Member postings for Jon

Not to mention CO2 produced in the building of each electric cars battery is equivalent to driving a petrol powered car around for 8 years!

Quoted mileage from full charge is never anything like, knock off cold weather, wet and night use may see 1/3 drop the norm and thats about 5 months of the year.
Ok for those that can charge daily and do limited mileage.

Lastly take the exorbitant electric cars cost and knock off that cost in electric used to do mileage then factor in new battery every few years approx £5000.

Cmon take a business trip to south coast 200 mile each way. Petrol and diesel there in 3hrs non stop. Electric you wont make it needing at least half the capacity charge again just to get there, that trip is now well over 4 hrs and extra hours labour lost for each employee per journey.

All i can see is AA and RAC called out to boost charge vehicles stranded.

As is nothing adds up but can have fun in petrol and diesels still. Mines £120 tax and an hybrid turbo

Tar Nick i used to buy and fit Escort stuff to my old Mark 3 Capri including double width anti roll bar bushes, Sachs strut inserts gas, track rods ends, track control arms etc. Rack was different and only trouble had was the spring rates and supposed free lengths to give ride height required.

From memory had to go 8" free length for RS Escort. should have given -1" ride height. It gained 2 1/4"

Gearbox, prop and axle was German coarse spline. English and the 5 sp were a lot finer.
Took it round the clock twice on two engines and just about everything else.

Used to use hydrochloric to clean aluminium with, proper Jekyl and Hyde. Anodising was in the workshop with sulphurics and hydrochloric etc. Never had rust in 4 years of doing it until 2006 when the large tank broke, gallons every where at 21%.

Previous lathe 1ph 1 1/2hp 240v used to blow 13A fuses 3 out of every 5 startups, no load fed from a 20A dedicated supply. Used to buy fuses by the hundred.
Likewise both 3hp compressors throw the 20A MCB.

Wasnt the Capri 1 same running gear as the Anglias. Capri 2 and 3 was the same as Escorts interchangeable.

CN36 185X60X13 standard tyres on a 79 German made Capri 2 S, not the best for stopping but decent, Yoko A008 awesome in all weather when they were UK road legal. Coarse spline prop and gearbox used to wave by by to the 3ltr Capris and had the edge on the 2.8 Colognes baby used to handle as well unlike any other.

Always wanted a genuine Escort Twin Cam could have got plenty around £400 in 1980 but wanted £400 3rd party. Did refuse a Cooper S in 82 it had seat runners welded further back £225.
Just think what both would be worth nowadays

Common knowledge RWD with power on induces over steer controllably.

Common knowledge FWD with power on induces under steer and no control.

The thing about Mythbusters is wouldnt have been done in fairness. In general FWD for most is the quickest whilst theres grip, outside that forget it. Now theres a limit with RWD where you have to go way above any common road users skills and forcably get that back end out to see gains as much as 40% quicker than FWD. By that i dont mean drifting though it is controled.

Small fry bought up as a Brummy, moved to Telford and got mixed Liverpudlian/Brummy lingo, then Walsall in the Black Country, then best of all an entirely different language in Sedgley where Gornal was only 1 mile away.
The Gornal language was still pure you would be talking quite normal to some one born and raised there then out the blue throw in "Hes as fat as a Tunkey pig" to "And they'l be putting the pig on the wall to watch the band go by" "I hate you" "I love you"

Seen plenty on ebay from £10 upwards and no cheap plastic.

1993 would be a proper English build up Heckmondike, newer ones the last 20 years plus certain parts if not all are chinese. So go for a quality M300 Made in England.

Brian yes when he can be bothered to return your call, weeks later----.
4 inverters later still using it, shame about the others cost me £1600.

Chris nearly went that way Oct 2017 then looked at their exorbitant prices, so much so bought motor from Scotland, Mitsubishi from Gloucester region and pod with the extravagant £20 odd delivery and still saved £80 after paying £25 for a filter.
They do not and will not set the invertor up for use.

