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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Milling from a sheet
09/11/2011 21:14:06
The point I was trying to make Jason was to get the piece cut out without a lot of complication, dressing it up after to acceptable squareness is quite easy.
There is a way of improving the parallelism, put a straight piece of metal in one of the slots and with a couple of screws through it force it against the edge of the slot.
This then acts as a fence to put the good edges against ensuring that the opposite sides are parallel.
Using a square to set it the other way will give acceptable accuracy, it always has for me anyway.
 
Clive
Thread: HAE03-1 Hot Air Engine
09/11/2011 17:20:27
25mm is not an unreasonable depth, the best method is to cut it with a narrower tool and cut a mm or so and then traverse and cut another mm or so and then back to the other side again.
You can do a clean up cut after.
Use plenty of WD40 as a lube and maybe a bit faster speed, like 400rpm.
Try one slot and see how it goes.
I recommend a deep parting tool as well.
Also clamp the saddle.
Regards the Alu. most extruded Alu has hard spots usually just about a third of the way into the Dia. You could have annealed it first though which might have helped.
 
Clive
Thread: Milling from a sheet
09/11/2011 17:09:36
Geoff, set up the piece of plate with a thick cardboard under it of the same size, place it over one of the Tee slots on the table and clamp it both ends, cut along the edge, the cutter can go in the T slot.
This will give you one straight edge to work from, deburr the cut edge and then rotate the metal and measure your width and cut again.
Again deburr the cut edge, rotate the metal and using a square set it up again over a T slot and repeat the cut, deburr and rotate 180 and measure length and finish the last cut.
Job done, I used this method on an engraving machine and it works fine.
To be extra careful, use three clamps, one each end and one at the middle of the rear edge.
This method will not cause any problem with the tool on the table surface.
 
Clive
09/11/2011 16:58:35
It was a hand shear that had a central blade and the body acted as the anvil and you progressed the cut and a long curling piece of metal came out about 2mm wide.
It was a very tiring tool to use for long periods and I am sure it has caused me a lot of trouble with my wrist.
You could change the blade for a different cutting angle. ie curves.
You were able to adjust the width of the slot to accomodate the curves you were cutting.
Like a lot of tools it came out as a handyman thing and I bought one and had it for years but I dont know where it is now.
It would cut 1mm steel or 1.5 Alu. Dont know about braas though.
 
Clive
Thread: Crankshaft construction
09/11/2011 10:21:35
I think that relying purely on a glued joint is not a good thing, A press fit is required where perhaps one part is heated and one cooled and when reaching normal temperature a stable joint is achieved.
I know of two applications I have been inolved with where the cooling/heating method was used. No failure was ever recorded.
Glue and a mechanical fix after is best for this method which makes it easy to make and assemble.
 
Clive
 
Thread: Specifications for 3 1/2" Gauge
08/11/2011 21:23:56
The horn blocks and main wheel bearings on my Evening Star I made a very good sliding fit until I realized that axles also had to 'Tilt' so I went back in and filed a curve in the flanges of the wheel bearing blocks so that it would tilt over.
This then seemed very sloppy but when assembled it worked fine.
I have about three eighths of an inch springing which seems adequate, even if not, there is not much I can do about anyway.
The Horn blocks are stamped brass and my wheel bearings are Alu/bronze that I got off cryogenic valves that were scrapped. Quite tough to machine but I hope will be long wearing as there are 10 of them.
The buffer beams on the tender seemed to me to flex in the middle so I have braced them with a rod from front to back to take the strain. The beams are made from 3mm plate, may be a bit of angle iron behind the beam might be better.
There is reference to a coupling hook a little while back that a member kindly posted for 3.5gauge.
I hope some of this helps
.
 
Clive
Thread: Crankshaft construction
08/11/2011 14:05:50
The SAAB 95 two stroke engines had a made up crankshaft, they were assembled with discs and the main brgs. were rollor type and the conrod brgs. were rollor type as well, all assembled in one go.
 
Clive
Thread: Reamer suppler
07/11/2011 20:13:29
I have problems finding the Kirjeng web site, plenty of other sites all pointing but no named web site.
Strange.
 
Clive
Thread: Ground angle tool checking device
31/10/2011 22:22:07
To clarify, a lot of machinists that I have observed cut threads at the nominal diameter.
On small diameter threads this can be critical as to get what they think is a good fitting thread is in fact a crest 'Bound' thread, In doing this the shoulders of the thread are then cut too deep and the result is as Steve has found a 'Thin' thread form.
Maybe my 0.05mm is a bit small and that could be 0.1mm, only experience will tell.
The base thread diameter should be established and a small portion of the job should be machined to that diameter and then the thread cut to reach that diameter on the required threaded part of the job.
This will leave the truncated thread crest that is desired for clearance.
Having spent a lot of time making something and then finding that the last bit, a thread is u/s is annoying.
When you make a stub and it needs to threaded a lot of people cut to the thread diameter and then have trouble forcing a die onto it, a little bit of thought and a small diameter change will make life and cutting the thread a lot easier.
Also, trying to force the die onto the stub or oversize bar will often cause the thread to go wonky!
 
Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 31/10/2011 22:24:09

31/10/2011 14:16:01
Steve, I am going to stick my thumb in this one.
You say your thread being cut turned out to be sharp crested and thin threads.
When you need to cut a thread the top of the thread is flat, this is so it does not bind in the female thread at the crest!
Your thread blank size should be less than the thread stated dia. by some 0.05mm.
If you coat the blank with a black felt tip pen then you can see when you are close to the correct thread form you are cutting.
The tolerance for threads is quite large and a small error in angle is not a big problem unless we are talking about 2 or 3 degrees.
Always have a thread nut at hand to gauge when you are close and finally finish the thread by running the thread nut down to clean it up.
If you are working to very close tolerance then use a thread form tool tip. This will give the correct thread form and you can still check for fit as you go.
I can see no real need of any form of threading tool viewer and in 60 years of machining have never used one.
I think your problem is a thread dimension one and best to review what you are doing, vis a vis thread depths and diameter.
No doubt someone will jump in after me and decry what I deduced from your posting.
 
