-laminated. They also sag in the middle!
These were about £275 when new so not a good purchase.
For the drill and other machines I made a solid wood bench with 4 x 4 legs and side rails, the top is thick plywood/blockboard.
Machines sit over the legs.
 
Clive
Thread: LMS Whistles
08/09/2011 21:22:29
Me, dumbo!
 
Clive
08/09/2011 17:52:31
John, it seems that site address is non existant.
 
 
Clive
Thread: Myford large bore Super 7 for sale
07/09/2011 17:30:44
Direct linky not worky, OK
Thread: 5 CC CI engine (and a bit of a Grump)
06/09/2011 21:55:29
Ether is available commercially, we use it at work for cleaning optics.
We also use Wood Alchohol/Industrial Meths. Of course this is all controlled but by obtaining a licence from Customs and Excise you can then buy it from several suppliers.
I will look on Thurs. to see what the form number is.
If you show interest I will find out from our girl friday which company we use.
It will be expensive as it comes in 5Ltr.bottles.
Here it would pay you to get a group together and share the cost.
 
Further to this, the company we get it from supply all these items as Reagents and may also supply Amyl Nitrate.
Let me follow through and see what I can find out about it all.
 
Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 06/09/2011 21:56:24

Thread: Wheel Dressing
06/09/2011 16:01:12
The 'Star wheel' type dresser is a must for breaking the glaze on a carborundum wheel.
Run it across the face of the wheel and it will break the matrix and expose new cutting edges of abrasive.
Diamond tools are for forming shaped wheels basically or trueing the wheel.
Lots of dust from the star dresser so be careful. You may need to press a bit hard to get it to work properly.
White wheels I dress with the diamond, particularly if they are for endmill and precision drill sharpening. ie. 4 facet.
Not many people know how to use them anyway!
 
Clive
Thread: Silly question
04/09/2011 11:09:10
On my cross head I used a taper pin and also left the pin with a slight protusion at both ends.
I also made a jig with a screwed pin to allow me to remove the taper pin in situ.
An open mouth 'C' shape with a hole drilled through and then one end threaded for the screw pin. this allows you to remove the pin which travels through the hole and can be retrieved.
It can also be use to push it back in as well.
 
Clive
Thread: Reaming a pinion, wall thickness?
02/09/2011 18:56:34
Expensive! Join the club. I have built up tools over 40 years and I still need other types of cutters and collets. Its never ending and when I look at my Sockets and spanners that I have had to buy over the years for different cars its amazing.
Drills should be a one time buy in a set and you can buy extra sizes as time goes on.
Taps and dies are another expense which sometimes are cheaper by the set!
Enjoy what you are doing and do not worry too much about it as most times it will all work out well.
 
Clive
02/09/2011 10:17:43
It is assumed you have access to a lathe? if that is the case then as said before put it in a collet and open the hole to 5.8, this is erring on the side of safety, incase a 5.9 overcuts.
The idea is to leave 5-10thou for the reamer to cut.
Use a 6mm reamer and using a thin oil and a slow speed ease the reamer into the hole and withdraw frequently. Keep flushing with the oil and slowly advance through the hole, again withdrawing and flushing.
WD40 can be used and will help flush away any debri that the reamer cuts.
Once through the gear with the reamer, offer up the motor shaft and it should be a soft push fit.
De-burr both ends with a countersink by hand!
The speed should be the slowest possible.
The only way you will get the hole bigger than 6mm is if you use an adjustable reamer which will be very expensive for you.
The whole process is a very simple job and is carried out by model engineers all the time.
 
Clive
02/09/2011 09:41:56
If the supplier/maker is anything like HPC then the gears can be supplied hardened or soft.
HPC list all sorts of gearing.
 
Clive
01/09/2011 21:57:27
firstly the supplied gear may have been supplied as such so that it can be reamed to fit!
It would also seem that normal grub screws will not be adequate to transmit the torque that is avaliable.
It may need flats machined onto the shaft and dog point grubs screws fitted.
A query, I am assuming these electric motors are 'Ring Field' type.
As regards the motor shaft I would do nothing to it and only work on the gear.
An internal grinder, toolpost type will give no better finish than a reamer for that application.
 
Clive
 
Thread: Silver soldering Stainless Steel
01/09/2011 21:44:11
Just out of interest, I watched a programme about making Cow bells.
It was partly riveted at the joints and then brazed.
The brazing materiel was a rifle cartridge! It flowed beautifly into the joint and made a good job of it.
The cartridge had been hammered flat and placed along the join and then heated.
A another bit of useless info but it might help someone one day!
 
Clive
<< First < Prev 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 Next > Last >>
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