Good idea but i havent any room to do that on mine. Cables and Z axis dro in the way.
Its been 9 years since the transfer box broke on Super Lux and not paying £244 back then for the privilege minus motor.

I wouldnt worry about having no instructions a 5 year old child can work it out.

This is one difference in cheap scales 0.145mm error on initial take up. Means carriage moves 0.145mm without the cheapy registering!

I wouldnt waste your dosh on the RF45's from the various sources theyre well over £2k now, limited in speed and more importantly made to a price in asia. So in argument to the Bridgeport i would sooner have a good old machine than a junk new one.
You wont like the price of the parts either in 2010 £244 for transfer gearbox (Super Lux) for the elevation whole machine cost £910 in 2004 now well over £2300.
More alarming the secondhand prices of these are that of brand new only a few years back. So use machine, wear it out which wont take a lot and sell for price bought for.
In all fairness its brought the prices of Bridgies up for good reason as any other quality product that is now no longer made.

I would go for a Bridgeport or Korean made clone.

Thats exactly the same as my 50 year old Harrison M300 apart from the slanted front tray and colour. Even has the carriage hand wheel the Harrison way. Theres also a lot of other asian build lathes with spindle start.
Earlier machines had clutches with lever top of head stock, much prefer that.

David, just the job in an emergency!
Or equally when starting up, just have to watch what happens rather than do something about it.
Most vfd conversion/disasters are similar

Or you could buy a universal 2 axis and a mill 2 axis readout.
Using universal for both Z.

All my Sino glass 3 on mill and 1 on lathe plus the magnetic are still going 9 1/2 years on pro.

Have seen the Indian made EMS there pretty good.

Correct Duncan hydraulic oil comes in various viscosities and is used in cars namely power steering. Most modern petrol cars run 5W/30W equivalent to ISO 32 when cold.
Hydraulic goes well in to the 100W think 150W where older car axles used EP80 or 90.

Slides and beds much prefer Hydraulic 32, you can feel the drag with Hydraulic 68.
Gearboxes hydraulic 68 and flows more like a 20W when warm.
Best bit is its the cheapest of most oils around £17 a gallon delivered from Smith and Allen, must get some more 32.

You can even get Anti Wear Hydraulic called AWD32 or 68 etc.

Why not use 01/Silver steel which will be straight and annealed.

Dont think anyone has the capability to anneal that already hardened and tempered spring wire, think your fighting a lost cause.
You say it dont need rehardening so whats the point in using a weak spring steel hardened. Will need to anneal the whole length required to avoid brittleness.

Other thing to consider is neighbours and the noise putting it outside.

Do have a 5.5kw Transwave rotary kept as backup last used in 2010. Mines as loud as a compressor under minimal load, put in some boxes could amplify the noise and vibration. Certainly would not want to have that thing of mine outdoors, neighbours would be phoning the council.

Quite true a coarse compression knurl usually adds 0.3 to 0.37mm to the dimension. Done another 18 today.
For those that dont know the two knurls force material by compression and it has to go some where.

If your just doing straight conventional knurling on bar it wont matter unless it specifically states a final dimension.
End or cylindrical knurls will gain in size and leave a burr thats easily sanded off.
End and cylindrical knurls it wont matter just put a chamfer on first.
You can even knurl with tool set at 45 degrees, just judge the finish by eye and sand the burrs off frnt face and cylinder.

A proper grind wont leave a burr, worst case you could wipe it off being sub 3 thou cut.
If your grinding away coarse just removing depth that will leave a burr.

Have to admit i do use the HSS chinese dovetail cutters at least a couple of days a week pro.

If its £10 delivered it must be something like 18 or 20mm theyre good on 6082 and will do well in excess of 40 metres as a general guide.
Equally use the 3/8"/10mm a lot, same again 10's of metres.

Just chop out or slot out material first and use cutter purely to cut the dovetail/s to size.

Good knurl will not have flats, thats a sign of imperfection and easier to do.

Poor tuition, if knurls too grippy for delicate hands choose a finer knurl and do it right.

Much like chequering, English is pointed except Greener.