Member postings for Clive Hartland

I agree with Teds wiring of the Dewhurst switch. My pic. shows no links attached.

Is there no diagram under the cap over the connection box?

Clive

My Myford book shows Crompton as having. A and AZ as the running windings, and Z and T as the starting windings.

Your pic. does not look like that at all.

I venture that the motor is wired 3phase, someone will be along soon to correct the problem.

Clive

There are back facing cutters that the cutter is attached after the mounting spindle is put through the hole, I have seen pictures of them but never seen one physically.

I think in some situations it may well be impossible to do a back face task and it may only be possible in a lathe set up with some back clearance. But I can always be surprised!

Clive

Thats novel, using a pressure cooker to make steam. LOL.

Clive

Ramping up and ramping down are /or should be part of the programme of the inverters. Mine can be set to very short times for both, but the slowing down is not without danger as you cannot grab the chuck on my drill until it stops.

Mine is set to about 5secs. ramp up and down and is no problem.

I suppose a good term is. 'Soft start and stop'.

Clive

Does'nt seem to be anything there Wolfie?

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 07/03/2013 14:32:39

Simply Bearings  list a load of 6003Z bearings at good prices. These are deep row ball bearings and come shielded with rubber or metal. Try the FAG ones at about £3.20.

From checking about there are lots of online dealers for these popular bearings.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 06/03/2013 10:50:29

Standard practice in cars is to use high tensile bolts, unless the mounting has a bushing of non ferrous materiel. Then it would mean a hardened ground pin with means of fixing securely.

What was the original pin/fixing? A 16 x 150mm HT bolt is quite adequate for load bearing if it were a rubber bushing. Pay attention to side float and if apparent put washers in to control it. Try to get some Nylock nuts to make sure nothing shifts. It is possible to specify Machine bolts, these are turned and accurately threaded.

A picture would give a much better appreciation of what is needed and how to do it.

One last thing, use some Coppereaze on the bolt/pin shank as if it rusts you would have to bang it out.

Clive

More than likely Beeswax paul.

Clive

Lard is useful for tapping hard materiels and Rape Oil is also good, this can be bought as cooking oil.

Clive

Use them dry.

Clive

Michael mentions a surface plate with slots cut across its surface at right angles to each other, its a, 'Lapping plate' and I have used one to dress up a surface plate.It was along tedious process and dirty to boot. Using diamond paste and some Kero. It was rotated in figures of eight and regularly reversed in position and motion.It cleaned up the surface and using auto collimation to check the surface it was found to be very flat and even.While doing it it showed all the pockets that were worn.The only thing was, it left it in a Matt surface condition.This made moving devices across it a bit slow.

Initially, the Lapping plate was used for dressing the steel standards of theodolites to get the tilting axis true.

Clive

On fabricated assemblies I always drill and pin with steel pins, the assembly is then is self supprting and needs no clamping at all.

Make allowances for after machining or filing and try to avoid pins where you may drill later. Pins need only to be 5 mm long and a semi loose fit.

Clive

If you have a vertical slide for your Myford it will have the same bracket as the crosslide, you could do a swop and see if there is a difference in the feel of the traverse.

One other thing, when you tighten up the bracket screws make sure the crosslide is screwed in towards the saddle and then tighten the two skt.hd screws. This will ensure that you have minimum deflection of the bracket and the spindle is centered.

Clive

Theres nothing like, 'Suck it and see'. Ive never had a problem with diamond wheels as long as you are not trying to hack off large portions of hard steel. Gently does it all the time. Watch a diamond polisher at work and see how careful they are to achieve the right pressure and time on the facets.

Clive

Hello Mark, I use 2 of them on my tool grinder. They give a superfine finish to cutting edges on both HSS and carbide tools.

I also use them to sharpen carbide end mills and like tools.

I think there is no advantage really with diamond wheels on HSS apart from cutting back damaged edges. Grade wise I think is D76 is the average type.

Always be careful you dont overload the wheel, it must cut freely and if you can smell it then its overloaded. The diamond wheel will remove metal very quickly so only move the tool about 1 thou at a time. Off hand cutting is not good as its hard to control the amount being taken off, better mounted and advanced in a known manner.

Most of the wheels advertised are suitable for use by the likes of us and seem reasonably priced. Most are Alu. backed and have a fairly long life.

I also have a metal disc with a coating but it is a little too aggressive for fine sharpening and is not truly flat.

Clive

I am sure brutsch Ruegger will have everything you need Will, try them for fine Metric dies.

By now, if you have been dealing with them you shauld ask for their book catalogue. It lists everything you will ever need.

Clive

I am in agreement with John, but I also think you might have some saddle play and it may be worth checking the saddle gib strip to see if the play is excessive. Check it up by the chuck and then check back by the tailstock and see if there is any difference in play. Most wear is up under the chuck or thereabouts. With a broader cutting edge on the tool it may give you a better finish and also hone the cutting edge, practice makes pefect. Are you turning using the top slide or traversing using the saddle, it makes a big difference.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 22/02/2013 17:24:14

OK Will, firstly keep the speed low as Ian has suggested. Further to this if you are cutting off pieces then use a saw of at least 1.5mm thickness as it is less likely to stray. Use almost flood lub/coolant as it clears the chips better. I have only ever split one saw and that was jammed and I tried to withdraw it while it was still switched on.

If you are cutting big solid sections be aware that the saw will make it shift off the work piece as its severed. Feed very slowly and only upcut, do not downcut as the diameter of the saw will have a lot of force at the cutting edge.

I have mentioned thickness and now I will mention diameter, I use a 150mm dia. saw and only use smaller dia. for slotting etc.

Take care, Clive

I think you are over engineering a bit Will, the bar will work fine.

If you can lay hands on a boring head you can mount your Ifanger Boring tool in it and do just as well.

I doubt you will need such a long bar for the job.

Clive