Member postings for Michael Gilligan

Given that the original post was about opening-up the bore in a pulley ... from 10mm drilled, to 11mm bored ... that does seem irrelevant.

MichaelG.

Martin,

No ... the hole-boring version doesn't cut at all on the sides, only on the front [rather like a counterbore]

The tool is a "running fit" in the the finished hole, which is why it's self-aligning.

... The D is just over half the diameter of the tool; which puts the long edge above centre.

MichaelG.

Martin,

I should have been more specific; because there are two different tools both commonly known as a D-Bit. One, as you say, acts like a reamer ... The other has no rake or clearance on the side, and it cuts only on the front. [i.e. it is somewhere between a Drill and a Boring Tool]

Sometimes known as a Cannon Drill; once started, it is self-aligning and is particularly good for deep holes.

... There is a lengthy discussion about the differences, on this thread.

MichaelG.

[on this forum] I am sure that someone will correct me if I am wrong ...

Surely the "right" tool for the job is a D-bit. This is the ultimate incarnation of a boring bar with "the biggest possible diameter, and the smallest possible tool-tip protrusion"

The end-mills and slot-drills, suggested earlier, work in a similar way; but with a reduced core diameter.

MichaelG.

The good folks at Leica came up trumps.

Model 1130, completed 31-March-1966

... and they have sent me a PDF copy of the original [German] instruction booklet.

Amazing support!

MichaelG.

I've just skimmed through this thread, and agree wholeheartedly with Ian S C

Poly Vee belts are amazingly efficient; being very flexible [in bending] but non-stretch. They are widely used in drives as vatious as Car Alternators and Tumble Driers ... a splendid piece of Production Engineering.

Perhaps the best bit is that Pulleys are very easy to make in the home workshop:

Grind the profile for a single Vee on the end of a HSS Parting Tool blank.

Mount the Tool dead square in the Lathe , just as you would for parting-off. Then plunge cut to the correct depth ... Retract ... Move by the "Pitch" of the Poly ... and repeat as many times as you need.

A positive Depth-Stop is a great help, and you need to take care getting the Pitch right, but it really is that easy; and the required cuts are not deep.

Use a hard Aluminium Alloy for the Pulleys and the tool should stay sharp.

MichaelG.

Neil,

Yes the acid can cause the crack to propogate, and the process seems to escalate exponentially.

The mechanism is known as Stress Corrosion, and you will find an excellent article on Wikipedia.

... Sorry for your Loss.

MichaelG.

Clive,

Thanks for that advice ... I will give it a try.

MichaelG.

Ray,

Good to hear from you.

Yes, I have a keen amateur interest in Microscopy, and intend to use the Microtome. I have been looking for somthing like this one for a while now.

I am especially interested to try the 3D imaging technique, whereby a "stack" of sections are individually photographed and the specimen reconstructed digitally ... rather like MRI scanning, but destructive!

... I will send you a Personal Message later today

Sorry about the missing photo in my original posting; it worked when I posted it, but the link from this forum is now broken. ... The link posted later should work OK.

MichaelG.

For anyone curious about the subject ...

This is a superb document by "American Optical", explaining the principles.

MichaelG.

I think you will find that is to do with the Cookies ...

To comply with recent EU legislation; the site requests your explicit permission to use Cookies.

If you have not given that permission, then "Remember Me" is not an option.

MichaelG.

Thanks Bob

That looks a very useful site.

MichaelG.

Not as yet ... since I am not a member of the Yahoo! groups.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

MichaelG.

I have just bought a Jung Rotary Microtome, on ebay.

Similar to this:

Image borrowed from  http://www.recyclab.com/

It's a long-shot, but ...Does anyone have an instruction manual, or preferably a service manual, that they could share as PDF.

Many thanks

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 13/06/2012 23:03:14

Out of curiousity, I have just tried this on the iPad

Simply changing the preference "button" did not have any immediate effect.

I needed to Log Out of the site, then sign back in, before the change took effect.

Hope that helps

MichaelG.

" ... something very close to a m6 thread ..."

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious: That would presumably be 0BA.

MichaelG.

With the better pictures ... I agree that it does look more like a press for setting eyelets, or press-studs, into fabric or leather.

A handy device, easily adaptable.

MichaelG.

Ziggar,

It looks very much like the tool for press-fitting the plastic "glasses" to watches.

... If so, it would normally come with a set of dished brass "holders" and a set of rubber "pushers".

MichaelG.

Put "watch glass press" into Google, and you will see what I mean.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/05/2012 23:07:30

I can't identify it ... but it certainly looks a useful piece of kit !

MichaelG.