Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: machining conn./coupling rod ends. |
13/10/2011 08:10:00 |
Remember to use the 'Up cut' method if you do it in a lathe with a stub, it will grab otherwise and destroy the job and a bit of you as well.
As stated , a fine feed and with great care!
Clive |
Thread: Post-build review reveals one major defect (incompetence) |
09/10/2011 09:30:58 |
To clean a magnet that has attracted particles use some plasticine, it gets embedded in the plasticine and the magnet is clean.
Another way is to us adhesive tape which also takes up the particles.
clive |
Thread: A Shattering Experience......... |
06/10/2011 16:00:21 |
Its interesting looking at the photo Andrew that you have a two way cutting saw?
I have had a 6" saw split in two and it was when it was breaking through in aluminium. I think that the gullet between the teeth matched the width of the remaining metal and locked up on the one tooth!
I remember I did not use a key but it still split. Ground down it made a good parting tool.
The ones I use have alternate teeth cutting L and R with an intermediate tooth that cuts central.
Clive |
Thread: Nemetts 15cc engine |
04/10/2011 20:43:48 |
Better than bent valves Roy, soon fixed I hope!
Clive |
Thread: Beginner Doubts |
03/10/2011 19:32:42 |
Rivets should be cut to a certain length for decent head forming.
Try some sample rivetting and adjust the length to see which is best.
Are you sure that you need a domed head on both sides as most of my rivetting is domed one side and hammered into a countersunk hole on the other?
Clive |
Thread: ED Racer 'times two' |
03/10/2011 14:33:44 |
The Powerhouse was indeed an excellent design, The wing span on mine was about 36" and was powered by a 3.5 deisel.
It would climb in three half loops and flip at each one and then glide in big circles.
The O & R engines I seem to remember were cast in Magnesium and were extremely light. The rear crankcase on mine was damaged and I could not repair it, No idea where it is now but I did lose a packing crate between Hong Kong and the UK.
Another plane was the Banshee which also flew like its name. It had a poor glide pattern though.
Clive |
Thread: Honey pump |
03/10/2011 08:10:46 |
I think that I am going to make a similar device to the gate valve, but plunger operated.
A body to fix into the base of the honey bucket and then a a plunger with a bore of about 0.5" that will be operated by a hinged lever on top.
The plunger will have a spring under it to lift it shut as pressure is taken off the handle.
I will incorporate a fixed bar that I can use as a hold when squeezing down on the lever.
I will incorporate 'O' rings as necessary.
I will make a drawing and see if I can attach it here later.
I have come to the conclusion it will be too difficult to make a one stroke manual pump as it will be almost unmanageable to apply the necessary pressure and control it.
Let gravity do the work I think.
Clive Edited By Clive Hartland on 03/10/2011 08:14:01 |
02/10/2011 20:07:35 |
Hi Steve, all ideas are needed at the moment, its what ever is functional and easy to clean and operate.
It will in the end be something quite simple that will spring to mind, probably when I am asleep.
I think I am coming round to a stainless steel tap fitted into one honey tub for all operations.
I have seen one where there is a lever and you press and the liquid flows, simple and easy.
Clive |
02/10/2011 17:35:47 |
Hi Richard, I have been scouring the internet for all these things and the prices are frightening. There are some condiment dispencers in the US at about $240 each but only deliver 1oz a shot.
I will look in at the ships chandler tomorrow on the way home at dinnertime. I know they have plastic pumps.
UK wise the condiment pumps are £32 in plastic and again only deliver a small amount on each press.
I will end up designing my own and at the moment can get all I want except a stainless spring. Still looking at that but getting a one off is difficult.
Thinking now I might make a mod. to a honey bucket just for pouring with a cut off tap.
If I place it in the base and stand it on a riser it will be easy and far cheaper than a plunger type pump.
Early days yet and I have all winter to work it out and make.
Clive |
Thread: Taps & Dies |
02/10/2011 17:27:19 |
All my ME tapscut oversize threads, I feel that they have been badly made or are seconds! Not much I can do about it except to remember it is so and make things accordingly, pity anyone who has to make good in years to come.
It pays to buy the best in the first place as you only end up paying more out to get replacements later.
Clive |
02/10/2011 14:26:10 |
For many years I was able to use Brutsch Reugger in Switzerland as a tool supplier and they stock taps for specific materiels.
An example are Stainless steel taps, these cut cleanly and easily whereas ordinary taps seem to bind in the cut thread.
Most of their taps are 'Serial' taps and come in sets of three.
In the larger fine series, ie. 16mm/,5 then only one tap is supplied as it has a short taper on the end to start.
