Member postings for Clive Hartland

The supplied white grit wheel for the Worden is fine for HSS tools, remember it is NOT a bulk metal remover. Any shaping of a HSS tool needs to be done on an offhand grinder first.

For Carbide tooling then buy the diamond wheel kit and make it up. Again only use minimal removal rates or it will burn or clog. Average feeds of 1/2 thou seem good.

Using collets, it is fine for shapening the ends of carbide milling cutters.

One thing I have found is that the Worden table is not square/ parallel to the wheel! and you should check the rake angle very carefully against the vertical face of the wheel. Using a rather small angle sticker to set the angle is not too good and i will later make and fit a larger more accurate with well maked angles for easier settings.

As an aside, i have found that the clamping screws tend to work loose for some reason on the bodies of the wheel arbors, anybody found this and have a solution?

I would also like to see a 4 facet drill jig that will work on the Worden.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 04/05/2013 12:43:56

You can buy high tensile studding in most threads from Cromwell.

Clive

Craig, all you have to do is cut/file and arc curve on both faces of the bearing block as it sits in the horns. This means when the axle is lifted on one side it follows that arc.

Regards side play, you need some side play and about a 1/64 will be enough. With the Garret you are making, its turning radius is quite large so you need some play to take up the curve on the track.

You need to take care that the side play does not let the linkages fowl other parts. Do not make it like a watch to extremely close tolerances, all the parts should rotate easily when assembled.

Clive

I would suggest you look at the locking screw that locks the pulley to the mainshaft. This is the screw you release to allow you to set the back gear in gear, it freewheels the pulley on the shaft.

Just today i had a rattle and the first thing i found was this screw had slipped out of engagement slightly. I of course assume the ML7 has the same arrangement as the ML10 I have.

Clive

I think I will go with a spacer and buy one of the 1" hole variety to get me over the present needs and then buy a 22mm one from further afield.

I just wanted to see what the forum thought about it, thank you for the responses.

Clive

22mm hole size slitting saws seem as rare as chickens teeth, plenty of 1" hole size in the diameter I want.

Has anyone adapted 1" to 22mm with a spacing ring? I do this with wood cutting saw blades with no apparent problems.

Clive

Fizzy, Reeves2000 have them in imperial sizes.

Clive

Thank you lads, I have now ordered one from Kwils information.

Clive

I have just reallized you are asking for a 1/10 scale model of this gun. That is a big model for a Model engineer to take on with a home workshop.

Going back on the cost, I can see this costing upwards of £15000 and a time scale of 6 months or more at full time working. To create this model will require extensive research and much dedication, even a hands on look at the real thing if there is one with known whereabouts. At this scale everything will have to work, elevating mech. and the recuperators and of course the Breech mechanism. To create the locking breech will require gear work.

JasonB's assessment of the wheels alone needs large machine tools and access to a hearth or rolling machines of heavy duty type.

Clive

I will try Tracy tools again, As you say European tool firms will have them. I will try Brutsch|Ruegger.

Clive

Yes, a bevel cutter 45 Deg would be fine. Correctly called, 'Inverted dove tail cutter'

mscdirect, the prices make my eyes hurt !!

I did have one but it has dissapeared. A very desirable item and I am sure someone has filched it.

Clive    There is one on Ebay but is needing bidding for.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 16/04/2013 22:04:55

I have been trying to purchase a reverse dovetail milling cutter but cannot find any of about 15mm diameter.

Do any members have a suggestion?

Clive

Bob, put up a picture of the field piece so that an assessment can be made. For information the 8" Howitzer had steel wheels like a steam engine with radial spokes and two recuperators over the barrel. It also had a hoist to lift the 8" projectiles into the breech and was manually rammed. That means that it was either bag charge or a short cartridge obturation. Compared to other guns it had a fairly short barrel.

This was a big heavy gun and had a considerable detachment of Gunners to serve it.

I concur with Jason B that it will take many hours of detailed work and ability to bring it to conclusion.

Clive

It seems you posted as I was writing Bob, so duplication of detail.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 16/04/2013 21:35:28

Thank you for the answers so far and to you Harold for responding so quickly. It looks like a 90 gear will do most of what I will want.

I will look in the dividing book and read that part about the gear sets for other divisions. Thank you all.

Clive

I am well into making a Harold Hall indexing jig and would like to ask which gear and tooth number would be best for all round general work.

I have all the standard Myford gears for the ML10 plust the conversion gears to cut Imperial threads.