Clive
Thread: Drilling deep holes - 10x drill diameter - Runout?
30/10/2011 20:15:18
I was going by what speeds I have on the lathe Ramon, I think my highest is only 820rpm.
I just find that at anything faster than 400rpm the WD40 smokes and it starts to run dry!
 
Clive
 
30/10/2011 19:09:47
My first thought is that your rpm at 2000 is very high! I would have done mine at about 400 rpm.
The 3mm drill even if slightly uneven lip length will wander even though you are pecking.
Alu being easy to cut will allow the drill to wander much easier than steel.
As Ramon mentioned, if you can drill from both ends and see what happens.
75mm is long for a 3mm drill and a more rigid type of tool may be better, perhaps again as suggested a 'D' bit drill.
I would think the weakest part of a helix drill is where the flutes end and the parallel shank starts, it wobbles from there.
I would also start with a stub drill up close to make sure of a good start.
 
Clive
Thread: What a novel boat! An Early V12?
30/10/2011 10:03:13
Rob, for a model it would be the simplest method of propulsion as the varying rate for steering on each side would be a big problem.
It is simple enough to arrange a constant speed for the beams to simulate them ebing the motive power.
 
Clive
29/10/2011 20:16:36
Interesting function, but would it work scaled up full size?
In waves it would be hard to control.
I have a suspicion that the boiler was not functioning and the drives were electric powered?
Did you see the dragonfly hovering about at the 1.o5 point.
 
Clive
Thread: screwcutting from a shoulder
29/10/2011 18:53:25
It was EN1 steel and appeared butter soft when cutting.
The thread cutting appeared to be' interupted' visually on the video to speed things up a bit.
 
Clive
Thread: Flexible LED Strip Lighting Grows your house
27/10/2011 15:40:40
They do seem to exist if you Google them, 12v flexible strips for illumunation and decoration in various colours.
Cannot think of any use for them in model engineering except to illuuminate the interior of a model in some way! or running lights on a loco or boat.
 
Clive
Thread: Anyone have a Worden grinder? Experiences?
27/10/2011 08:11:53
Point taken on the wipers Nigel and I hope it works OK, I remember that the rods that are used with the linear bearings have a micro fine finish and that will give a smooth movement.
The Worden is limited in certain areas, and adaptors to carry out other functions are up to the role it plays in the workshop.
I need to make a holder for my 4" planer blades that have a 30 Deg.holding angle, no good tilting the table to 30 Deg. as there is not enough table movement to achieve it.
So the holder will be a block of Alu. and a slot milled through and then set on a the table at 0 Deg and run back and forth.
Also looking at sharpening bigger circular saw blades but only the tops of the teeth.
 
Clive
26/10/2011 21:22:17
The Worden has stops fitted to the cross bar and these limit the travel of the table so crashes on the opposite teeth on an endmill wont happen.
I think a linear bearing will suffer from dust penetration, so far I have had no problem with the cast iron block binding.
One thing I have found is that the three cams that elevate the front of the table pick up abrasive dust and wear into the bar that sits on them, the cams can be moved to another location so it is easy to fix.
 
Clive
26/10/2011 19:32:21
I think it was the position of the tool holder and that there was too much overhang of the tool being sharpened.
Working with the present set up means only the tool is presented to the wheel and any further movement forward keeps the tool holder away from the wheel.
The machine really does need a hieght arrangement to allow the wheel to be put in the best position hieght wise for grinding when the table is tilted over 20 Deg.
I was thinking of four round section pillars and a screw feed. Movement would not need to be more than 50/60mm.
The wheel rotates clockwise and anticlockwise by switching which makes it versatile.
It has a face run of about 4.5" so it is possible to sharpen planer blades with a suitable mount.
Apart from planer blades there are not many tools that need 30 Deg. angle as the chisel blades are sharpened off there sides so there is only the width of the chisel set at 30 Deg.
 
Clive
26/10/2011 16:21:32
Having made one with no problems with an ML10, I offer the following:-
 
The spacing rods, ensure you allow a small clearance so the table will move back and forth easily.
Do NOT paint the sides of the frame where the table slides back and forth.
After painting allow some extra time for paint to dry and harden unless stove enamelled.
Make sure your lathe will take the length of rods so that you can work at the extreme ends ( You may need a Fixed steady)
Make sure you have all the taps and dies for the threads on the Worden.
You need to cut a 40 TPI thread for the thimble micrometer spindle.
Definately buy the Diamond wheel conversion kit. (Essential for carbide tools)
check what milling cutters you have (Metric and Imp.) and buy enough metal to make the different holders.
The table angle indicator is a bit of a conundrum for fitting and making, decide what you will do before you start making the machine.
The finish of the worktable surface, I did this with an orbital sandiing machine as it gives a nice surface.
Do NOT lubricate anything on the machine, it will pick up dust and bind.
I did blacken all the working bits with a commercial blackening kit. ( About £35 all in) There was just enough fluid in the kit to do it if you dont overload the surface area in the fluid. One piece at a time is OK.
The lack of hieght of the wheel is a problem,as the table rises against the hieght of the wheel as the angle increases. I would have thought by now it would have been addressed by Hemingway? (Perhaps look at Jim Whetrens method of raising and lowering the motor)
I have a couple of photos in my photo gallery of my Worden.
 
Clive
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