Member postings for Enough!

That looks pretty good on a quick peek. I'll follow it up tomorrow.

Thanks, Michael !

210/60 °C is nominal (according to Cura) yet I have some black that will string badly at 200°C and up. 190 seems good for it. I don't think I've ever printed over 210°C. (Of course, one machine's 210°C isn't necessarily another's).

I've seen and printed some calibration models on Thingiverse but many of them take several hours to print. I was looking to come up with something small that could be printed quickly one after the other at different temperatures to give some basic temperature guidance for specific filament batches. I don't expect it to be totally definitive (even if that's possible) but some starting guidance would be helpful.

I'd also prefer something modelled locally so I have CAD files with a feature-history rather than someone else's STL that I can't modify.

Edited By Bandersnatch on 07/05/2020 02:01:14

Talk to Apple. Maybe they'll make you a digital version.

There has been a number of comments over the months that ideal printing temperatures for PLA (and other materials probably) vary with supplier, batch, colour part configuration .... and possibly day of the week and whether there's an "R" in the month.

It has me wondering whether it's possible to come up with a small part that could be printed at different extruder temperatures when starting a new reel. Possibly multiple copies of the same part with the different temperatures printed on, to avoid confusion when comparing the resultant parts.

I wonder if that's useful and what such a test part should look like. Ideally, it should be something that could be printed in 5 or 10 minutes.

Hmm .... so are you also one of those people who think, since the year is actually 365.25 (rounded) days long and to correct that we add a day every 4 years, that after 2 years we'll be 1/2-day out and midnight ought to occur at midday?

Mick, now that I re-read it (several times) I think you're probably right and it is referring to the micro-usb.

If I knew which side was the bottom* I could answer that

(or left/right)

Edited By Bandersnatch on 04/05/2020 17:22:36

Actually, I read it as being mostly about the standard USB connector at the other end of the wire ... the one that looks the same on both sides and doesn't go in on the first try; doesn't go in when reversed; then finally goes in when you reverse it again.

My favourite Dilbert was this one from about 20 years ago:

Edited By Bandersnatch on 04/05/2020 16:27:23

Isn't that due to the reversal of the observer - facing North instead of South?

Edited By Bandersnatch on 03/05/2020 18:35:20

Mine is simple: a block that is tightened in the vice jaws with a tang that projects through the gap in the base and into a table slot. I then load the whole shebang against one side of the slot while I tighten the mounting screws.

Mounts in seconds, is plenty good enough for anything I do - and I don't have to clock.

Sounds like the early days of microprocessors when purchased source-code (assembler or machine language) was printed like that to avoid photocopying and passing along.

Is it just me whom this strikes a chord with ?

OK, Raymond, thanks - found it.

For anyone else, the link is:

**LINK**

Edited By Bandersnatch on 30/04/2020 19:38:21

Do you have a direct link? All I see is a 30-day "free trial" and a page with the regular student signup

Edited By Bandersnatch on 30/04/2020 18:31:51

Wouldn't you know it .... just when you're locked in and can't get out to the opticians.

I'll leave now.

... er .... well .... so does mine now you come to mention it. I had this fixation that the z-axis worked differently to the others.

Put it down to age, addled brain and forced isolation.

I'm curious about this since it was my (possibly quite wrong) belief that printers home the z-axis (after homing x and y using the limit switches) by reaching down and touching the build plate; then withdrawing a few steps and approaching slowly to confirm.

I don't see how it would do this if the x and Y homes are off the build plate. I presume it can be done, since you obviously have.

Are you using a VPN which will munge your IP address?

.... but they "May not post to Canada". Knew there'd be a catch.

I'm speechless that someone would subvert this genuinely decent thread to push their own politically-biased agenda.