Member postings for Clive Hartland

Graham, can you contact me through PM's and I can give you my email addy there.

Clive

Mick, you can go all though the adverts and brochures and each one seems better than the other, I did this recently with a budget in mind of £1000 and even considered a Wabeco at £2900 which is a very nice machine but ended up with a SiegX3 from ArcEuro. It was delivered to the door and put in the garage for me. How you get it onto the bench is up to you as it weighs about 162Kg , it will need some considerable effort and cunning. I did it on planks of wood and two Sons. It comes complete with enough equipment to use straight away, cutters and vice and collets, all spanners and allen keys and a clamp set. Consider it as it is more than adequate for anything I will do.

Clive

I have made a bender to an American design but its as good as useless on the 4mm tube even when annealed.

I am now looking at one with a grooved bar that goes around with pipe as you bend it. I will still have to make it and I just need a little more time before I start. One of the main problems is the pipe is pulled through as you roll the wheel around. See my photos as there is a pic. of it there. This seems to make the rad. larger than what i want.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 04/11/2012 22:50:26

To John S,  

Mention was made earlier about scales on a Lathe and the fact that the tool taking a cut took twice the depth of the cut off the dia.

I have just been reading the book of words for the Display unit and it has a section for use on a Lathe, here it says that you set up the work and take a cut to a set dia. (Perhaps 22mm) then at that stage you set Absolute Zero on that scale, then you can use that scale setting to turn to the dia. you require.

There is also a function where you can set it to read Radius or Diameter readings. So it is as I thought, take a cut, reference it and work from there. Whether it is set to radius or Diameter you know from the readout what you are taking off against your final diamter.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 03/11/2012 20:34:23

Edited By Clive Hartland on 03/11/2012 20:35:08

The X3 has vertical sides to the base casting and the slides are vertical sided, its just the space below the table for the X scale that is the problem on the X3. Jason has done his and I am awaiting delivery of my scale which should be here on Mon/Tues. Then I can see how it will fit the available space.

clive

It looks as if you will have to have the cover go from side to side Wolfie, then have zip up ends. So it will look like a Tanker with the tank cut in half !

As you mentioned the rubble trucks have this big roll over frame that drags the cover from back to front or vice versa.

Clive

Sid, the 63mm scale will not fit in the space shown on Jasons Pic. Even then the 45mm depth scale is a really tight fit and I may have to mill off 2 or 3mm of that base plate.

The GS-200 series are only 32mm deep and will fit fine and I may yet have to exchange for one of them.

Luckily I have a friend who has a Schaublin Mill and I have access to it so that may be the way I will go as I have to dismount both X and Y slides to mount the X slide anyway.

For any one contemplating fitting these slides buy a small piece of Alu. angle about 5mm thick as the Cast plates and angles supplied are not too good and I had to machine the surfaces as they were not flat and caused the scale to bow when the screws were tightened.

Clive

Thats a quite neat looking tool Terry, thanks for posting the pics.

Clive

The readout system comes complete with a flexible clear cover over it with only a hole for the switch/plugs etc.It also comes with a wall mounting which you can swivel and push away from machine or suit your view of it.

The sliders on the scales have rubber covers and will stop ingress of fluid and dust but in any case are easily opened and cleaned.

The only caveat is I will not be doing anymore wood cutting with my sawbench in there anymore and will find an alternate place to work with it. The only thing you have to do is measure any space you want to fit the scales then look at the specs. and decide which size you need to buy. The drain hole for cutting fluid will get in the way on the Y slide and you may need table stops . The X slide may have a very small depth for fitting and on the system I bought you can get 32mm. 45mm and 63mm depth scales. I made a mistake at first !

Clive

Hi Will, just standard threads, in mine it was M2.

Re the Bees, The Daily Mail said today that overall in the UK the Honey harvest was 82% down. An idea of what that means to a beekeeper is a hive that normally gives 30lb , this year only gave 8lb. beekeepers say it was the weather at the beginning of the year that stopped the bees working but does not explain why I took 200lb plus off three hives.

