Member postings for geoff walker 1

Jason I would be interested to know how you fixed the cross head guides in place. Not so much the actual fixings but how did you line everything up accurately.

Both guides have to be set accurately in the same vertical plane and also the centre line of each guide must be on the centre line of the cylinder.

I have thoughts on how to do it but would be interested in your method.

Geoff

Missed the EDMES club meeting tonight as it was the Cricket Club annual dinner. I got a cup for being the most valuable non-player (mending all the mowers)

I know the feeling, I also get a mention at our CC dinner for similar services rendered. No cup but I always get a few free pints.

Thanks Jim and you're welcome.

Here is another rotary table photo which shows how I machined a shoulder on the inside of the flanges.

The shoulder is for the hardwood cleading to sit on. The packing pieces are also hardwood.

I turned up some hardwood rings which I then split into segments and then jb welded to the cylinder. These were leveled at the same setting to the same height as the shoulders.

Geoff

Maybe I should drill & pin the bottom end shaft...

Well if you were asking me George, pin them. Belt and braces job!!!!

I have some 1/16" panel pins which mike up at 0.061" perfect with a 1/16" drill and drop of loctite.

Nice work George

Geoff

Hi Jim, (Nic)

I just noticed your earlier post 1/10 and see you have started the Muncaster oscillator. Good idea to have the frames laser cut, I know what you mean they were somewhat tedious to make, sawing filing etc.

This is how I started machining the cylinder casting.

1. I skimmed one end of the casting so it was reasonably square to the core hole. Then set the face plate up as shown in the next photo. The hole in the strap was drilled and bored in situ and is the same size as the spigot on the front of the casting, the pivot spigot.

The spigot fits snugly in the hole and the casting is clamped to the angle plate as shown in the next photo. With the other spigot running as true as possible, the trunnion spigot, just take a light skim of the diameter, the end and also centre drill the end. don't skim the inner port face at this setting.

Now hold the trunnion spigot in a collet or a grip true chuck and centre drill the pivot spigot. Using a half tailstock centre support the casting and skim the end of the spigot and also true up the diameter. Now hold the work between centres similar to the set up in the last photo, skim the trunnion spigot again and lightly face square the inner port face. Next set the casting up on an angle plate, port face down, and bore to size, 20mm diameter. also at this setting machine the casting to its final length 46mm ensuring that each end is an equal distance from the centre line of the trunnion.

Mount the work between centres again and turn the trunnion to the correct diameter and face the inner port face so it is 19mm from the centre of the bore.

.The cylinder flanges can be turned to size with casting mounted on a 20mm mandrel as shown in the next photo.

.The brass or gun metal disc is jb welded to the inner port face.

Hope this is of some help Jim Geoff

Hi Paul, nice work on the cylinder as Jason said that's a good start.

I'm following Jason's building methods but scaling his sizes down to approximately 3/4 full size.

As I didn't have a suitable piece of cast iron in stock for the cylinder so I decided to treat myself to a 10v cylinder which is just about the right size at 19mm stroke and bore. Got that machined up and have made the valve chest to Jason.s design. Also made some progress on the bearing blocks which were tricky to make as they are quite small.

Still looking for a 3" flywheel and may use the 10v one which I have had for some time.

Jason I took note of your comments in the latest M.E. regarding the use of B.M.S. for the crosshead guides. It was a good point I assume the the cold roll steel is less stressed and thus not as liable to distort.

Once again some good machining ideas in the latest issue in particular the way you made the crankshaft.

Geoff

What would be the options for a spiral flywheel in the UK Jason

Good luck with that rocking I can't find one at the usual suppliers.

I thought Reeves had one but can't see it on their website

Geoff

Phil

For your first question

I turned up some hardwood rings for my last engine. These were then split and jb welded to the casting and then levelled to the correct height with the rotary table set up shown in the second photo.

Geoff

Hi Neil,

Thank you,

I see that Axminster have a lathe which looks very similar to the ARC SC4 lathe. It has a much nicer colour, a free set of lathe tools and it costs about £500 more...........unless of course I'm missing something.

Anyone else got a Sieg SC4 lathe.........opinions please, many thanks

Geoff

I am considering buying the SIEG SC4 lathe. Are there any owners here who could voice their opinions of this machine please?.

