Member postings for AdrianR

Hmm, just been reading about zinc (ZDDP), it too can corrode yellow metals.

I did contact Warco about their headstock oil. They say it is suitable for the BH900 but wont tell me the ISO or SAE, so I am not too keen to put it in the mill. Plus it is quite expensive.

So these two, including delivery only £4 difference in cost; Lubron zinc free or Morris liquimatic which also comes in a nice old fashioned tin. I think the tin wins, order placed.

I used to instal XRay machines, we used M16 chemifix. The ones in the glass ampules with a stud were the best. We used a template, so the positioning was good, but still only within a couple of mm rebar permitting. This did not matter too much as the holes in the machine were 20mm dia.

The thought of trying to get 8 M12 bolts accurate enough for the M12 holes was bothering me. Now I know how stable the lathe is, I think I can just use M8

I was looking at the type with the fixing tool, I have used them before, I always preferred the type with the spring loaded expanding shell. You can always get them back out, and expand a lot which is good for over size/bad holes.

Adrian

One of the best things I ever bought were a pair of scruffs builders trousers. The built in knee pads and the flap pockets and tool lops are super useful. I use them all the time, from building to gardening. I would also recommend braces not a belt, much better for carrying a full load of tools.

Steel toe cap boots and trainers. Great for shifting heavy things e.g. plywood just stand it on your toes and walk it along. Also protects the toes when kneeling.

An old EPNS tea spoon kept in your pocket. From opening paint tins, scraping swarf out of awkward places to planting up seedlings.

I have been reading about the effects of sulphur used in the EP additives on yellow metal bearings. Are hydraulic oils free from sulphur and compatible with yellow metal bearings?

Adrian

Well I tried the lathe on the pedestal with the machine feet in the exiting holes. Two finger push at the right frequency had it rocking, good job it was still tied to the engine hoist. Remove the machine feet it takes a both arms shove to even get it wobbling.

I can't tie it to a wall is as it is in the middle of the room, it makes the best use of space. I had hoped to not need to bolt it down as It gives me the option to move it if I get its position wrong.

If I bolt it down, do I need to use M12 (the size of the holes) or would M8/M10 be OK. Trying to get 8 holes that accurate in concrete will be not fun.

Adrian

Thanks for posting this, I had never even considered the height of the bench for the pillar drill. In my old workshop it is so high it is a stretch to change belts. I need to build a bench for my mill, maybe I can just make it longer and have the drill on it too. A new meaning to a Mill Drill I guess

Adrian

Thanks guys, I think I will put the lathe on the pedestal without the machine feet to see how out of true it is. Then decide to either give up with the machine feet and shim, or use Davids method.

Adrian

I am installing a Warco BH900 on it's Warco pedestal using machine feet. So far I have not put the lathe on the pedestal as I am not sure if it is stable enough. If I lean on the front or back of the pedestal it topples over.

The holes in the pedestal are only about 175mm apart and the pedestal is 425mm.

Has anyone installed a BH900 or Chester Craftsman on machine feet?

Adrian

Wow what a coincidence, that looks just like the one I bought

Excellent ISO 68 SAE 20 is the same oil as the lathe needs.

I was thinking of Lodexol if I can find it in a smaller quantity or Liquimatic

Anyone know another?

It is Chinese, the original manufacturer/model is ZX-16 It was sold by Engineers Tool Room as the BMD-16

In the manual for the mill i have just bought it specifies "No 20 machine oil" Could this be SAE 20W? would that be a suitable oil for a mill gearbox?

Adrian

Bought a Warco BH600 lathe and Engineer Tool Room BMD-16 mill today. Perfect weather and despite my worries the moving it went very smoothly.

Or for browny points with the misses, they are great for getting the crud off the back of diamonds in rings. Just dont let her catch you using hers to do it.

I think I was being dumb, of course black is hot rolled, haven't a clue why I thought different.

Ah drills running backwards, that reminds me. I had to drill a hole in a CI soil pipe for a new sink. I bought a hole saw and started. Pilot went in easy, but the saw just wouldnt cut, pushing hard made it cut slowly. After a long time I stopped for a cupper. Looking at the worn the teeth I realised something. The blade had been welded on backwards. Flipping the drill into reverse and the hole was finished in seconds.

I was taught to not oil, just wipe clean with your hand.

If the problem has just started happening, then something must have changed. Have you bought new oil? Damage/dirt in the taper? Temperature changes; Are your tapers colder than the mill? Is the spindle bearing getting warm? Are your cutters blunt so you are using more pressure to cut?

Adrian

That is an image I really dont want seared into my imagination.

In the UK thongs (flip flops) are not foot ware, imagine backless buggie smugglers

I have the same timber on my one too, so I guess it is standard.

Do you have any links to suppliers please, looking around I can see bright and black.