Dire warnings of price rises for honey.

Clive

Hello John, I did consider fitting one to the lathe but as yet have not got around to it, I know that a reading applied will take double the cut but all I would be interested in is repeating the last reading/cut. Maybe already measured with another vernier.

I think ArcEuro do them, users say that they gunge up if cutting fluid is used, but most of us apply it with a brush.

Other than that I cannot answer the question and am sure someone will come along soon with a credible answer.

Clive

I am in the process of fitting scales (Glass) to my X3 mill, be aware that the sizes do not fit all aspects and you need to measure the available space very carefully. Particularly the depth of the set up.

At the moment I only have the 'Z' axis fitted as I have had to change a slide because it did not fit the space for the 'X' axis. You may have to dismantle parts of the machine to fit the 'Y' scale.

The display unit is brilliant and works fine on the one scale fitted. Slanting lines of holes, PCD in dia and number of holes and also milling contoured surfaces convex and concave. Measurement down to 5Microns. and even allowance for shrinkage for plastic moulds.

The Lathe fitting is a bit less advanced and as such i think one of these Digital verniers with the scale at rightangles to the scale is better suited for the lathe.

Clive

The piston going onto the rod has to be free of 'Cant' so Jasons idea of a shoulder will allow a true surface to make sure the piston and rod are in the same line.

Having just had the that fault on my little engine meant I had to make two new pistons and rods. my further ideas would have been to put the rod almost through the length of the piston using its diameter to keep it true and have a short thread only and loctite As it was, my pistons were only 5mm so it was not possible so stuck to the shoulder on the rod.

Clive

Cromwell can supply a length of High Tensile studding for a couple of Quid, easily turned and fit a Hexagon pinned through one end.

Clive

It would be better if you turned a short length of the Stainless bar to the root dia, about 5mm long and make an angled shoulder for the die to bite on.

If the die is not cutting then both of the other reasons apply from earlier threads.

Do you know the type of Stainless steel?

Clive

In nov 1988 I bought a Myford ML10 with a host aof accessories for the firm I worked for and it cost

£734 just for the lathe alone.

The stand and chucks and 3phase motor and collet set plus various additional tools cost another £1100

When I retired from them I made a bid for it and got it for £550 complete.

Clive

Of course all these Tele transporters have now bee superceded by Wormholes ! Stargates are the thing now where as long as there is another stargate you can travel to that planet ( Tounge in cheek)

Einsteins theory that space is curved means you can step across from one part to another by some means. fanciful thinking. But , then again the theory about parallel universes has merit.

So I nominate the umbrella as a worthwhile mechanical invention as my wife will not go anywhere without one so it must be important, surely.

Clive

Bear in mind that the nearest cluster of stars is 7 Light Years away, that is at the speed of light, it would take 7 years to get there !

Now I like to travel fast but never yet at the speed of light so lets say half the speed of light, thats 14 years to get there.

Still not possible so lets say one sixteenth the speed of light which is 112 years, thats over one generation in space.

Then you get there and find there are no habitable planets, what then ?

The logistics are enormous, food and water and prolonged time in space would wreak havoc on the human body.

I think I will just watch Star Trek.

Clive

A hot air Heat gun will be better than a flame for this, they can go up to 600C. I doubt you will need that much temperature anyway.

Can you not devize a small puller that will apply pressure as you heat the part and then the stress is only on the piece you work on .

You cannot know the size of the hole for the bush until you remove it to obtain or make a new one.

Clive

I can recommend honing oil as a lapping lubricant, I am sure Bruetsch ruegger do lapping paste Will.

The Ifanger tool is fine, but a bigger one is always handy. I sometimes hang the tool further out of the holder with just a third of it clamped. As long as you reach the end of the tube you are boring it will be fine.

Clive