Hi All,

I'm not the original Geoff who posted the first message, (copied above), in this thread nearly six years ago.

It has been 4 years since the last post so could I revive the original question as I would imagine there are now more owners and I am giving serious consideration to buying one from ARC eurotrade.

I know Neil has one and also Andrew Whale, anyone else.

Unfortunately I live a long way from ARC's headquarters so calling there to view one is not an option just yet.

I live in WA3 north Warrington, any North West owners.

Geoff

Hi Jason,

Just reading the latest M.E.

I notice that you have again used the boring head in a very creative manner. This time to shape the exterior of the stuffing box bosses on the valve chest. clever stuff, I really must get a boring head for my sx2, looks to be a really useful piece of kit.

I wiil be interested to see how you made the cross head guides and then aligned them accurately. I have a idea how to do it but will wait and see how you have it done before I order some stock.

Enjoying the articles J, thank you

Geoff

My muncaster frame 3/4 size

geoff

Hi Jason and All,

I've had my eye on this engine for for quite some time so when I heard you had a series of articles in M.E. magazine I was naturally interested to see what building and machining methods you would use.

As far as the size was concerned I always favoured making the engine close to the original dimensions in Muncasters book. As you will know this was a 3/4" stroke and bore engine and is around 3/4 of the size of your 24mm bore design. I just prefer the smaller scale, something you can place on the palm of your hand.

The photo below is of the completed framework. I will be making the top end parts next, bearing pedestals, bearings crankshaft, crank etc., all to your building design but more or less 3/4 of all the sizes. I shall retain the original throw 9.5mm and probably the original bore 19mm (3/4".

I have to say I was very sceptical of your "flexed" taper turning method, did you get that from a textbook? Not a problem, works fine but I left the spigot off the top and drilled and tapped for a 4 BA screw.

The base is laminated from M.S. as you suggested the parts being rivetted together with 1/8" csk. head rivets, just like we used in school metalwork lessons all those years ago.

Photo in the next post, not uploaded yet.

Geoff

Hi Jim

Lovely job mate, there's a lot going on with that engine, and only a year to make. I wouldn't be halfway there

Well done

Geoff

Hi All,

I've started making this engine, slow progress but always is with me.

When I have the frame assembled I'll post some pics.

Finally managed to get a copy of M.E. 4619, in Halifax of all places. WHS had a few copies, also MEW and EIM.

I was curious Jason as to how you got such a neat radius on the top of the bearing cap. So simple really as shown in photo 15.

Any of you chaps from Halifax, my first visit, a fine town, graceful old market, classic victorian town hall and of course the increasingly famous Piece hall. A beer festival in the latter this weekend, should be fun as long as all behave themselves.

Geoff

Hi Jason,

Thanks for your reply.

I was mistaken, as you say, it's 2 and 3 which are rigid and form the bell crank.

With such small parts, I believe the pivot pin is 3/16" diameter, is there a taper pin and taper reamer small enough to pin the parts together? If not I imagine you would use small carpenters moulding pins?

Geoff

Hi Malcolm,

Thank you, I forgot about Keith Appleton, good video.

Thanks again

Geoff

Hi All.

I found this diagram on the internet. I'm NOT 100% sure but I think the reversing gear below is for a stuart 10v.

OK, the pivot pin 5 passes through a hole in the bracket 4.

On one end of the pin is attached the lever 2 and the other end the linkage 1.

By releasing the knurled lock nut 11 you can raise or lower the lever to move sideways "the "part with slot in" 1, to select either forward or reverse rotation of the engine.

As I see it for this mechanism to work 1 and 2 must be rigidly fixed to the pivot pin while the pin is free to pivot in the bracket hole 4?

Assuming I'm correct how are 1 and 2 secured on the pivot pin?

Geoff

Looking good lainchy post some more info when you can

The spring strength is largely a matter of feel not to strong or there will be to much friction between the oscillating parts. Would be good if you could find somewhere to try a few to get the right feel

Have a look at dodwells posts when you can. From his first simple wobble he has made some really attractive models something for you to aspire to

Geoff

Hi John,

Not just me then who dislikes the dickson setup. I guess mine will end up on e ebay in due course.

Seen those pictures before, hadn't noticed there was no split in the holder.

They/it looks well made.

You should make some with an angled tool slot. Very useful gives a little extra reach over the end of the top slide.

Geoff