I have even bought 5 start thread taps from them that are used in eyepiece mounts. These are adjustable to account for variations on the male threaded part.
Unfortunately now they require a minimum SF500 minimum order so i do not use them anymore.
Clive |
Thread: Norman Lawrence's Napier Dagger |
30/09/2011 21:10:45 |
Ian, I read that the scale of the Napier Dagger is 1/3 scale.
It is by all accounts a magnificent piece of work and I would like to see it run.
Clive |
Thread: Nemetts 15cc engine |
30/09/2011 15:59:43 |
Now for a nice bit of anodising Roy, The head in Red and the cylinder in deep Blue and the crankcase Black.
Very good work there Roy and you should be proud of what you have made.
It should run well!
Clive |
Thread: I knew it was coming... |
29/09/2011 07:58:29 |
The payload of a small model aeroplane could only be a few ounces!
Unless it was one of these behemoth planes that are being built with 12' wingspan.
Believe me, if they want to stop model aeroplanes they will jam the frequencies that are used, simples really!
In any case the operator would likely have to be within about a half mile to keep control of the model in flight and have line of sight as they are not fitted with guidance systems are they.
Clive |
Thread: MYFORD SUPER 7 HEADSTOCK |
28/09/2011 17:26:44 |
Neil, nip the bolts to about 5ft lb and then tighten to 12ft lb and then finally 20 - 22ft lb.
Criss cross between the bolts to even the load as you tighten.
There is no need to wait between tightening sequences, do not lubricate the bolts but put thin grease or oil on bed beneath the headstock. This will stop cutting fluids migrating under the head.
These are nominal figures for 8M x 1.25
Clive |
Thread: Honey pump |
28/09/2011 10:53:41 |
Jeepers! 50 gallon drums, I would'nt be able to fill one of those in five years.
As I work in the kitchen, cleanliness is very important and the less I handle the honey the better.
There is a time element in all this as it takes ages for the honey to go through the filter.
Then I leave the honey in the tubs for about 3 days and then bottle it.
This is the bit where I need a better way of dispensing the honey into the jars and the idea is to use a one or two stroke pump that will sit in the tub and put the honey into the jar and there is less handling of honey and jar.
The outline is a s/steel tube with a spring to assist the plunger and the valves to open and close as required when pushed up and down.
I have visualized what I want and now will try and source the materiels.
Clive |
27/09/2011 14:55:58 |
Trouble with plastic gizmos is that they are OK to start with and then they fatigue and fall to pieces. I have tried Lakeland Plastics and the buyer says he will look in the trade for something but as yet no answer from him.
I think it is coming dow to making my own design until I get it right, a winter job that I cannot try until the summer harvest!
Clive |
27/09/2011 14:03:08 |
All interesting so far but remember I am not in the honey business and am just a Philanthropic bee keeper so my through put of honey is only in the thirty to fourty lb at a time and the honey buckets only hold 15lb or 30lb.
So I am looking for this seamless thinwall stainless tube at 25 od and an idea of how to make the valves.
Honey under pressure and a leak and its disaster, even an overflowing honey bucket is too as its soundless and you dont know untill you turn around and see it!
More ideas please!
Clive |
26/09/2011 15:01:08 |
Some of you may have noticed I have another hobby, Bee Keeping.
After spinning out the combs in the centrifuge I bottle the honey in 1lb jars for sale.
The liquid honey is quite viscos (spelling) and can vary in viscosity from thin to fairly thick.
Some years back I obtained a plastic plunger type pump like those on a plastic gallon container for sauces and condiments.
This was not man enough for the job and soon gave up and I have been searching for a long time to find another suitable pump.
I feel now I have to make one.
A 1lb jar is 300ml in volume and I would like to fill in one stroke if possible.
The description I would like to follow is a stainless steel tube that can be attached easily to the side of the plastic honey bucket which at the most is 12" deep.
A valve at the base which will open on the up stroke and close on the down stroke, with a spring inside the tube to assist.
The plunger will have a valve on the end that will close on the up stroke and carry the honey up to a spout for filling.
I hope that is enough detail for you to envisage the type of thing I want to make.
Any ideas and suggestions gratefuly received including the supply of thin wall 'seamless' stainless tube. of about 25mm dia. The rest I can supply except the spring.
I am not interested in a powered version as it can affect the way the sugars in the honey crystalize.
Clive |
Thread: DRO on a Mill/Drill? |
23/09/2011 22:16:36 |
if any one is interested the Wabeco web site shows that the Milling machines have been reduced in price.
Approx £250 which is not too bad a drop!
Nice macines and well made.
Clive Edited By Clive Hartland on 23/09/2011 22:16:56 |
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