I am thinking perhaps a 60 or 90 tooth gear, but would be interested in a general concensus.

Clive

I have had no problem with my Dro's on my mill. I have with the Vernier calipers though.

Simple background heating that will keep a small rise in Temperature will solve lots of problems in the workshop. There are heaters that are called, 'Black heaters' plug in and forget. Fitted with a simple thermostat they will come on when required and switch off when a suitable heat is reached.

Me, Im lucky, my garage has a radiator on the house central heating.

Clive

One thought to bear in mind is that there are Tolerances and a lot of people spend a disproportionate time chasing something that bluntly is not there. The machine is not made perfect and it will have innate errors which are within the makers specs. If you then try to better these tolerances then you are in for a long tedious journey.

Using a spirit level to level in x and y and then doing a turning test is sufficient as far as I can see. Think on and try to remember when you last turned a length of metal over 200mm. Yes, you turned the end but not the length and over short lengths the machine will be fine.

Further consider a large lathe some 5 mtr bed length, its weight and mass are almost self levelling but you still set x and y level and that would suffice for most work. As things get bigger so do the tolerances!

If, we as engineers spent more time making rather than testing then a lot more work would get done. Having initially set up my Lathe I continue to use it happily and would only worry if I had to move it again. In fact it does all I ask within all aspects that I require of it.

Industrial machines are another matter entirely and may now need more care in setting down and alignment as more is asked of them. Not withstanding that they work at much higher speeds and are much more powerful and rigid. Continous high accuracy work is expected of them and after all they must make a return on initial cost.

Model engineers are not high production as we do not have the time and after all it is a hobby and not a job, except in some cases.

So, just set the machine up then use it to the best of your ability to make your dream machines.

Clive

If you are going to go to all that trouble of using a compressor and storing air then you can use a DC electric motor to drive the Loco and bypass all the problems and tow a battery.

No pressure vessel and no test and bags of power. Discuss!

Clive

This is a good idea, beats leaving all the items sitting on the bench to get lost.

Most re-sealable plastic boxes come in sets and are quite cheap. Ice cream boxes are free after you eat the ice cream but get in there before the wife gets them.

The takaway cartons do seem a bit flimsy and I doubt would survive a drop from a bench full of metal parts.

My personal choice are the racking bins and I pinch one every chance I get, all I need now is the backboard to hang them on, one drawback is that the dust gets in them. Thought, pinch all the bins and they will throw out the backboard and I will get it that way!

If you are looking for decent small sized containers with a screw lid made of plastic, bee keeping supply firms sell them in 1lb size, they come out at about 38pence each. These will hold about 200 eighth inch rivets. They are squat jam jar size.

Clive Hartland

You will need two collimators to adjust a pair of Binos. The two collimators themselves need to be collimated parallel and have the same focus. One body will have a reticule that is a vertical and horizontal slit. The other will be a simple black cross that will be smaller in width than the slits in the other one.

The is a need of a solid mount for the Binos and the ability to pivot the bodies seperately.

The Binos mounted on the clamp and each body focussed on the individual reticules. (The principle of the collimation is that the rays of light going into and coming out of the collimators is parallel. This is called Solar Focus)

If the Bino images do not coincide then the Binos are out of collimation and will have an error of Convergence or divergence or supravergence, there will be a combination of these faults and adjustments are by eccentric rings around the OG's or adjusting screws that move the prisms.

Swinging the Bino body around the pivot will tell which body to adjust as the images will move as you do it. This is not a job for a Tyro or a learner and it needs experience and knowledge.

Bear in mind that a lot of Binos have glued components and are non adjustable, that is they are adjusted by the maker and then the seats of the prisms are glued forever. The lenses the same.

There are several different methods of Bino collimation and field adjustments are not really possible unless with what is called a 'Bar Collimator', but it is not as accurate as a double tube bino collimator.

Another is a large lens that is bigger in diameter than the width of the binos. This is then used as a field lens and is quite accurate.

The effect of the errors in Binos causes headaches and eye strain when used for a period of time. Much better to use only one body if they are faulty.

Clive

Regards using a Laser pointer, the Laser will go through an optical system in any position in the diameter of the objective and as such is not a lot of use. You still have to view the optical system to adjust and I do not reccomend any exposure to any laser light. Lasers themselves need collimating, the laser tube being physically shifted about in another tube (Body) and  adjusted in both x and y planes and also adjusted by rotation of the body longitudenly. Again not for the Tyro or uninitiated users.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 21/03/2013 21:57:55